Jump to content
66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Recommended Posts



Sorry, ISP kept turning off.

the breakout box allows testing of all engine input signals such as the EVP sensor and all computer generated output signals. It fits between engine computer (EEC) and connector so that circuits can be tested for voltage or resistance. Unfortunately, they are costly and most of us use wiring diagrams and voltage or resistance specs to test manually w/a digital multimeter.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

So 327 was solved when "...found that the plug on top of the EGR valve was loose, i plugged it back up and re-ran the KOER test now i have the following Codes..."


This jumping between page 1 and 2 is killing my eyesight. sorry, but I have some floaters that drive me nuts.. I thought I saw Code 337.. but that stuff was good for 327..so



Try and read thru the TFI diagnostic Links for DTC 213 or shake that SPOUT harness and re test for Codes..since a previous owner or shop seems to have replaced it w/ a Spout jumper that looks like new.


Here is the Ford pin-point tests whci invlove disco the harness @ computer (called PCM here)]



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

n a previous reply, you mentioned that Link in my site by Brian...


Here it is by Ford..it deals w/DTC 211 but it mentions where Shorts to ground caould occur @ shielding...

TSB 95-15-11 Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark


ISSUE: '93-95 light truck vehicles with 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, or 7.5L gas engines may exhibit various driveability symptoms, such as no start, no spark, hesitation/stumble/stall/miss and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211. The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain wire (Circuit 48.) cutting through the insulation of, and shorting to, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) wire (Circuit 395) or the spark output (SPOUT) wire (Circuit 929) near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-pin connector. A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire.


ACTION: Inspect PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), Ignition Ground (IGN GND) - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK) for possible cut insulation from Circuit 48. Also, inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Mastic Tape. Refer to the following procedure for service details.



1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2. If vehicle has the speed control option, remove the speed control servo bracket and position it out of the way for improved access.

3. Disconnect the connector at the Ignition Control Module (ICM - formerly TFI).

4. Unbolt the 60-pin connector from the PCM and pull the wiring up to work on.

5. Remove the 1" (25.4mm) diameter convoluted tubing from the wiring assembly. The date code tag will remain taped to the convoluted tubing.

6. Remove/cut the tape of the wiring assembly. Work toward the the ICM connector (pull back convoluted tubing as needed).

7. Unravel aluminum foil tape and electrical drain wire (Circuit 48.) from main bundle, exposing the junction or "Y" splice between the ICM tapeout and the PCM tapeout. Be careful with the foil wrap because it will be reused.


8. After the foil wrap is removed, look for the three (3) "grouped" wires in question at the "Y" splice. The three (3) wires are: PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), IGN GND - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK).

9. Locate the (bare) electrical drain wire. Wire end is toward the ICM connector, again, about 5" (127mm) from the "Y" splice. Unravel wire from the top (ICM) end and down to the area where the bare wire makes contact with the three (3) wires mentioned above.

10. Inspect for any damage to the insulation of the three (3) wires in question. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant-Mastic Tape (3M Part No. 054007-06147).

11. Inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands (Figure 3). If stray wire is found, apply pressure on the wire with pliers to bend the wire down and wrap the splice with three (3) layers of flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent, to ensure the wire does not make contact with other wires or the foil wrap.

12. Carefully rewrap the bare electrical drain wire and foil. Work backward, toward the ICM connector end. Tape end of foil wrap to secure.

13. Retape worked area securely (between PCM and ICM connectors) with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent.

14. Reinstall all convoluted tubing and tape ends of tubing to the tubing with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent.

15. Reinstall PCM connector to the PCM.

16. Reinstall the ICM connector.

17. Reinstall the speed control servo bracket (two bolts) if applicable, and tighten bolts to 15-18 N-m (11-13 lb-ft).

18. Reconnect battery ground cable.



by Ford via Steve83



I hate touching these old connectors, esp @ PCM!


Maybe stop by local Ford dealership and question Service Manager about this Short; if he or she jumps on the problem and seems to know where to look it will save you a lot of grief.





and here is da ign diagram for a F 150 but similar

http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/bronco_1995_21-1.gif by Ryan M


SPOUT is shown in upper left

check both Pink wires from SPOUT for short; one wire goes to Ignition Module (pic below)

other goes thru shielding (poss short to ground location) to PCM pin 36


Ignition Control Module (ICM) Location pics (near driver's side hood hinge) & info in a 96 5.8; "...Spout connector wires go into ignition module wiring connector..."

