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freeeat40

air pump 1995 351

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I hope someone can shed some light on this. I have a 1995 Bronco with a 351 engine. There is something called the "Air Pump" mounted on the front bottom of the motor, and my fan belt goes through it. Evidently the bearings or something is going out, squeeking real bad, and needs to be replaced. But the tech at Napa told me that some people totally remove this and just install a shorter fan belt.

 

Does my motor NEED this air pump?

 

If I remove it totally, does anyone know what size belt I would need to use?

 

Any and all help is appreciated.

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If you do have to keep your truck emissions legal the air pump comes apart pretty easy, and you can lube them up with about an hour or two worth of work. My '89 5.0 sat for a while and when I went to start it the air pump was squealing bad. All you need to do is pull it out,remove the pulley bolts (10mm) with an impact, pull the back bolts and pry the case apart with a screw driver and persuasion (or in my case a rubber mallet). Once you pull it apart you can spray it down with lube and wipe out any gunk with a cloth. When you go to assemble it make sure to get the shaft on the rear cover through all four sets of bearings that connect to the impeller blades. You should be able to spin the pump by hand and feel air come from the outlet tube. I just went through all of this last weekend, its a hell off a lot cheaper to pull it apart than buy a new one for $120 at O'reilly's. hope this helps.

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If you do have to keep your truck emissions legal the air pump comes apart pretty easy, and you can lube them up with about an hour or two worth of work. My '89 5.0 sat for a while and when I went to start it the air pump was squealing bad. All you need to do is pull it out,remove the pulley bolts (10mm) with an impact, pull the back bolts and pry the case apart with a screw driver and persuasion (or in my case a rubber mallet). Once you pull it apart you can spray it down with lube and wipe out any gunk with a cloth. When you go to assemble it make sure to get the shaft on the rear cover through all four sets of bearings that connect to the impeller blades. You should be able to spin the pump by hand and feel air come from the outlet tube. I just went through all of this last weekend, its a hell off a lot cheaper to pull it apart than buy a new one for $120 at O'reilly's. hope this helps.

 

I agree with blue, it would be cheaper to fix, but I wouldn't throw it away either. Some of these parts are getting hard to find.

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Cool!! I don't have to worry about it in my state. But I don't really want to keep up with a different size belt that what is supposed to go on there.

 

Taking it apart sounds like a much better idea.

 

Thanks guys.

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someone correct me if I'm wrong, but isnt there a replacement pully assembly you could buy to delete the air pump allowing the use of the standard belt? I could be wrong, but thought I ran across that somewhere.

 

 

Not much help I know, but if there is such an assembly, that could also be an option for you

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If you remove it you will most likely never pass an emissions test. One of it's main functions is to add oxygen to the CAT in order to allow it to burn off some of the pollutants caused by the combustion process. In the majority of the states, modification of the emissions control system is illegal except for, "Off road only", vehicles and "track only" vehicles. Those are a set of laws that are not strictly enforced and they are backed by Federal law. Just like cell phone laws they are in the list of things the police can get you for it they need extra revenue for the month. However, if you are in a state like California, they are strictly enforced. It's no big deal when you are in a largely rural area, but when you get into high density areas it becomes a major health problem for everyone including the owner of the polluting vehicle.

 

OK, off my soap box, it's your truck but I would recommend getting it fixed.

 

Good luck,

 

:)>-

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Hi. I know I'm jumping on this late, but I have an 89 with the 5.8, and my AIR system is broken. just behind the engine, almost in the center, there is a hose that is disconnected. It is a rubber hose that should be connecting to a piece of metal that connects the two exhaust banks together, but the connection has rusted thru. WHere can I get these parts (The metal piece and the hose, or does somebody have a suggestio for a work-around. Not like to bypass emissions, but I mean I don't care if it's factory as long as it works. I live in a state where emissions tests aren't done, but from reading these posts it looks like I want to keep this in place and functional. ANy help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

89_Bronco_Beast

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yo pav;

Welcome!

