'95 Auto-Transmission Problems

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ophoff95auto

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I have a '95 automatic transmission full-sized Bronco, and in the middle of the interstate going up a steep hill today the transmission decided not to grip at all on Drive, 2nd, or 1st. I still have Park, and Reverse, but no power to the three forward gears. I don't know if this is a transmission problem, or a shifting problem. I've had shifting problems before, but thought they were fixed. Any suggestions? I don't know much about Broncos, and would really appreciate your expertise.

 

miesk5

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yo Q,

Welcome to the Zone!

Is the E4OD's TCIL (OD switch-LED) blinking?

Check for Code(s) first;

a Self Test by my buddy and Bronco driver, BroncoJoe19 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

heat the engine up; idle until temp gauge is in normal range you usually see

and wwhen it warms up; shift thru all gears incl Reverse anyway.

Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic)

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to

KOEO

& KOER

Have you done the basic checks, such as fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse, and fluid condition; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick., etc?

BTW, have you or any shop done any mods or work with a connection to the brake circuit, or that electrically interfaces with the brake lamps in any manner?

-----

Check fuses visually and for 12v

see fuses 13, 17

Diagram in a 94 Bronco & F-Series (see if you have the diagram on block cover underside, but this is prob the same

bronco-1995-e4od--pg-301.gif]fuses94gas.jpg[/url]

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Power Distribution Box Diagram in a 95by my pal here, Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone ForumsMiesk5 Note; Box is Located under the hood on the drivers side fenderwell, on driver's side of the air cleaner housing

Check **** Fuse L & P

E4OD Wiring Diagram in a 95 from EVTM

e4od-schematic.jpg

Source: by Ford via SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net

=================

Some possibilities, but don't buy or do anything related to these yet:

NO 2-3 Upshift TSB 98-16-7 in 90-94 Bronco, Econoline, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-53 Source: by Ford via Chilton "...Some vehicles may exhibit a no 2-3 upshift condition. This may be the result of cross-leakage caused by distortion of the control valve body separating plate. Perform diagnosis and, if necessary, replace the control valve body separating plate. Refer to the following Service Pocedure for details. Perform diagnostics as outlined in the appropriate Service Manual. Refer to Figure 1 for the models affected. If condition still exists, remove the control valve body separating plate. Wipe excess oil. Examine the separating plate for deformation in the intermediate band servo area, Figure 2. THE SEPARATING PLATE GASKETS MUST BE REMOVED TO SEE THE DISTORTION. If distorted, replace the separating plate with a new Control Valve Body Separating Plate (F4TZ-7A008-A). Install new Separating Plate Gaskets (F4TZ-7C155-A and F4TZ-7D100-A) and a new Oil Pan Gasket (E9TZ-7A191-A)..." see site for figure

=========================

Vehicle Can't be Shifted Out of PARK, Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 on 94-95 Bronco & Trucks Source: by Ford via Chilton See P

wire harness may be pinched/shorted on steering column support behind the dash where the 14401 wire assy may come in contact w/a sharp edge on dash panel wall, I had same short here too & caused E4OD's TCIL (OD switch-LED) to blink like a friggin pia;

wires pinched @ brake/tail lights, my 96's stop/turn/tail lights wires were almost cut in half on passenger side against 1/4 panel (inner);

wires pinched @ high mount brake light

& @ driver's left hand seat belt anchor bolt @ base of B Pillar. See the location diagram

 
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ophoff95auto

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Hey, I really appreciate your input. Unfortunately, a lot of it is over my head. I went and took a second look at the truck with all of this in mind, and this is what I've got so far:

-The E4OD's TCIL is not blinking.

-I have no idea what coding is or does. Out of my league. Sorry!

-Everything basic checks out. All of the fluids are in good shape. No burnt toast or water deposits.

-To the best of my knowledge no work has been done that would interfere with the braking system, including the brake lamps.

-I checked all of the fuses, and none of them have been blown.

One guy walking by told me that this could be a problem with my torque converter. Thoughts on that?

Also, I had a lady turn in front of me back in February, and we collided. All of the body work was repaired, but is there a chance that I'm having problems because of that?

