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89Bronco58

alt upgrade

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LOOKING TO PUT A HIGHER AMP ALT ON MY TRUCK, ADVANCE HAS A 100 AMP AND A 140 AMP, I BELIEVE MINE IS A 70 AMP NOW, BUT I NEED MORE DUE TO EXTRA LIGHTS AND ELECTRIC FAN ETC, DOES ANYONE KNPOW HOW MUCH HIGHER IN AMPERAGE I CAN G0 without cooking my wires, and also advance wants 200 for the 100 amp one, and 300 for the 140 amp one, anyone know a better deal??

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LOOKING TO PUT A HIGHER AMP ALT ON MY TRUCK, ADVANCE HAS A 100 AMP AND A 140 AMP, I BELIEVE MINE IS A 70 AMP NOW, BUT I NEED MORE DUE TO EXTRA LIGHTS AND ELECTRIC FAN ETC, DOES ANYONE KNPOW HOW MUCH HIGHER IN AMPERAGE I CAN G0 without cooking my wires, and also advance wants 200 for the 100 amp one, and 300 for the 140 amp one, anyone know a better deal??

yo, http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/ford_early_style.html

 

Alternator Selection Guide

PM 200amp, around $350.00

 

PM 130amp... around $ 249.95

 

search www for best price.

 

get harness cables upgrade as well

 

Alternator, 130 amp (3G) Installation in an 89 Source: by Tim C (Crazed, Broke, OoG, Street Truck)

 

MORE INFO in my Bronco Links site for you

 

Ryan sells it all..talk to him to find out delivery date....he has been overloaded a lot...Alternator, 200 amp (3G) Installation, Torque Specs, Parts Break-Out Diagram, etc. Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

 

GL!

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I don't like doing this, but in fairness to people trying to get stuff from Ryan, I have had some bad experience with him. If I were the only one who had such experience, I would not put my .02 in here.

 

Ryan is a real good source of information, but there are always complaints about delivery of products ordered from him. He takes the money and sends an email indicating the parts are on the way and they nerve show up. If he were up front on availability when you order, that is one thing, but he is not and does not respond to emails requesting status. After waiting 3 months for some parts, I finally had to file a complaint through PayPal which after another 4 weeks resulted in him finally sending my money back so I could get the stuff I wanted from some other source. "CAVEAT EMPTOR"

 

Good luck,

 

:)>-

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I swapped in a rebuilt 3G alternator(130 amp) from a '91 F350 and it works great and for only 52 bucks at a local junkyard it was a good deal

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i have had my new 140 amp 3 g alternator in my truck for about a week now, at first it didnt do anything, then i ran another ground to the headlights, cleaned the existing grounds, and any other ground i could fine, it worked perfectly for a few days, NOW the guage is dipping down into the red when im just driving, dont even have the lights on, nothing is on besides what is needed to run the truck...im getting really aggrivated

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Did you replace the alt's wiring harness?

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no its a single wire one, it came with the new charge wire which i ran to ym battery, and all i had to do was cut my one wire off of my existing plug and connect it to the new alts tab for the guage to work

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no its a single wire one, it came with the new charge wire which i ran to ym battery, and all i had to do was cut my one wire off of my existing plug and connect it to the new alts tab for the guage to work

ok, thanks for replying so quickly!

All I can offer from here now is:

Alternator & Charging System Troubleshooting Source: by forparts.com

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more from thirskauto.net

"In many cases, soon after a new alternator has been installed, it is found to have failed prematurely. We will try to highlight some of the probable causes of premature failure. We have included illustrations of some common problems.

 

Because many of the new alternators are capable of charging at rates in excess of 110 Amps, the battery should be fully charged before use to avoid overheating the alternator by trying to use it as a battery charger. Alternators are NOT battery chargers, they are battery maintainers as well as supplying current for vehicle amenities. Symptoms of this type of damage are a burnt stator.

 

In many newer vehicles, the alternator is located in an area that allows very little ventilation. The area around the rectifier on the back of the alternator plugs up with dirt and fibers, causing the unit to overheat.

 

Rear alternator bearing failure may be caused by over tightening the belt or a seized belt tensioner. The bearing is retained in the alternator by either an aluminum ring or a plastic retainer, which under pressure, will collapse.

 

Drive belt slippage may cause overheating and bearing damage.

 

Thread damage on the rotor of the alternator is caused by improper pulley installation methods.

