Body mounts

good evening,

i need to replace my 2 front body mounts on my 95 Bronco.

do these mounts I found online look like they are the right ones? I left a link below.

Also, are they hard to replace? should i have a mechanic do them?

thank you in advance people!

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/basket.php

SAVMATIC said:

good evening,

i need to replace my 2 front body mounts on my 95 Bronco.

do these mounts I found online look like they are the right ones? I left a link below.

Also, are they hard to replace? should i have a mechanic do them?

thank you in advance people!

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/basket.php

Click to expand...

yo

That Link is coming up as an "empty cart"

Look here for it;



Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 96 without Nomenclature

Source: by nsasanas (Black Iron Horse) at SuperMotors.net

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&



:...The rear bolts are 7/16"x14(NC) 6.5" long threaded 2.5" with a 5/8" head with large integral washer.

The 6 identical bolts are 7/16"x14(NC) 3.75" long threaded 2.5" with a 5/8" head with small integral washer.

The front bolts are metric (no other details)..."

Parts Break-Out & Locations (& Bolt Sizes) for 94 (other years are similar) w/Nomenclature; "Check out View Z (lower R). It's not totally accurate because it omits the thick spacer, and there should be another washer between the Nut & the Spacer on top of the core support..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

btw, Todd wrote elsewhere; "...you can replace the core support with the tranny cooler, ac condensor and radiator still connected..."

Some Tips by Steve;

"...It didn't take me more than 5 hours working alone to change the whole truck, and I had to hacksaw 2 mounts and file 2 bolt heads. I wouldn't try doing them one at a time - you might twist the body permanently. Work down one frame rail, tighten them all back down, then move to the other side.

The core support bolts are just outside the radiator opening on the

back side. These will be the worst because of battery acid and road

salt."

"...The tricks: remem. he replaced all mounts...

1. If you can con someone competent into doing it for less than $100,

get him working on it before the drugs wear off.

2. If you must do it yourself, have a good socket set with good ratchets,

extensions, and breaker bars, as well as a ball peen hammer, a blunt

drift (punch), vise grips, pry bars, a jack, 2-4 jack stands, a 6-foot

4x4 post, a hacksaw (Stanley Contractor with bimetalloy blades is the

best), anti-sieze lubricant, and all the Liquid Wrench from your state

and the 3 surrounding.

3. Soak the bolts (especially INSIDE the tubes) with Liquid Wrench

several times over the course of a week before starting.

4. Use the pry bars to lift the body and get the Liquid Wrench spray

tube on top of the top plate to fill the top tube.

5. Back up the nut from below (above on the core support) with vise

grips or wrenches so you don't twist it off the plate.

6. If the bolt won't turn, try vibrating it with the hammer & drift

(only on the head) to loosen the threads and let the Liquid Wrench

get in.

7. Work down one frame rail at a time so the body doesn't shift out

of line.

8. When you finally get a bolt out, rinse it and the hole it came

out of with Liquid Wrench and thread it back in about 5 turns. Put

the drift squarely on top of the head and smack it with the hammer.

After you lose a few fingernails, the tubes will separate and the

bottom section will drop out.

9. BIG TIP ! ! ! Coat the threads with "Anti-Sieze Lubricant" !!!

(I use it on everything.)

10. If the bolt won't turn, or the head strips, or the nut breaks

off, you will have to hacksaw through the tubes. Do it as high as

you can so you can reuse the lower section when you eventually separate

them. If the bolt breaks, you can still separate the tubes with the

drift and get the bolt out later. Don't be afraid to rip the old rubber

out of your way - you won't be reusing it.

11. When you have an entire side free (even if there are mounts that

need to be hacksawed), put the post under the door running front-to-back

along as many body reinforcements as possible. Then use it to lift

the body with the jack - 2 inches should be plenty. Don't go too high

or you'll damage the fuel filler and the fan or shroud. Later models

also have ground straps that may be too short, but they can be pried

off and hammered back on.

12. Remove the old mounts (by hacksawing if necassary) and top sections

and immediately replace them with the new ones. (You should have already

prepared them per mfr. instructions.)

13. Lower the body straight back onto the new mounts and reinstall

the bottom sections and bolts (this is where an assistant is handy).

If you must buy new bolts, get at least grade 5 or class 5.5; grade

8 or class 8.8-10.8 is better.

14. If you have a mechanical clutch linkage (like me), adjust it.

Automatics may have to adjust the shift linkage..."

Some Core Support/Mount Replacement in a 95 Source: by Fronabarger (BRONCONUT)

[/url]

"...passenger side of core support, its rusted in half at the mount I could pic it up about 6" off of the rest..."

--



drivers side wasn't as bad but not good either



What was left of the core support, anyone looking to do this should have a couple of cans of JB penatrating oil/spray to let the bolts soak several times. I ended up breaking 2-3 bolts, not the mounts.

