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mustang9d

1996 Bronco Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

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Truck: 1996 Bronco 4x4, 197,000 miles,351, auto tranny, all factory as far as I can tell.

 

This is my Son's first truck and we are going to go through it and have it ready to go by the time the thaw completes here in Alaska. We're starting with the wheel bearings and moving to the oil pan gasket, which should take up the better part of a weekend.

 

First of what I'm sure will be many questions:

 

What tools are required to replace the front wheel bearings for a 1996 Bronco 4x4?

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

m9d

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yo

would list it all plus additional tips, esp if you have 3 screw auto hubs...that require a diff brng lock nut socket than the "older stye auto/or manual hubs.

 

 

Dana 44 Replacement, Front Wheel & Spindle Installation in a 95

Source: by Shane C. (BigBlue, bigbluebronk) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/16541/59069

 

See Shane's tool list.. for man hubs

 

Read these;

Seal for 95-96; "...The spindle bearing seal is 3 pieces (1 rubber & 2 hard plastic), but it's only shown in this diagram as parts #2 & 3. http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/277564. I wouldn't be surprised if the aftermarket (old-style) part isn't identical to OE, but it's functionally identical.."

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck)Spindle & Seal Part Numbers for 95-96; "...Ford has replaced some of the numbers with seals that are not correct. When I did mine last year (96, not sure how closee to yours), the parts guy new his stuff and said when they crossed some numbers they didn't get it right. I went to five dealers and each had the same problem. Don't go to Pep Boys and get the seals they sell. Even though they are Chicago Rawhide, same as Napa relabel, they are not the better ones. The parts they have are a very cheap version, which may work, but I wouldn't trust. Napa had to order in the 25009, but they got it in a day. As far as seal 3, the one I got new from Ford was one piece, but the one that came out broke into the three pieces. If you get the Ford one, you will see how easy it is to snap apart. Seal 2 is actually a smaller version of seal 6, but the oneFord parts guy said that they don't have a replacement. Fortunately Napa has one. They have one part D3TZ3C132A that they try to sell. It is a metal slinger that could be pressed in place of seal 2, but it has no sealing properties, just a stamped part that looks like a washer with a lip where it slides over the axle. Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009 http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+-+Front+Wheel Item 7 is Napa NOS23276..."

Source: by Tony R (TonyR)

 

Auto Hubs..read thru the LINK of this

Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." Thanks to Chris!

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

 

 

96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm

Same as most earlier years exc. for OBD II in 96, 4WABS (93-96); ABS (87-92); Air Bag (94-96); 3 Screw Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.); and a few other items

 

see Group 05: DRIVELINE

Section 05-03C:

Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjs53cl.htm

Edited by miesk5
UPDATED URLS 26 MAR 2015

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Because not everyone wants to read three days worth of write ups, heres a list of tools.

allen wrenches,(to remove lock out) rubber mallet,(to tap lock out loose, if needed) pick set,( to remove lock/snap ring) phillips screw driver,(to remove small screw) bearing spindle nut tool (to remove spindle nuts), hammer and block of wood (to knock out old bearings and seal)

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lol, I capice.. there is a lot of info in the Links..

but...

How do we know which Bearing Locknut he has in there? the 3-screw auto hub lock cap type or the 5 screw manual hub?

There is a heckuva lot of diff between the diff types incl size and most importantly, the Torque Settings.

I got flamed badly for mentioning all this in the old My Big Bronco site in the mid-90s; quite a few people flame me & Vehemently wrote that I should have just told the person to SEARCH for the info, but the Searches only came up for the "older style" auto hubs since no one had touched the 3 screw type yet in that Forum. So, the ADMIN deleted my info & Links in that post and the person went on to over-torque his 95's lock nut by about 100 ft-lbs

 

and what about those seals?

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Thanks for the helpful replies. The hubs are automatic 3 screw type. I purchased the 4 prong 2 1/2 in lockring socket. The links provided a great exploded view diagram.

 

Are there other parts that i'll need to replace while i'm at it? Will I also need the 2 1/2 in rounded hex locknut socket?

 

Thanks again for the valuable info,

m9d

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yw

re; "... purchased the 4 prong 2 1/2 in lockring socket..."

Depends, if you keep the auto hubs, get it

is it this one? http://www.tooldesk.com/automotive/OTC6795-OTC-12-Dr-199596-Ford-F150-and-Bronco-Axle-Nut-Socket-212.aspx

-

Your year's auto hub cap is held on by Torx T25 screws

if you are swapping to Manual Hubs now you can remove the lock ring with just a small punch & light hammer since it is torqued to only 16 Lb-In and then you'll just need the Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS pic; "...The L spanner is stronger & less likely to slip off a nut, but it won't work on a self-locking nut..."

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/701808

spanners.jpg

 

as I mentioned beore, since you're in there; get the seals. be ready to replace the brake pads, rotor,,, all depends on condition of course.

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Miesk5,

 

I actually bought the tool on the right, in the pic that you posted. I plan on keeping the auto hubs for now. So i guess i'll need to get the 2 1/2 Axle Nut Socket at the link you posted, http://www.tooldesk....Socket-212.aspx

 

I'll hold on to the other for later I guess, in case I switch to manual hubs.

 

Thanks again,

m9d

Edited by mustang9d

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And a big hammer and flat screwdriver if you put the race in backwards not that ive done that or anything :-"

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96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)

 

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjs53cl.htm

 

Same as most earlier years exc. for OBD II in 96, 4WABS (93-96); ABS (87-92); Air Bag (94-96); 3 Screw Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.); and a few other items

 

see Group 05: DRIVELINE

Section 05-03C:

Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjs53cl.htm

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