The BEAST is DEAD!

Shadow_D · Mar 18, 2007

As most of you know I have been having a lot of trouble with the Beast over the last two year or so.

Usually it has been that fuel pump relay and recently the wire going to the coil. Now she is flooding out bad.

I have spent over $10K on her over the last 6 years and I am starting to think enough is enough. I haven't decided if I am going to sell her yet but I might. I am looking to buy a new vehicle to use as my DD that will be better on gas but I am finding it very difficult to sell the old girl. I may still keep her as a "play toy" so long as I can fix her cheaply.

I know there are electrical issues with all Broncos under the hood and I think that is the problem with mine.

I have replaced the....

1) Fuel pump relay and pigtail

2) Coil

3) Fuel Filter

4) Fuel stations (where I get gas)

5) Fuel pump was replaced about 4 years ago

I'm running out of ideas short of replacing the wiring harness under the hood but I can't find one, they don't even have it at Jeff's BG.

Anyone else come across this problem? Help me keep my Beast Please! [-o<

wtfdissux · Mar 18, 2007

can symathize with your dilema as I have close to that and still have not gotten around to what I "want" to do (mainly the body)

also have not heard of the 'electrical' problems that run rampant under the hood most of what I have seen and dealt with are vacuume and emisions crap but not to sound like a vulture but let me know a price if you decide to go that route

on an after thaught did you replace the fuel presure regulater and which fuel pump did you replace the low presure one in the tank or high presure one on the frame

Yardape · Mar 18, 2007

A '90 should only have one pump and its in the tank.

wtfdissux · Mar 18, 2007

did not know that ooooops!

Yardape · Mar 18, 2007

'89 was last for the dual pumps, some may have made it into the early part of 1990 but none that I know of. Shadow if you rule everything out I think I have the wiring harness still from my '90. Have to dig it out to see what I still have. Moved not to long ago so everything is still packed out there. I'm pretty sure it has a 302 computer still attached to it as well so can't help with the computer part of it. Check your fuel regulator like wtfdissux suggested

Seabronc · Mar 18, 2007

If you are looking for a harness, try http://www.ronfrancis.com. If you don't see it in their catalog, give them a call. They are probably your best bet for rewiring a Ford.

>-

wtfdissux · Mar 19, 2007

also check green mountain supply they also carry a lot of reproduction and obsolete ford parts dont know the web address but should be easy to find

Shadow_D · Mar 19, 2007

Thanks for the info guys;

WTFDISSUX: I haven't checked the fuel pressure regulator yet but I will when I get the Beast back to my house, also I haven't found that website yet (I found Green Mt. Coffee and Green Mt. brushes lol)

SEABRONC: I have an email in to Ron to see if they can help.

Yardape: I will keep your harness in mind if Ron wants too much.

wtfdissux · Mar 19, 2007

ok was a little off with the name

http://www.greensalescompany.com/

also try:

http://www.classicautoparts.com/

http://mcdonaldparts.com/

good luck

Shadow_D · Apr 27, 2007

Hi guys:

I guess I should give you all an update...

I still have not gotten the Beast back to my house, it's still sitting at work. Last time I tried to run it all it would do is load up and stall when I touched the throttle. I ran it last night and it seemed to run better :huh: I'm gonna try to get it back home this weekend (Boss... "When are you going to get the POS Ford out of the back lot?").

I haven't been in a hurry to get it fixed because I bought a new toy / DD, call me a trader if you will but I now own a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am GT that is awesome on gas http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2603598/

I will keep you posted...

miesk5 · Apr 27, 2007

yo Shadow!

FPR Testing:

A high pressure fuel tester must be connected to the fuel relief valve on the fuel rail (usually a Schrader valve). First relieve fuel system pressure, then attach the tester. Next, turn the key on (engine off) to prime the fuel system. There should be 36-42PSI of pressure. Start the engine. The pressure at idle should remain within the same range. Rev the engine a few times to ensure fuel pressure remains constant. Excess pressure usually determines a faulty FPR. Too little pressure could be the FPR, fuel filter, fuel pumps, or a leak.

Hang in there and hope it works out for you.

Shadow_D · Apr 27, 2007

miesk5 said:
yo Shadow!FPR Testing:

A high pressure fuel tester must be connected to the fuel relief valve on the fuel rail (usually a Schrader valve). First relieve fuel system pressure, then attach the tester. Next, turn the key on (engine off) to prime the fuel system. There should be 36-42PSI of pressure. Start the engine. The pressure at idle should remain within the same range. Rev the engine a few times to ensure fuel pressure remains constant. Excess pressure usually determines a faulty FPR. Too little pressure could be the FPR, fuel filter, fuel pumps, or a leak.