Thanks for the detailed input miesk5!

I attached a pic of the mounts I found at http://www.autopartswarehouse.com

I was just out checking on the mounts and found that the piece of metal that the top of the mounts attach to (not the bracket that holds mount to frame)are terrible. they are rusted and deteorating pretty bad. Any clue as to how much of a pain/cost that would be to replace both sides?? I'm guessing I should find someone who welds.

Thanks again-

yo

Comcast screwed me again! I had this reply all done and then my conn blew out again!

ok

I can't see enuf of that BM at that place, nor find it in their site;

Look at that View Z in that Diagram I posted by Steve83; http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/194329/thumbnail/body-mounts.jpg

see that Absorber part # 1000192 ?

It is used on many Fords..along w/all the other hardware;

here is a better view of it in a 2004 Ranger

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/s420/2009-10-27_194800_04_Ranger_Cab_mounting.pdf

Our Main Sponsor here, Jeff's bronco Graveyard has em too with a better description;

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-605-body-hardware-bronco.html



Item #33102 - New

1980-96 Ford Bronco

1980-96 Ford Truck

Bushing and sleeve

Threaded in the center with bushing

Upper Our Price: $30.00

--

Repair cost will vary; hopefully you have a VG local shop that has done excellent reapairs for you in the past @ a resonable price.

I have no idea of cost.

I replaced mine as part of my restoration project over the last year+ . All I've got to say is that it was a ROYAL PITA. To replace the front ones you need to have them all loose so you can raise the body far enough to put the new mounts and associated hardware in. 5 of the 8 were so rusted inside the tube that I couldn't simply soak them as previously mentioned. I ended up using a carbide saw blade, (one with diamond grit along the edge), for a sawzall to cut the tubes and that took forever because you are cutting bolts that are a number 8 hardness.

If you are going to replace any, replace them all. Use the polly mounts. Make sure you get the kit for a Bronco and not a F150. The diagram in the LMC Truck shows the wrong poly mount for position 2. That is the poly mount for a F150. In fact the one that goes in that position, including the associated hardware, is the same as position 3. As far as bolts go, the bolt kit from Bronco grave yard is much too long so just go out and get the ones listed in Meisk5's first response. From the LMC Truck catalog you will need the following hardware http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=22 6 of #28, 6 of number 31, 2 of number 18, 6 of number 27, ( I didn't use the other numbers as they are the same part number, what I did list skips the hardware they show for position #2 and gets you the correct part). LMC truck has been notified of the diagram error for position 2, which you can see in the second diagram of Miesk5's original post. The Bronco poly kit from Bronco Graveyard http://broncograveyard.com/bronco?search=33090 if you like RED then 33092 also has the correct poly bushings including the radiator support bushings. Do not waste your money on their hardware kit as it has bolts that are way too long (part number 33100). Get the hardware from LMC Truck that I previously listed, with the exception of the rear mounts, I went to LOWES and got # 8's from them. I don't know if LMC has the correct length bolts, because by then I had so many useless bolts, I didn't want to risk getting another useless set /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />.

If you do decide to do them, do one side at a time. You need to raise the body off the frame high enough to get the mount and the upper tube in. If you can afford it and want to save yourself a big headache, busted knuckles, years of doing penance for all the bad words you are going to use, have a body shop or some mechanic you don't like do it.

Good luck,

>-

Savmatic, the pic of the bushings you show are not the correct ones for your 94 Bronco. You should have the ones pictured by Miesk5, with the hex-shaped bottom. These are rubber molded around the metal part, and must be replaced as a unit. THey are near impossible to separate. Also, beware that the frame mounting bracket for these is often wallowed out or rusted thru, and will also need to be replaced if damaged. These are riveted onto the frame, but replacements are bolted on after removing the rivets and old mounts. Finally, the core support may be rusted in the body mount area, and any damage needs to be fixed before installing the new bushings. There may be one or more spacers on top of the bushing, used to align or level the core support. In my experience, it's a PITA to replace these, since they are often rusted out or the bolts are seized up. The inner sleeve is threaded for the bolt, and no amount of pounding will separate the old ones if rusted up. A Sawz-All or cut-off wheel may need to be used to get the old ones out. JSM84

thanks alot for your help guys! Much appreciated! got my parts lined up for ordering today and I have a friend of a friend who wants to do it....well, he needs the extra money anyways /

yo!

Great Info SEABRONC & JSME!

I got this stuff Linked in my site so others can learn from your experiences.

==

SAV... hope your friend doesn't owe you any $ or borrowed any tools from you.

You may never see him again. lol

Get that PB Blaster (2 cans at least. gloves, EYE PROTECTION, and bandages/anti-biotic cream for this friend ready. really..

Post pics if you can.

ive got a question. ive got a 93 bronco, sat in storage for 9 yrs. got all new shocks bushings etc. would i feel a difference with new body mount bushing? they are origional