Look at these pics/diagram;

 

secondaryair58l.jpg

Crossover Tube, Diverter & Check Valves & Hoses Location Diagram in a 5.8

 

 

Crossover Tube, Diverter & Check Valve pic in an 88 5.0 Source: by Jem270 at SuperMotors.net

thermactor-tube.jpg

 

thermactor-tube-closeup.jpg

 

Crossover Tube, Diverter & Check Valve pic in an 88 5.0

Source: by 95F350XL (Chris) at fordtruckfanatics.com

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc167/Hot88MustangGT/Bronco/IMG_0418.jpg

 

---

 

Diverter & Bypass Valves, Hoses, Crossover Tube, EGR Valve, PCV Port & Smog Pump Location pic in an 88 F 150 5.0

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

emissionsv8.jpg

-----------

Secondary Air Injection System Diagram & Overview; by Steve

secondaryair.jpg

Secondary Air Injection system consists of a belt-driven Air Pump, single or dual AIR Diverter valve(s), an AIR Bypass valve, and AIR Bypass solenoids, air silencer/filter, Powertrain Control Module and connecting wires and vacuum hoses. The Belt-Driven Secondary Air Injection system provides either upstream/bypass air or upstream/downstream/bypass air. The number of these system configurations vary significantly with AIR Bypass and AIR Diverter valve combinations (Figure 179).

2. The PCM provides one or more signals that enable one or more AIR Bypass solenoids. 3. The AIR Bypass solenoids control one or more AIR Bypass valves and/or AIR Bypass Diverter Valves in order to route secondary air depending upon the specific configuration. 4. The belt-driven Air Pump is operational any time the engine is running.

read more @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/589993

 

Avail @ NAPA; or direct thru Manufacturer; PCI

Call PCI; great customer service!; and you can e mail em with the pic or diagram of what you need.

 

GL!

Edited by miesk5

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miesk5,

thank you! fantastic information, pictures and links. This helps tremendously. I think I've decided to buy the parts necessary to keep everything functioning. I'm also going to get a new cat to help keep things cleaner for everyone. Thanks again.

 

pav

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yw! And glad you came back here too.

 

And it's good that you'll get it back in-order; that helps air quality... which is no joke in LA and a lot of other places; and it will help the Bronco run a ok and make it possible to diagnose future problems ezier.

 

As for the cat; http://www.walkerexhaust.com

 

Here it is for your Bronco;

Walker Online Catalog

49-State (EPA) Converters Look-up

 

1989 Ford Bronco

Description:

8 - 5.8L Front & Rear

15142 37

Replaces Both Front and Rear Converters

8 - 5.8L Front & Rear 16120 25,37

 

Replaces Both Front and Rear Converters

8 - 5.8L Rear

15042 37

 

37 Fed. & Calif. Emiss. Models. Not legal for sale on vehicles licensed in the State of California.

25 Replaces Multiple O.E. Converters. Only Failed Converters May Be Replaced. See Catalytic Converter Installation Guide.

 

 

Part Number: 15142

Inlet Size/Configuration 2-1/2"

Outlet Size/Configuration 2-1/2"

Overall Length 18"

Catalytic Converter Type 2 Way/3 Way/3 Way + Air

Body Type Large Oval

Contents

Location

Type Universal

Features & Benefits Designed for aftermarket Pre-OBDII requirements in 49 states and CANADA

Best Balance of Performance and Price, Broad application coverage, Stainless steel body, Aluminized expandable bushings and heat shields

May Require Modifications to Complete Installation.

 

15142.gif

 

$123.99 @ JEGS

2.5'' In/Out, 18'' Long

15142 - Walker Super Converter

 

At Summit it is $125.95

================

Part Number: 16120

Inlet Size/Configuration 2"

Outlet Size/Configuration 2-1/4"

Overall Length 58"

Catalytic Converter Type

Body Type Large Oval

Contents

Location Main

Type Direct Fit

Features & Benefits O.E.-Style and design for quick "bolt-on" installation. Premium Quality Materials and Construction.

 

16120.gif

 

Price; one good source is rockauto.com

WALKER Part # 16120 {***No Longer Legal for Use in California***; Direct Fit}

Category: Catalytic Converter

$340.79

 

At Summitit is $351.69

---

I get www search prices such as above & then try to get local places to match or beat those prices incl S&H and taxes.

But, nearly all da mom & pop parts stores are gone around here now so; the local chain stores don't bargain. or their sales help is clueless and too busy.

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