31 spline axles stock in a 9 inch axle?

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Broncosaurus!

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Hello, I'm setting up my Bronco to skid logs for my grandfather and I'm looking to put a spool in my 9 inch rear diff, My question is are the stock axles 31 spline? I'm pretty sure they are but I don't have time to waste returning an incorrect spool. Also I've heard it was relatively easy to install a full spool, no high tech measuring devices needed right? I have never pulled apart a differential and I'm looking forward to it. The search feature was working for awhile, but now it seems to have given up on life.

Thanks guys

 

bidibronco

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Actually a spool is just like putting in a "new" carrier and you'll have to pull the ring off the old carrier and put it on the spool. A mini spool however, goes in place of your spider gears and doesn't let them spin whereas "locking" the axles together. Kind of like a "Lincoln" locker, you know, when you just weld the spiders? Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm sure that's how it goes.

 
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Broncosaurus!

Broncosaurus!

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I'm going to pull the third member and put the spool in myself, and then probably just take it to the ford place in town and have them set the backlash and mesh and all that. I need to pull some c clips to be able to pull the axle shafts out right? What is the best way to do that without losing them? Do I need new C clips too?

 

Justshootme84

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Read the article in the link I just posted. Best advice I can give is to pull the whole carrier, take it to Ford or a shop and have them install the spool. There are no C-clips holding the axles in, they just slide out once you remove the 4 bolts on the ends. JSM84

Edit: the 9" chunk pictured inthat article has a full spool. No spider gears. As you can see, the ring gear bolts directly to thte spool, so it locks both side together 100% of the time. A min-spool works similar, except it retains the spider gears.

 
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Broncosaurus!

Broncosaurus!

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Ok, well I understand how the spool and mini spool work more thoroughly and I guess I will be taking the third member in for the install :( /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

BLADE262US

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A mini spool doesnt retain any of the spider or side gears . You take all of that out . The pin that used to be the axle pin for the spiders now is the lock pin for the minispool to the stock carrier . I have a 31 spline unit here brand new if interested and you can easily do it yourself . If you do the full spool you do have to reset gear backlash . :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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Broncosaurus!

Broncosaurus!

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Thanks blade but i just ordered a full spool this morning, I plan to take the third member to a local shop and have them do the technical work.

is the full spool much stronger than the mini? or is it lighter overall, what is the big advantage and why does it cost double for a full spool?

 

BLADE262US

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A full spool is stronger it replaces everything your not going to like it on pavement it will eventually tear up the rear end , When you turn the inside tire travels less distance than the outside . When there locked together your going to drag the outside tire no way around it . The minispool is weaker because even though it replaces the spiders and side gears the coupling link between the gears and the axles is now that big pin that used to hold the spiders so theres your weak link if anything is going to break it will more than likely be that pin . A mini is very easy to install but your best bet would have been a detroit easy locker less money than a full locking rear end , no setup cost , Can do it yourself in a couple hours , and itll give when you turn so its easier on your tires . :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

Broncobill78

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your best bet would have been a detroit easy locker less money than a full locking rear end , no setup cost , Can do it yourself in a couple hours , and itll give when you turn so its easier on your tires . :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
Well, yes & no.

It might take someone with experience a *couple* of hours but you've still got to set the contact pattern for the ring & pinion and that's easier said than done (well, for ME at any rate <grin>I've tried it twice on my own & at this point I'll willing to concede the point & pay someone to do that part of the job for me). Also, I've run a few Detroit Lockers and while they're pretty freaking awesome in an F350, or *any* long-wheelbase truck for that matter, the Bronco's short wheelbase keeps the thing locked up most of the time and you usually drag one of the rear tires thru just about every turn. Granted they unlock a whole lot more often than a spool does. A nice option with the 31 spline shafts is to get a set that's been heat-treated & hardened A spool/locker equiped 9" with hardened shafts is an almost indestructable thing of beauty. The only thing that could possibly make it better would be to convert it to a full floater & add a weld-on longitudinal brace/truss. That's the sort of thing you build & install and then forget about because it *isn't* going to break. Also, Dynatrac (the Detroit Locker guys) now has a *mechanical* limited slip. No more of those damn clutch packs to wear out, it uses helical gears to engage. It's a really slick little unit that's just as tough as the Locker. The info's just for future refrence anyways, he mentioned ordering a spool for it already.

