Klicking noise

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

-mikko-

New member
Joined
Oct 24, 2010
Messages
30
Reaction score
2
Hello all!

My bronco has recently started give kinda klicking noise from engine compartment :unsure:

I can barely hear it if engine idles, but when it rev´s up I can hear noise/sound easily, it follows revs.

Are these engines with hydraulic followers? If so, wrong kind of oil might do this sound? Or is there any other good ideas?

In engine there is enough oil, but might be wrong type to this car (Ford 5W30 fully synthetic oil, same oil that I use in my 4.6 litre Modular engine Mustang).

I am pretty sure that sound is not from a header (that is leaking), sound is more "harder" than exhaust leak.

Noise is coming from passenger side so it´s going to be PITA just check that everything is in correct (under the valve cover) because it´s an 5.8 EFI engine :((

Thank you allready for any advice :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

Seabronc

New member
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
7,315
Reaction score
35
Location
North of NYC
Probably a bad exhaust gasket or cracked exhaust manifold. Mine is doing the same and I need to replace the exhaust gasket. However it could also be a loose lifter/s and or worn valve stem caps which will make a ticking noise. Get a piece of rubber hose. Put one end to your ear and move the other end around the engine to isolate the location of the noise while someone revs it up for you. Watch out for the fan blade.

Good luck,

:)>-

 
OP
OP
M

-mikko-

New member
Joined
Oct 24, 2010
Messages
30
Reaction score
2
Today I spent some "quality time" with my bronco :closedeyes:

I noticed that behind engine (between firewall and intake manifold) in that chrome pipe (which goes between heads) is somekind of "metallic canister" and top of it should be rubber hose going somewhere? ...it is quite a tight place to see :unsure:

That "canister" is corroded so badly that rubber hose is broken loose, so maybe this leak is making some noise?

Is it bossible to change that pipe (between heads) while engine is in car?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
9,071
Reaction score
1,019
Location
Floating in the Pacific
yo

Check Valve pic in an 87 351; "...If you have an exhaust leak, it may not be the manifold. Follow the hose from the smog pump to the back of the intake, it will go into a checkvalve on the crossover tube between the heads. The top of the checkvalve was rotted off inside the hose and created the leak there..."

photo_070609_004.jpg

Source: by broncoRPG at SuperMotors.net

Crossover Tube, Diverter & Check Valve Removal in an 88 5.0; "... took my upper plenum off ( I love that rear most bolt that won't allow a socket wrench on it), and found and removed the crossover tube. It has two 1/2" bolts that hold it onto either side of the motor, at the heads. It had alot of red colored carbon buildup, but no rust. I am replacing the valve eventhough it looks good, and hopefully I can keep the pipe, after cleaning it out, as long as the pipe doesn't break after removing the valve. The valve bolt is a 32 mm..."

Source: by Daves 88'

Crossover Tube, Diverter & Check Valve; "...The check valves run around $20.00 at any auto parts chain and they're made of cheap material so it's unlikley the tube itself will rust thru because the material is very thick...

Air Bypass Valve" is.........that valve should be off to the passenger side firewall behind the FI plenum directly above the CAT tube area and the vacuum line runs up front and converges into a four way vacuum line junction piece which heads over to the EGR solenoids on the fender liner behind the battery area............that's how mine is set up but m ine is an 86

If you look closely you'll see the chek valve and C/O tube is pipe threaded, use some anti-seize and don't over tighten and when putting the valve on the tube, you don't need a gasket for the CO tube ends but rather just use some bearing grease which melts and forms a nice gasket seal; this is a tip from Steve83-gaskets burn off and go away after a while and you're back with another vacuum leak etc..."

Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean)

Crossover Tube, Diverter & Check Valves & Hoses Location Diagram in a 5.8

secondaryair.jpg

xtubenew.jpg

Secondary Air Injection system consists of a belt-driven Air Pump, single or dual AIR Diverter valve(s), an AIR Bypass valve, and AIR Bypass solenoids, air silencer/filter, Powertrain Control Module and connecting wires and vacuum hoses. The Belt-Driven Secondary Air Injection system provides either upstream/bypass air or upstream/downstream/bypass air. The number of these system configurations vary significantly with AIR Bypass and AIR Diverter valve combinations (Figure 179).

