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Ball joints on '95 Bronco

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...got a good deal, but she needs a little TLC. Wondering how difficult it is to change out the passenger side ball joints in my sparcely equipped garage, or maybe worth paying a shop to do it. I can handle most issues, and done my share of ball joints, but thought I'd inquire here first.


Thanx, Beardly



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If you are doing one side, you should do both sides. In fact, with the amount of teardown required, you should do all four while you have it apart. Otherwise, you will be tearing it all apart again in a few months when one of the other 12 year old ball joints goes bad. That being said, it's not a terribly difficult job, but it is time consuming and therefore will run around $400 to get it done in a shop.


Here is an excellent write-up with photos. Click Here!


His truck was a little older than your '95 so you will also have to remove the front wheel speed sensors (if your truck has 4 wheel ABS). They can be a real PITA to get out due to rust/corosion making them still in the holes. Everything else is just like in the write-up.


The only "special" tools you will need will be a spanner socket for the spindle nut on your particular truck, (about $10-$15) and a ball joint press which some parts stores will allow you to "rent" when you purchase the ball joints from them. You can also take the knuckles to a machine shop to have the old joints pressed out and new ones pressed in but I have no idea what that would cost.


Good luck with your project and welcome to BroncoZone! :D

Edited by Roadkill

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Here is a 95 ball joint (didn't want to abbreviate it or use the acronym! lol) replacement w/the ABS SensorBall Joint Replacement with pics in a 95 (axles removed only for gear replacement) Source: by Ian S (stangmata50l, Bronco)


Pls add your Bronco's engine/tranny/Xfer case & locking hub types to you signature for future better replies...


If you have the 3 screw auto hubs;

Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque for 95-96 Auto Hubs; While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 N-m (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn).Tighten to 1.8 N-m (16 Lb-In)."

Source: by miesk5 (Al M)


from me... via Ford Tech CD for 95/96 Bronco - 3 screw auto locking hubs:


1. Align the fixed cam retaining key on the cam assembly (garter spring inboard) with the keyway on the spindle. Firmly press the cam assembly on the wheel retainer nut.

2. CAUTION: Improper sequence of three-piece thrust washers will result in excessive wear of assembly.

Install three-piece thrust washer set (first metal, second plastic, third splined) and retainer lock ring on C-clip. It may be necessary to push the axle outboard from backside of knuckle. Be sure retaining ring is seated in groove properly.

3. CAUTION: Rotate moving cam stop (use any one of three) to the one o'clock position in relationship to the fixed cam retaining key.

CAUTION: Do not force body assembly into front disc brake hub on rotor if body assembly will not fit. Recheck alignment of all components.

Note: The hubs should not be packed with grease. Too much grease will damage the hubs and prevent proper operation.

Install body assembly into vehicle front disc brake hub and rotor by lining up the three legs outside the hublock body with the three pockets in the cam assembly.

4. Make sure body assembly is in far enough to see groove in rotor tube. Install large lock ring into groove of hub. Be sure lock ring is correctly seated.

5. Install cap to body assembly. Install three capscrews and tighten to 4-6 N-m (35-53 lb-in)."

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