Front Wheel Bearing Help

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Wild Will

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I took my '95 EB to get some new tires put on it and I was told by the folks there that the bearings are not doing so good and ought to be replaced ASAP. I would like to be able to do the work myself and save some bucks but I am not real sure about what is needed to do the job. The guy I bought it from told me he had different hubs installed, they are SUPER WINCH hubs.

I've done bearing replacement on 2 wheel drive vehicles but not on a 4 wheel drive vehicle yet.

Would y'all provide me with some insight on what I'm getting into?

Thanks!

 
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miesk5

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yo Will,

Most of it's in the tools needed, proper torques on the Wheel Bearing Locknut (in Link below, Shane refers to it as da bearing adjustment nut) and correct parts.

Here is one comprehensive write-up with all above; (sory to refer you to another Forum, but...)

Front Wheel & Spindle Installation in a 96

Source: by Shane C. (BigBlue, bigbluebronk) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102256

Shane had Warn manual locking hubs on his 96, but they are similar to your SUPER WINCH hubs. Good thing that they're nor the OEM Auto Hubs which would involve more parts needed (conversion kit).

Disassembly & Assembly, Superwinch™ Manual Hub, 5 ***** in a 96 (no torque specs)

Source: by Tom H at http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbroncos/tech/rotor-hub.html

Dana 44 Spindle & Seal Part Numbers for 95-96; "...Ford has replaced some of the numbers with seals that are not correct. When I did mine last year (96, not sure how closee to yours), the parts guy new his stuff and said when they crossed some numbers they didn't get it right. I went to five dealers and each had the same problem. Don't go to Pep Boys and get the seals they sell. Even though they are Chicago Rawhide, same as Napa relabel, they are not the better ones. The parts they have are a very cheap version, which may work, but I wouldn't trust. Napa had to order in the 25009, but they got it in a day. As far as seal 3, the one I got new from Ford was one piece, but the one that came out broke into the three pieces. If you get the Ford one, you will see how easy it is to snap apart. Seal 2 is actually a smaller version of seal 6, but the oneFord parts guy said that they don't have a replacement. Fortunately Napa has one. They have one part D3TZ3C132A that they try to sell. It is a metal slinger that could be pressed in place of seal 2, but it has no sealing properties, just a stamped part that looks like a washer with a lip where it slides over the axle. Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009 http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+-+Front+Wheel Item 7 is Napa NOS23276..."

Source: by Tony R

Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." Thanks to Chris!

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

 
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Wild Will

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Thanks for the assist miesk5! This version originally had the factory auto-lockers that were replaced with the SUPER WINCH hubs by the man I bought this beast from. I found one of my manuals for this truck and find that I also may need to identify which of the several axle sets are installed under the front end. I figure once I get that info I can go to my supplier and get all of the spindle nut wrenches and other doodads for fixin' and get the proper bearings and seals and make this thing right.

The previous owner was not known for taking even minimal care of his vehicles, just my luck and I found this juicy bit of info out after the first big incident with my rig, Yay. :angry:

It's all right though, I'll make it near to perfect as I can and continue enjoying my ride.

And slap the guy next time I see him. :eek:)

 

Devil Dog08

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yo Will,

Most of it's in the tools needed, proper torques on the Wheel Bearing Locknut (in Link below, Shane refers to it as da bearing adjustment nut) and correct parts.

Here is one comprehensive write-up with all above; (sory to refer you to another Forum, but...)

Front Wheel & Spindle Installation in a 96

Source: by Shane C. (BigBlue, bigbluebronk) at http://www.fullsizeb...ad.php?t=102256

Shane had Warn manual locking hubs on his 96, but they are similar to your SUPER WINCH hubs. Good thing that they're nor the OEM Auto Hubs which would involve more parts needed (conversion kit).

Disassembly & Assembly, Superwinch™ Manual Hub, 5 ***** in a 96 (no torque specs)

Source: by Tom H at http://www.off-road..../rotor-hub.html

Dana 44 Spindle & Seal Part Numbers for 95-96; "...Ford has replaced some of the numbers with seals that are not correct. When I did mine last year (96, not sure how closee to yours), the parts guy new his stuff and said when they crossed some numbers they didn't get it right. I went to five dealers and each had the same problem. Don't go to Pep Boys and get the seals they sell. Even though they are Chicago Rawhide, same as Napa relabel, they are not the better ones. The parts they have are a very cheap version, which may work, but I wouldn't trust. Napa had to order in the 25009, but they got it in a day. As far as seal 3, the one I got new from Ford was one piece, but the one that came out broke into the three pieces. If you get the Ford one, you will see how easy it is to snap apart. Seal 2 is actually a smaller version of seal 6, but the oneFord parts guy said that they don't have a replacement. Fortunately Napa has one. They have one part D3TZ3C132A that they try to sell. It is a metal slinger that could be pressed in place of seal 2, but it has no sealing properties, just a stamped part that looks like a washer with a lip where it slides over the axle. Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009 http://www.napaonlin....+-+Front+Wheel Item 7 is Napa NOS23276..."

Source: by Tony R

Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." Thanks to Chris!

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

i was going to help you . but Meik is all the help you will need . he is the best. one thing though is that Autozone lends you the locknut tool for free. the part only costs 15 bucks so i bought one. it is a must have tool . between taking the wheel off and replacing the bearings took me about an hour and a half and i replaced the front brakes while i was at it .you know since you have the wheel off inspect them . good luck

 
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Wild Will

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Thanks for the reminder DevilDog, while I'm in there I've got to replace one of the brake rotors as well.

The last owner ran the front pads down to metal and ground deep ruts into the rotor. I had the pads replaced recently and elected to keep the rotor until I can replace it, the mechanics where I went couldn't get it off of the hub so, I'll do that when I replace the bearings.

 

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