while driving my 89 ford bronco with the 5.8L it will shut off only while driving not while in neutral. i have changed both of the fuel pumps, fuel pump relay, cap, rotor and wires, map sensor and fuel filter. when it stalls, i can usually stop and it will turn back on but sometimes it takes a while for it to restart. also when i am driving if sputters and loses power and before it dies and the check engine light flickers. Can anyone help me, thank you.
89 bronco stalls while driving
- Thread starter Mppitcher
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You might want to try and see if there are any codes (DTC's) to find your problem. here's a write-up on how to do it from our friend BroncoJoe19:
http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?sho...amp;#entry74587
http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?sho...amp;#entry74587
Seabronc
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>-
muddinlate86
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maybe a bad torq.conv not sure just throwing it out
Rob C
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BigBuckingChicken
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Had the exact same problem with my 86. The solution for me was the ignition module. Easy fix, less than $50.
Problem is that when the modules get too hot they kick off. Reason it will start again in a few minutes is that the module cools back down.
To get the module off you will need to take out the distributor (1 bolt) and the module is on the side. The socket you will need is either a 5.5 mm or something else all together. I ended up buying a specially designed tool for about $4 from an auto store and it did the trick.
When you put on the new one be sure to use the supplied silicone along the connection of the module and the distributor.
After this replacement my bronco has run solid for 2 months so I think I'm in the clear. May you have the same success.
:: for it is by grace you have been saved, through faith—and this not from yourselves, it is the gift of God— not by works, so that no one can boast ::
Problem is that when the modules get too hot they kick off. Reason it will start again in a few minutes is that the module cools back down.
To get the module off you will need to take out the distributor (1 bolt) and the module is on the side. The socket you will need is either a 5.5 mm or something else all together. I ended up buying a specially designed tool for about $4 from an auto store and it did the trick.
When you put on the new one be sure to use the supplied silicone along the connection of the module and the distributor.
After this replacement my bronco has run solid for 2 months so I think I'm in the clear. May you have the same success.
:: for it is by grace you have been saved, through faith—and this not from yourselves, it is the gift of God— not by works, so that no one can boast ::
Elmo
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Actually to replace just the module the distributer does not have to come out. The 5.5mm socket tool is a great help, the dizzy has to come out if replacing the ign pickup that the module plugs into.
AdamDude04
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Mine does the same thing..actually happened the other day. It was 96* and pure sun.
I drove on some slow back roads for awhile with the A/C on, windows up.
Truned off truck at liquor store, and it restarted but sputtered and kicked. Idled around 400rpm. Took about 40 minutes before it would restart an run like a champ.
Did this a couple years ago as well. Windows up, A/C on. Roughly 100* out. Slow stop/n/go traffic. All the sudden I gave it gas and it started to kick then stalled. Again, took about 30 minutes befoer it would restart.
I replaced the ECT sensor and I thought that was the cure..I'm lenaing to vapor lock.
I drove on some slow back roads for awhile with the A/C on, windows up.
Truned off truck at liquor store, and it restarted but sputtered and kicked. Idled around 400rpm. Took about 40 minutes before it would restart an run like a champ.
Did this a couple years ago as well. Windows up, A/C on. Roughly 100* out. Slow stop/n/go traffic. All the sudden I gave it gas and it started to kick then stalled. Again, took about 30 minutes befoer it would restart.
I replaced the ECT sensor and I thought that was the cure..I'm lenaing to vapor lock.
BigBuckingChicken
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True, you would not have to take out the distributor, but I found it easier that way. When I say take out, I mean loosen the bolt and twist 90 degrees so the module comes center. You should be able to let the wires stay as is.
@adam :: did you try the module yet?
@adam :: did you try the module yet?
AdamDude04
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Have not tried the module yet..
I'd assume if that was the problem, mine would occur more often then on just hot days, with the A/C on in slow traffic/back streets.
I'd assume if that was the problem, mine would occur more often then on just hot days, with the A/C on in slow traffic/back streets.
BigBuckingChicken
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Do what you will, but I would say just pop off the module and see if the silicone has gone crusty on you. If you have a bunch of white gunk it would be worth the $30 to throw a new one on. Again, do what you will, but give that a shot before doing anything more expensive.
AdamDude04
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I'll give it a whirl.. I'm moving 1,300 miles in a few weeks and the bronco be towing a 6x12' loaded trailer so I'm going to make sure everything is up to par. It's an easy check I agree.
Last thing I want is to be stuck in the mountains, in 20* cold with a stalled bronco. Though we'll have my girly in the other car but still lol Hefty tow bill I'm sure!!
andre
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module good investement
on left front of inner plastick wheel weld all main conector are ok
my f150 ad coroder wire clean it no more problem
on left front of inner plastick wheel weld all main conector are ok
my f150 ad coroder wire clean it no more problem
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my 91 has same problem only when driving slow up and down hills in the woods. i stop turn the engine off, wait 1 min and restart, it runs great for a short time. it does not have any problem when driving on smooth roads at highway speeds. a i just bought the ign module and plan to install soon.
i've had tro finding 5.5mm that will fit into ***** hole.
gmac
i've had tro finding 5.5mm that will fit into ***** hole.
gmac
so much for the ign module, problem not solved. guess i'll pull the gas tank and look for a cracked line or trash at the inlet filter.
you must use a 5.5 thin wall deep socket to remove the ign module. GOOD LUCK
gmac
tan&brown-bronco
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im new to the site and just want to tell everyone thanks for the information i changed my ignition module and so far so good it no longer cuts out i would like to throw out a little more info out there . you dont have to remove the distributor to change out the ignition module just loosen the bolt on top i used a size 13 socket and i used a mirror and a flash light to look at what type of tool i needed to remove the module from the distributor and it was a alan wrench type of bolt i dont know what size it is but it was small hope this helps some one out like the info on this blog helped me out
I have had the same problem only when its hot,every time I think the problem is solved the temp drops and it runs like a champ. I have replaced ignition modules on sight and it not start up until it cools. I even relocated the module and put cooling fins on it and it still stalls. I'm putting a coil pick up on it right now. I will let you know the next hot day.
Krafty
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you know you're supposed to put thermal paste between the icm and the distributor base.
Rons beast
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All our trucks are now pretty old. If you change a module you might as well change the pickup in the dist. too. You wouldn't change a fuel pump and leave an old filter.
If our trucks were just 3, 5, or even 7 yrs old I would say just change the module, but everything electronic is getting old.
If our trucks were just 3, 5, or even 7 yrs old I would say just change the module, but everything electronic is getting old.
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