hey first post here, im curious if you have tryed taking you dash switch apart but leaving it pluged in and using a screwdriver on the terminals, i had simillar issues with my tail gate, my dash switch would only move the window up but not down so i had to use a screwdriver to see if the switch was bad.. glad i figured that part out because now my window only goes down about 1/2 an inch. so guess i will try to find out how to jump the motor ive read alot about that just dont know where to tap into it at..
yo BK, WELCOME!
Motor Replacement; "...If the motor runs but doesn't move the glass, push the glass up for access. The glass is strong enough to support its own weight fully extended, but no extra weight..." miesk5 note, I use a standard height saw horse with a blanket folded to support da glass.. make sure the tailgate is resting DOWN fully (horizontally) by pushing or sitting on it before pulling glass out by hand (or closing driver side Latch by hand and using Key sw or driver's Dash switch to energize motor) and sliding saw horse under da glass...the cables need to fully stretched...& in his #7; "If the motor doesn't run, remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side - see below) that hold the regulator tracks to the glass brackets. Bend the regulator arms down slightly to pull the studs out of the brackets, and then push the glass up. Remember to FULLY lower the glass before lifting or closing the t/g..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/2742/12689
after going thru his TG tech pics to open access panel & remove glass, etc.
see these pics, click to Enlarge;
"...To access the motor, remove these 3 bolts with an 8mm or 5/16" socket. If the glass has already been removed, the regulator's spring can snap the arms & gears, so be careful.."
"To get enough slack in the wire to pull the motor out & work on it, remove the clip from the bottom of the tailgate. Remember to reinstall it later, or the wire could become entangled in the glass or regulator.
That hook on the L side is the bottom of the interlock rod, but it's disconnected at the top & laid over to the side right now. Normally, its long section would point straight at that hole in the background..."
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Motor Replacement in a 90; "...Another discovery I made was the lack of threads in the mounting holes of my replacement motor. I suspect most aftermarket replacement motors do not have threads. I made the decision to put threads in the holes rather than fight with nuts (once you've found what fun it is to remove one of these motor, you'll agree). I used a 12-24 N.C. tap to match the threads to the original bolts..."
Source: by Mud E1 (Brent R) at bejara.com via web.archive
SLOW to LOAD since it is archived; see site for pics
"...STEP 1: Remove the access panel on the inside of the tailgate. Note: If your motor is not operational, then you will have to do this while sitting inside the vehicle. I was able to use my motor, which was working intermittently, to get this picture. You will, however, need to be inside the vehicle with the tailgate closed to perform the following steps. DO NOT roll the window up while the tailgate is down as the window may break without proper support. FYI: The motor is located between the tailgate latch release handle and the outer sheet metal skin, approximately in the vicinity of the lightened area of this picture. STEP 2: With the window in the up position, place something solid to support it. Once you have the motor out of the door, this support will be the only thing keeping the window up. (Note to self: clean the dirt out of the inside of here some day).
STEP 3: Disconnect the wiring harness that runs to the motor. Because of the location of the wiring harness connectors and position locks, I was not able to capture this step with my camera. The harness runs behind the regulator to the bottom of the tailgate, then back up the inside of the inner sheet metal skin where it can be disconnected.
STEP 4: Locate the three bolts that hold the motor in place. Use a 5/16" socket (1/4" drive) to remove them and the motor. Be patient as you may learn valuable skills as a contortionist during this process.
STEP 5: Be sure the replacement motor is the correct one and that the wiring harness is compatible. For reference, I took photos of the original motor (left) and replacement motor (right) identification numbers. FYI: The replacement motor is identical to the one used for the right side door (if so equipped).
STEP 5.1: As I discovered, the harness lead on my replacement motor was too short. Do not make the mistake of simply hooking a shorter harness lead to the vehicle's harness. This mistake may not appear to be a problem until you try to roll the window down and discover that the harness needs to reach all the way under the window at ALL times. I simply spliced the old harness into the new harness and used heat shrink to keep the union water proof. I also recommend testing the motor before bolting it back into place to be sure the connections are good.
STEP 5.2: Another discovery I made was the lack of threads in the mounting holes of my replacement motor. I suspect most aftermarket replacement motors do not have threads. I made the decision to put threads in the holes rather than fight with nuts (once you've found what fun it is to remove one of these motor, you'll agree). I used a 12-24 N.C. tap to match the threads to the original bolts.
STEP 6: **** the gear on the replacement motor that powers the regulator. It's also not a bad idea to **** up the moving joints in the regulator to help reduce resistance, which both maximizes speed of operation and minimizes work load on the replacement motor.
STEP 7: Bolt the replacement motor into place. This step will probably be the most difficult as it is not easy to line up the motor with the regulator and start the bolts while trying to keep an eye on what your doing. But if I can do it so can you.
STEP 8: Remove the temporary window support.
STEP 9: Secure the wiring harness into place using the factory position locks. Note: I recommend testing the operation of the motor with the key or dash switch before going further in case something is not right.
STEP 10: Replace the tailgate access panel.
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Next time it would be better to Write your Q in a new post so we don't get years and issues mixed-up..I'm getting like a Dino now and forget thAngs, like where are my keys!"