Hang in there and hope it works out for you.

Cool, I'll try that.

Thanks

Shadow_D · Sep 4, 2007

Ok folks time for another update...

I have the Beast home, been home for a couple of months, and have been starting to do a little here and there. I replaced the FPR and that seems to have cleared up the flooding issue but I'm not 100% yet because when I went to go for a test drive I blew a brake line.

I've been trying to get the front tires off for the last week or two (been too hot lately) with no luck, I finally used a torch the other day and got the lug nuts off. I still need to get my locking lug off, can't find the key and just about crushed my finger in the process of looking.

Once I get the wheels off I can replace the brake lines and then I can take it out for a test drive to see what else I need to replace.

Sitting in the driveway she seems to still be running rough but that might be from sitting for so long. I'll keep ya posted.

Thanks for the info guys.

wtfdissux · Sep 23, 2007

for getting the lugs off track down a snap-on or mac tool truck they carry a socket that will remove rounded nuts lock nuts( without a key) etc. BTW how far is Schenectady from Buffalo and let me know if your still thinking about letting the truck go might be easier to take the good from mine and transfering than it is fixing mine

Shadow_D · Sep 23, 2007

Well I just finished working on the Beast and I have her back to life

/ She still needs a little bit of work, still looping when cold but the flooding problem is fixed (fuel pressure regulator) and I need to fix some wiring under the hood but she is alive again. I'm planning to use her to go to work tomorrow and the next day just to shake out the bugs. I have a big project coming up that I need the trailer for and the Beast is the only way I can move it. I am thinking if I get everything fixed so I can use her for the winter because I don't want to use the GT in the snow.

I just broke the lugs off and replaced the nuts and studs.

Shadow_D · Apr 26, 2008

I know it's been a while sense I've posted to this thread but most recent update...

I drove Beast for a while then brought it in for it's annual NYS Inspection and it failed for a loose wheel bearing

/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I haven't had the time lately to get it fixed and there was too much snow, ice, water and wind in my driveway so she sat for the winter. I'm going to bring her up to a friends place that has better equipment to work with and get her inspected.

When I was driving her she was strong but still had the looping. I'm going to replace the fuel filter and maybe the EGR valve and that should clean things up.

I just want to thank everyone for there help with this.

BroncoJoe19 · Apr 26, 2008

Shadow_D said:
When I was driving her she was strong but still had the looping. I'm going to replace the fuel filter and maybe the EGR valve and that should clean things up.

Hey Shadow_D,

Although I am kinda new at these new computer controlled engines, I have learned alot over the past 4 months. Engine looping or surging at idle is often caused by vacuum leak(s). It may also be caused by your IAC, or TPS, and maybe by your MAP sensor.

Why don't you pull codes so that you get pointed in the right direction?

IF you want to send me a PM, I'll help to walk you through it.

ITMT, here is an article that I like about pulling codes.

Please see post #6 of this thread

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=73751

I'll help you out anyway I can Shadow

/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

joe

Shadow_D · Apr 30, 2008

Well there is the problem, the battery has died a couple of times now so the codes are gone at this point

/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> I have to get it inspected so I can drive it for a few days to get them back *hopefully*

Once I get it back on the road, I'll update everyone so I can see just what is going on...

Thanks

Darrin

BroncoJoe19 · Apr 30, 2008

Shadow_D said:
Well there is the problem, the battery has died a couple of times now so the codes are gone at this point /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> I have to get it inspected so I can drive it for a few days to get them back *hopefully*
Once I get it back on the road, I'll update everyone so I can see just what is going on...

Thanks

Darrin

OK Darrin,

ITMT (when you get a chance) you can take a look at your vacuum hoses and if they are dry rotted, cracked, or loose, replace them, Sometimes if they are loose, one can simply cut the stretched part off and reattach them.

Look in particular at the hoses that are at the base of your throttle body assembly, and the ones that goes to the IAC, and the one that controls/monitors the EGR Valve Position (EVP).

WHen you get a fresh battery in her, you can still do the first part of the KeyOnEngineOff (KOEO) sequence of the self test. That checks a number of sensors and actuators, right there on the spot, and it doesn't require that the engine had been running.

I am in the process of writing a tutorial that hopefully will be more clear than the other ones I read.

joe

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