 

Cracked terminal insulators are cuased by over tightening the terminal nuts.

 

Improper changing of the alternator clock postion may result in broken brushes and brush holders."

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my battery was fully charged, and it does charge the truck fine, just seems the guage might be faulty or soemthing idk, somedays the guage shows a perfect strong charge, others its in the red, other days its okay until i turn on an accesorry and then it dips down, it even dips down with the blinker blinking

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my battery was fully charged, and it does charge the truck fine, just seems the guage might be faulty or soemthing idk, somedays the guage shows a perfect strong charge, others its in the red, other days its okay until i turn on an accesorry and then it dips down, it even dips down with the blinker blinking

ok, do you have a voltmeter to test V output under different accessory loads? from nothing on exc engine running, then radio, and so on...

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everything was good and fine for a few days, i had the radio screamin, subs pounding, lights on, ac on high, truck driving, then outta nowhere guage back to the red, but it charges and starts up fine, maybe i have a bad ground, id like to run an additional ground, just gotta figure out where to run it to

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do you have a ground "metal strap" on engine passenger side block, etc. as shown in this pic; ...it has a large nut holding strap

IMG_0029.JPG

 

by Patrick N..."4. I connected both of my grounds to this post on the block, behind the alternator. My stock ground wire way falling apart and the nut holding it on was totally inaccessable"

 

on our 96, this strap and bolt was rusty..took nut off. cleaned it all up and used Electr. dielectical grease on all connections

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yes i have a ground there, and one going down to the frame where my steering stabilizers bolt on, but the intake is aluminum so i think maybe a ground to the block might be better

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ok, inspect that strap, and where it leads - in both directions and do what it needs...gl!

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it goes from the negative on the battery to the upper intake, i think i need to run one from the block to the frame, and then from there to the negative on the battery maybe idk, i hate wiring issues

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it goes from the negative on the battery to the upper intake, i think i need to run one from the block to the frame, and then from there to the negative on the battery maybe idk, i hate wiring issues

ok; as in this pic in Chris's 87?

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/116215/...ze/000_0094.jpg

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damn! had this and forgot about Malcolm's info!...

Ground Wire Upgrade, using O Gauge Welding Cable in an 86

Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer)

"Using "O" gauge welding cable I ran it back, tie wrapped inside the frame, to a common grounding junction which also connects to the negative post of the battery. No more grounding interuptions !"

 

&

Ground Troubleshooting, using a DVOM, Ford

Source: by Marlowe P at asashop.org

"The only two things that can cause this problem are a faulty PIP sensor or a poor ignition ground. The PIP sensor was new so it was probably OK. I asked the technician to back-probe the bottom wire on the module's connector (ignition ground) to check the voltage while cranking. It read 4 VDC! The bottom wire of the module connector gets its ground from the engine through the module and distributor. The PIP sensor uses this ground to pull PIP low, to zero VDC.

 

I asked him to attach the positive lead of his DVOM to the engine block and the negative lead to battery negative, and then to crank the engine while looking for voltage. Sure enough, he had 4 VDC at the engine block! Because of this, the PIP voltage could only cycle from 10.5 VDC to 4.0 volts. The fact is, with a poor ignition ground, the module doesn't charge the coil. The result is a no-spark condition.

 

What we found was a voltage drop between the battery negative post and the engine block due to a poor connection between the block and the battery negative cable. With the starter engaged and loading the battery, the poor connection was adding a major resistance to the circuit.

 

Then I asked the technician to run a jumper cable between the engine block and battery negative. I heard the engine roar to life. The technician told me that before fixing the no-spark condition, the vehicle also had problems with the starter dragging. But no more! "

 

Ground Article, Ford

Source: by Richard M at motorage.com

 

Ground Bus Info & pics in an 83

Source: by Seabronc

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I swapped in a rebuilt 3G alternator(130 amp) from a '91 F350 and it works great and for only 52 bucks at a local junkyard it was a good deal

 

$52?!?!?!

What Boneyard did you go to?

I got mine from a '96 Ford Taurus for the 130amp 3G alt. swap. It cost $31 for the Alt, Harness and a 4 Ga. cable, WITH WARRANTY. From Picked-A-Part off Milliken.

(For install, see links provided above)

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turns out the stock guage was just abd the whole time, lol that sucks, i smacked the dash hard and it went right back into the safe charging zone and outta the red, i smacked it again, went down in the red, so bad guage after all of that, aftermarket guage time :D

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