 
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Broncosaurus!

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Yeah I will have to put up some pictures when i'm done building it, I setting it up to skid logs for my grandfather on our tree farm, lots of pine but plenty of oak too. So it will be off road all the time and just stay locked in 4 low with chains on the tires more than likely. My question now is should i put the like new 31 BFG muds with chains on or 33 half worn BFG muds with no chains, or should i get chains for the 33s? The tires hit the radius arm already with the 33s, seems like it would be worse with chains, do those wheel spacers help with the radius arm rub at all?

 

Broncobill78

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Well $hit, I STILL have to admire the Broncosaurus moniker, but back to the topic at hand (after I post yet another photo of the original & most awesome Broncosaurus to date. Had to man, lost 3 (read that again, THREE) fairly hot girls over this truck, I feel entitled, especially since one had special talents). In THIS case I'd think the 33's would be the better choice since they actually lower final gear ratio and give you more torque for pulling at low speeds (which is what I'd assume you're doing since I've seen my share of skidders). Yup, the chains might be a bitch and spacers might help with that, but to be honest I'd probably invest in a set of bias-ply ground hawgs, Super swampers or a similar agressive mud tread. The Bias-Ply tires are STILL available and probably 70% of what a radial costs and for a strictly off-road rig they should pretty much last a lifetime as well as being able to be patched & plugged a WHOLE lot easier than radials with no cords to cut the plug. Just my $0.02. Without the heavy lug tires I'd at least TRY the spacers and chains but I *really* don't think the 31's will make anyone happy. ****, you can trim the $hit out of the fenders and run 35's for an even BETTER final ratio (for what you're doing anyways) as well as getting access to better mud-tires. PLENTY of used tires out there if you look.

Broncosaurus_001.jpg

 
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Broncosaurus!

Broncosaurus!

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Is there a trick to getting the axles out after removing the 4 ****** bolts? I hammered on it and pulled as hard as I could but to no avail

I love the 78-9 Broncos, especially the original flat bug deflector, man that will always look cool

 
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Broncobill78

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Is there a trick
Yes, there is. You need you a slide-hammer to get those puppies out. The bearing is pressed onto the shaft & the bearing retainer (that thingie with the 4 bolts) holds it all together and it sort-of presses the splines into the diff when it's installed so it also acts like a kind of mini-press as well as a retainer. You'll never get the shafts out *without* a slide-hammer.

 
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Broncosaurus!

Broncosaurus!

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Borrowed a slide hammer from autozone and the axle shafts were out in just a few whacks, now to pull the third member, what a beast! I can barely get it to move, those brass washers seem pretty well stuck in place, do I need to remove them before I can get the third member assembly out? I rigged up the slide hammer to the pinion yoke and still cant get it to budge.

 

Broncobill78

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Yup, those chucks can be a bear to get out. More than likely it's never been removed. When I've had one stick like this I used the driveshaft U-bolts to secure a 4ft pipe to the yoke & then got my shoulder under it to break the seak from the gasket. If you have a long enuf pip you can center it & then work either end with your feet or shoulder. I've also had a friend use a small come-along on the transfer case to pull it out, but that seemed like a lot of work to me.

 
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Broncosaurus!

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pipe in the yoke, good idea, I have a come along just in case however. Worst part is it is twenty degrees inside the garage and the kerosene heater is waiting for parts, hands are numb before I can accomplish anything.

 
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Broncosaurus!

Broncosaurus!

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I see that, what part of the famed treasure coast are you in, I move to Daytona Beach for flight school in June, can't wait, driving the Yota to phoenix for a 2 months of school first and then to FL

 

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