yo Coolio! LTNS pal...
the lights on the 4x4 switch on my dash are lit up. not bright but dim
Unless a Prev owner swapped it out; you have da BW 1356 Electric Shift On The Fly ("Touch-Drive", ESOF) TC
So go thru this 1st.
1356 Electric Shift Troubleshooting & Repair - BEST PROCESS!
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at
http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/electric1356/elec1356.htm w/wiring diagram
Also see Steve83's wiring diagram bec it has the pin-out numbers in it
1356 Electric Shift Speed Sensor Wiring Diagram
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/172140_1
SEE MORE Info/tech LINKS in my site @
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No Start;
"...First thing to check is batty/relay wiring for corrosion, tightness to posts, etc. Also ck grounds to engine, down to frame, over to firewall and smaller wires to inner fender near headlight..
. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the park/neutral safety switch (Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS on a 90 with an E4OD) that turns the starter over. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit.
Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem.
Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to a park/neutral safety switch/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch.
You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground; check to see if da relay is tight to inner fender with no corrosion because the relay's body is ground path via inner fender). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS) Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS with an E4OD. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms such as changing solenoid to starter relay and deleting jumping large terminals on the relay.
Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)
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Starter (@) Relay Jumping in 92-96
if Image isn't allowed to appear here, see it in my site @
http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG
Sewiw shows a remote start switch Jumpers; you can use a reg. small jumper wire or coat hanger, etc.
