good evening,
i need to replace my 2 front body mounts on my 95 Bronco.
do these mounts I found online look like they are the right ones? I left a link below.
Also, are they hard to replace? should i have a mechanic do them?
thank you in advance people!
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/basket.php
yo
That Link is coming up as an "empty cart"
Look here for it;
Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 96 without Nomenclature
Source: by nsasanas (Black Iron Horse) at SuperMotors.net
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&
:...The rear bolts are 7/16"x14(NC) 6.5" long threaded 2.5" with a 5/8" head with large integral washer.
The 6 identical bolts are 7/16"x14(NC) 3.75" long threaded 2.5" with a 5/8" head with small integral washer.
The front bolts are metric (no other details)..."
Parts Break-Out & Locations (& Bolt Sizes) for 94 (other years are similar) w/Nomenclature; "Check out View Z (lower R). It's not totally accurate because it omits the thick spacer, and there should be another washer between the Nut & the Spacer on top of the core support..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
btw, Todd wrote elsewhere; "...you can replace the core support with the tranny cooler, ac condensor and radiator still connected..."
Some Tips by Steve;
"...It didn't take me more than 5 hours working alone to change the whole truck, and I had to hacksaw 2 mounts and file 2 bolt heads. I wouldn't try doing them one at a time - you might twist the body permanently. Work down one frame rail, tighten them all back down, then move to the other side.
The core support bolts are just outside the radiator opening on the
back side. These will be the worst because of battery acid and road
salt."
"...The tricks: remem. he replaced all mounts...
1. If you can con someone competent into doing it for less than $100,
get him working on it before the drugs wear off.
2. If you must do it yourself, have a good socket set with good ratchets,
extensions, and breaker bars, as well as a ball peen hammer, a blunt
drift (punch), vise grips, pry bars, a jack, 2-4 jack stands, a 6-foot
4x4 post, a hacksaw (Stanley Contractor with bimetalloy blades is the
best), anti-sieze lubricant, and all the Liquid Wrench from your state
and the 3 surrounding.
3. Soak the bolts (especially INSIDE the tubes) with Liquid Wrench
several times over the course of a week before starting.
4. Use the pry bars to lift the body and get the Liquid Wrench spray
tube on top of the top plate to fill the top tube.
5. Back up the nut from below (above on the core support) with vise
grips or wrenches so you don't twist it off the plate.
6. If the bolt won't turn, try vibrating it with the hammer & drift
(only on the head) to loosen the threads and let the Liquid Wrench
get in.
7. Work down one frame rail at a time so the body doesn't shift out
of line.
8. When you finally get a bolt out, rinse it and the hole it came
out of with Liquid Wrench and thread it back in about 5 turns. Put
the drift squarely on top of the head and smack it with the hammer.
After you lose a few fingernails, the tubes will separate and the
bottom section will drop out.
9. BIG TIP ! ! ! Coat the threads with "Anti-Sieze Lubricant" !!!
(I use it on everything.)
10. If the bolt won't turn, or the head strips, or the nut breaks
off, you will have to hacksaw through the tubes. Do it as high as
you can so you can reuse the lower section when you eventually separate
them. If the bolt breaks, you can still separate the tubes with the
drift and get the bolt out later. Don't be afraid to rip the old rubber
out of your way - you won't be reusing it.
11. When you have an entire side free (even if there are mounts that
need to be hacksawed), put the post under the door running front-to-back
along as many body reinforcements as possible. Then use it to lift
the body with the jack - 2 inches should be plenty. Don't go too high
or you'll damage the fuel filler and the fan or shroud. Later models
also have ground straps that may be too short, but they can be pried
off and hammered back on.
12. Remove the old mounts (by hacksawing if necassary) and top sections
and immediately replace them with the new ones. (You should have already
prepared them per mfr. instructions.)
13. Lower the body straight back onto the new mounts and reinstall
the bottom sections and bolts (this is where an assistant is handy).
If you must buy new bolts, get at least grade 5 or class 5.5; grade
8 or class 8.8-10.8 is better.
14. If you have a mechanical clutch linkage (like me), adjust it.
Automatics may have to adjust the shift linkage..."
Some Core Support/Mount Replacement in a 95 Source: by Fronabarger (BRONCONUT)

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"...passenger side of core support, its rusted in half at the mount I could pic it up about 6" off of the rest..."
--
drivers side wasn't as bad but not good either
What was left of the core support, anyone looking to do this should have a couple of cans of JB penatrating oil/spray to let the bolts soak several times. I
ended up breaking 2-3 bolts, not the mounts.