1. The PCM requires ECT, IAT and rpm inputs to initiate Secondary Air Injection operation.

2. The PCM provides one or more signals that enable one or more AIR Bypass solenoids.

3. The AIR Bypass solenoids control one or more AIR Bypass valves and/or AIR Bypass Diverter Valves in order to route secondary air depending upon the specific configuration.

emissionsv8.jpg

4. The belt-driven Air Pump is operational any time the engine is running.

The 2ndry air system is known to fail in a wide variety of ways. The check valves that prevent hot exhaust from entering the rubber hoses age, rust, leak, & crack open melting the plastic TAB & TAD valves, creating exhaust leaks that can damage other components, raising exhaust oxygen levels (setting lean codes or rich adaptive limit codes), and making rattling noises. The hard steel tubing between the exhaust & the check valve can rust or crack (especially the infamous "crossover tube" on the backs of V8 heads). The vacuum controls leak (including the "coffee can" reservoir on the R wheelwell), get misrouted during other repairs, or the diaphragms rupture. The electronics that control the vacuum controls can fail electrically or mechanically, or the wires can be damaged. But all of these failures are either A) relatively cheap & easy to repair, or B) cheap & easy to prevent with normal inspection & maintenance.

secondaryair.jpg

Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

 
OP
OP
M

-mikko-

New member
Joined
Oct 24, 2010
Messages
30
Reaction score
2
Finally, yesterday I managed to replace that air check valve and exhaust gasket, but klicking noise is still there :( /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I managed to change that air check valve without taking upper manifold off => just bolt that connecting tube off and take it out of car, there is not much room but easier that way! Exhaust gasket was also broken (pacesetter shorty headers), but in drivers side...

Is it bossible to change lifters when intake manifold is in place, via those pushrod holes?

Are 351W EFI heads with 3/8" rocker bolts?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
9,071
Reaction score
1,019
Location
Floating in the Pacific
yo,

This is by Auto Zone;

register there and then you can have the Repair guide info! They you can have more vehicles than just the 88!

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038ed83

Remove the intake manifold.

Disconnect the Thermactor® air supply hose at the pump.

Remove the rocker arm covers.

Loosen the rocker arm fulcrum bolts until the rocker arms can be rotated off the pushrods.

Remove the pushrods. KEEP THE PUSHRODS IN ORDER, FOR INSTALLATION!

Using a magnetic lifter removal tool, remove the lifters. Wipe clean the exterior of each lifter as it's removed and mark it with an indelible marker, so that it can be installed in its original bore.

To install:

Coat the bottom surface of each lifter with multi-purpose grease and coat the rest of the lifter with clean engine oil.

Install each lifter in its original bore using the magnetic tool.

Coat each end of each pushrod with multi-purpose grease and install each in its original position. Make sure that each pushrod is properly seated in the lifter socket.

Engage the rocker arms with the pushrods and tighten the rocker arm fulcrum bolts to 18-25 ft. lbs. (24-34 Nm). No valve adjustment should be necessary, however, if there is any question as to post-assembly collapsed lifter clearance, see the "Valve Lash'' procedure in Routine Maintenance .

Install the rocker arm covers.

Connect the Thermactor® air supply hose at the pump.

Install the intake manifold.

====================

Rocker Arms

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION w/Torques

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038ed82

I know that the 3/8" bolt is same pn for 88 and up to 96 in both the 5.0 & 5.8; 390385 bolt

ARP® - fasteners

see page 48 in their catalog;

they have them in black oxide and SS

bolts come with washers and if ever needed, studs come with flanged lock nut

order their catalog

 

Members online

No members online now.

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
22,516
Messages
135,945
Members
25,118
Latest member
msgsnprtom
Top