 

miesk5

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yo,

No problem on the cose stuff;

A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) indicates that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or also called the Bronco's computer or Electronic Engine Control (EEC); has recognized an abnormal condition in the system. DTC's are the results of a system or circuit failure, but do not directly identify the failed component or components.

So for instance on that torque converter guess by that passer-by, the DTC could be:

DTC 628; "...I did things in a stupid-simple way when the 628 came up: I tapped into the TCC line, and attached a voltmeter between that line and chassis ground. While driving, I could watch for it to go between zero volts (meaning the PCM was commanding the converter to lock) and battery voltage (meaning the converter should be unlocked). It sounds counterintuitive at first, but that's a matter of perspective, I suppose. Anyhow, if you see the PCM trying to lock the TCC and nothing happens to the engine speed, or if you can give it a little more throttle and the engine speed rises while it's commanded to lock, then you're assured a problem exists. If there was an electrical problem, then the PCM should also be giving you a code 627 as well. The 628 indicates excessive converter slippage. At a steady cruise, say your 60 mph, if you tap the brake the engine speed should rise slightly, and then come back down as the TCC re-engages. This condition can be intermittent, and it's more of a mechanical problem than an electrical one. The fix for a slipping TCC is to replace the torque converter and stator shaft seal, nothing more. You'd be out a little over a hundred bucks probably, and a few hours' labor, if you get one through a reputable transmission shop. I wouldn't buy anything but an OE-type replacement. You may even be able to get a Motorcraft/Ford replacement through a local dealership, but I've no clue how much their price would be..."

Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve)

=================

So take time to read thru that Broncojoe link (right click on it) and try the Self Test for Codes.

and when you have time, get a test light or cheap digital multimeter from Wal Mart, etc and inspect the **** fuses in the power distribution box under the hood. Something could have shorted causing those fuses to ***** esp. since you had that accident; they feed the in-cab fuses so the in-cab may look good, but they're not getting the 12v.... ...

Ask away, we have time! as long as we wake up each morning...

 
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ophoff95auto

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You've given me a lot to learn and look into. I'll get right on it! In the end I'll probably end up deferring to a good mechanic, but I really appreciate your help.

 

miesk5

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yw,

But take time when it's quiet and read thru the slf-test bu Joe and try it w/ a helper.

For tranny repairs, see where the Police and FD take their vehicles to for repairs. Call their ADMIN Phone number and ask for the person who is in charge of vehicle maintenance for the info.

 

bboy

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I have a '95 automatic transmission full-sized Bronco, and in the middle of the interstate going up a steep hill today the transmission decided not to grip at all on Drive, 2nd, or 1st. I still have Park, and Reverse, but no power to the three forward gears. I don't know if this is a transmission problem, or a shifting problem. I've had shifting problems before, but thought they were fixed. Any suggestions? I don't know much about Broncos, and would really appreciate your expertise.



I have the same problem and got a code of 632, can you help

 

miesk5

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I have the same problem and got a code of 632, can you help
That Code will come in Broncos w/E4OD

DTC 632 - O/D Cancel switch, Overdrive cancel switch did not change state during KOER; is possibly the result of the test being done incorrectly. When you do a KOER test, you need to do a Dynamic Response Check is used to verify operation of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Mass Air Flow (MAF), Manifold Absolute Pressure(MAP), and Knock Sensor (KS) during a brief wide open throttle condition. The famed "Goose test".

See our pal Broncojoe's Self Test procedures @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

KeyOnEngineRunning KOER self test.

You preheat the engine and turn her off.

Shut off all electrical accessories or disconnect them (radio, CB's, lighting, etc.).

set your jumper wire and start her up.

After you get four flashes, or sweeps (three flashes or sweeps for a 6 cyl).

you depress and release the brake pedal, turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn, push the OD on off switch, THEN after a single flash... snap the throttle (push it all the way to the floor once) See Edit Below.

Then get ready to read your codes.

FYI a code of 11 or 111 is a pass code.

EDIT... prior to doing the throttle test, one should wait for the signal to do so. The signal is a single quick flash. Aparrantly some trucks do not require it, and it should not be performed without being prompted to do so.

 

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