Source: by DNBELOWBRONCO (Kevin, Labor of Love) at SuperMotors.net




Ignition Control Module (ICM) pic Source: by buzzbronco



This diagram may help for other stuff too:

Ignition Control Module (ICM) Location (near driver's side hood hinge)in Engine Bay Diagram in 92-96 Source: by Ford via miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

sorry for the delay of response after messing with all kinds of stuff I have fixed the 213 code now I am getting a 536 & 632 can you please tell me what these are referring to. Also can you please send me a link of where I can find a list of codes. P.s. This is the KOER test my KOEO Test gave me a 111 which I believe is a pass. Thank you for your help.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

yo! Good!


What did you do to eliminate that 213?


And you ARE IN LUCK on the New Codes


DTC 536 - Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test or shorted to ground

Source: by miesk5



DTC 632 - OD cancel switch not changing state. "...During the KOER test, AFTER the initial recognition code is generated, the brake pedal must be applied, the OD switch must be turned off and then back on and finally the "goose" test must be performed. This code is generated when the person performing the KOER test fails to deactivate and reactivate the OD cancel switch at the end of the shift lever. It does NOT indicate a problem unless the switch WAS INDEED deactivated and reactivated and the code still came up. (Computer needs to know if the tranny is in OD or not


Both in KOER portion of the self test the brake pedal must be depressed and the OD off/on sw at end of shifter stalk must be turned on and off;


Here is a list of DTCs 3 Digits Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com


And I have a bunch incl that Link in site; under


EEC-IV; SELF TEST & Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), Overview, etc


or use my Search feature there; just type in the number...

no "DTC" needed, just da number




for da SELF TEST in future or now;




The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.




Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.


Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.


Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.



Engine ID codes are issued at the beginning of the KOER Test and are one-digit numbers represented by the number of pulses sent out.


During KOER; For gasoline engines, the engine ID code is equal to one-half the number of engine cylinders (i.e. 4 pulses = 8 cylinders).


The Dynamic Response code is a single pulse that occurs 6-20 seconds after the engine identification code. When/if the Dynamic Response code occurs, perform a brief Wide-Open Throttle (WOT). The dynamic response check is used on some applications to verify operation of the TP, MAF, MAP & KS sensors.


On vehicles equipped with the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, within 1 to 2 seconds after the ID code, the steering wheel must be turned at least one-half turn and released. The PSP Switch signals the EEC Module when power steering pressure exceeds 350 psi ±50. The engine then increases idle speed to compensate for the additional load. It appears the PSP switch was deleted from the 94 model year. PSP Switch is screwed into the high pressure port of the PS pump(5.0L Only).


On vehicles equipped with Brake On/Off (BOO) input (such as E4OD), the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID Code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the Brake Lamp Switch.


On vehicles equipped with Transmission Control Switch (TCS) such as da E4OD, the switch must be cycled after the ID code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the TCS. TCS = Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) on E4OD it is also ref to as the OD on/off LED/Switch @ end of tranny gear stalk.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

to fix the 213 I had unplugged the ICM while the truck was running it killed the truck I plugged it back in and then retested and it was gone. But I need to know where the relay for the fuel pump is located. And how do I test one of those relays.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



FP Relay is in Power Distribution Box located under the hood on the drivers side fenderwell, on driver's side of the air cleaner housing


pic by Froggmann (Ken P) at froggmann.com




Diagram in a 95

Source: by our friend, Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums


If your Horn works, then swap the Horn Relay w/FP relay


also same for PCM Power relay which feeds power to EEC and then on to the FP Relay.


Buy Bosch relays..


For the electrical test, this was presented here by another friend, BroncoJoe;


Testing, Ford (Bosch Type); "...Fuel pump relay switches, and other relays are similar to the starter solinoid, in that they make a high amperage connection through a switched low amperage connection. There are two smaller connections, and two larger connections. TO test it, apply 12v to one of the smaller connections, and ground the other smaller connection. (I used to small aligator clipped jumper wries separated by a small piece of cardboard to keep them from shorting against each other.) You should hear it click. Then check for continuity between the two larger connections.Now remove the power from the smaller connections and recheck continuity between the larger connections.With power, one should have continuity, without power it should be an open circuit (no continuity)..."

Source: by Poppy at fordforumsonline.com

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

What is the status of this problem? Have you been able to fix the truck?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...