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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size
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walkdawg

Oil Pump?

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I am planning on changing my oil pan gasket this weekend and thought I would just go ahead and change the oil pump. Which one you think I should get:

OIL PUMP for a

1989 FORD TRUCK BRONCO

Normal Stock

Special Order

Not Available

 

 

 

Item Part

No.

Warranty Core

Value Unit

Price Availability

Store Web

MELLING M-68 3 MO $15.99

 

MELLING

HIGH PRESSURE M-68A 3 MO $43.99

 

MELLING

HIGH VOLUME M-68HV 3 MO $35.99

 

MELLING

HIGH VOLUME 10688 3 MO $57.99

SHAFTS ARE EXTENDED INTO BOTTOM COVER FOR SUPPORT.

RELIEF VALVE CUP PLUG HAS BEEN REPLACED BY A SCREW IN

PLUG. INCLUDE I/S SHAFT. MAY REQUIRE MINOR OIL PAN (MORE...)

 

MELLING

OIL PUMP KIT K-68 3 MO $24.99

EXCEPT HIGH VOLUME & HIGH PRESSURE

 

MELLING

OIL PUMP KIT K-68A 3 MO $23.99

USE WITH HIGH PRESSURE PUMP

 

MELLING

STANDARD VOLUME 10687 3 MO $58.99

SHAFTS ARE EXTENDED INTO BOTTOM COVER FOR SUPPORT.

RELIEF VALVE CUP PLUG HAS BEEN REPLACED BY A SCREW IN

PLUG. INCLUDE I/S SHAFT. MAY REQUIRE MINOR OIL PAN (MORE...)

 

HI_TECH OM-68 2 YR $29.99

 

HI_TECH

HIGH PRESSURE OM-68-A 2 YR $49.99

 

HI_TECH

HIGH VOLUME OM-68-HV 2 YR $36.99

 

Thanks for you Help

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I allways use the high volume oil pumps from melling. It just depends on you're budget.

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Thanks I didn't care about the cost. Those prices are all good for me I just wanted to get a good one. Question is high pressure better the high volume or which is better? I was going to get the mells high volume but wasn't sure which would be better for the engine.

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High Volume, in your stock form you don't need the high pressure. Warning though if your truck sees over 5500 RPM, you will suck the pan dry.

 

If money isn't an object, I would go ahead and grab a "pick up" also($28).

 

If you plan on doing this with the engine in the truck, let me warn you, this is one bear of a project. With the engine all the way up, you still only have enough room to fit an open end wrench on the oil pump bolts, 1/4 turn at a time, and the oil pump has to come out to get the pan out. You have to drop your exhaust also. Getting the pump out is easy compared to putting it back in.

 

While your in there, go ahead and replace your Main, and Rod Bearings. $46 is cheap insurance. Pull one of each to make sure the crank hasn't been turned already, before you pick up the new ones.

 

Use a glob of heavy grease on the end of the pump shaft to get it to stay up in the block(distributor shaft) while you reinstall the pump.

 

Also get the one piece pan gasket(if you are not pulling the engine) it comes with 4 nifty little holders, that makes installation a breeze.

 

I speak from experience, If I had to do it again...I would pull the engine.

 

One more thing, since you are pulling the oil pan, get a long engine cleaning brush, and clean your drain back holes under the vale covers. when you get the pan out you can get the crud.

 

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

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Thanks for the advice. I guess its going to be a bear of a task then. I guess I could get my buddys cherry picker and lift the engine out. I plan to change my valve cover gaskets also. They are leaking alittle. I plan to change the allot of stuff this weekend to get her running smoother. I have only had it for a little while and have done a small tune up and oil change but the oil pan gasket leaks the valve cover gaskets leak its only a little but its more then I want. I have many projects I am going to be doing over then 6 months or so. I will tell you all as I do them. I will be asking for more advice down the road. Thank you all again.

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You betcha, working in that area without taking the engine out will probably make you wish you never started. Just crawl under there and take a look at what you have to deal with if you haven't already. Pull the engine and do all the above, and while you are at it rebuild the whole thing. Easier yet is go buy a long block from Auto zone and put your stuff on it if money is no object. Cost is around 950.00 for a long block.

 

Good luck,

 

:)>-

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If you are gonna use a "cherry picker", take the front wheels off, and set the knuckles on boards. The engine won't clear the truck with a engine hoist.

 

Also make sure you have dedicated help. this is not a one man job for a weekend project.

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No money is a problem I was just saying that i could get anyof the oil pumps no problem. I might be able to get a few of the other things suggested like the bearings but I was just really out to just fix the leaks and while i had the pan down i thought I would change the oil pan. I do plan to rebuild the engine in about year or so. I know the upper half was just done about 2 years ago and the timing chain was changed then also. You think I should just hold off until then to fix the leak and changing the oil pump. The leak is just a small from when they changed the timing chain and didn't seal it right. I am only changing it so I do not leak oil all over give me your advice. I am going to rebuild after I do my lift and tires. Thanks evryone!!

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Yes, if you have future plans to rebuild, than just change the gasket. If you use the one piece, the pan doesn't have to come out, but you will still need to lift your engine enough to get you hands in to work the gasket aroung the oil pump, and pickup.

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