yo BillyBronco586,
WELCOME TO THE ZONE!
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
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White smoke or water vapor from the exhaust. Since you have white smoke coming from the exhaust when you start the Bronco. If it is cold out, this is normal. And bec. the white smoke disappears after the Bronco warms up, all is ok
But (for posterity) if smoke continue after Bronco reaches normal operating temp.:
White/Gray Smoke: White exhaust smoke is an indication that coolant is burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible causes:
Cylinder Head: A crack in the cylinder head (around the coolant jacket) will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Engine Block: A crack in the deck of an engine block near the coolant jacket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Head Gasket: A damaged or blown head gasket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber resulting in white/gray smoke coming from the tailpipe.
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This is one of the best troubleshooting procedures for Cranks but Does Not FIRE Condition, take time to read and get some cheap stuff @ Radio Shack; Radio Shack #276-0270 Red LED Assembly $2.49 and extra wire and 2 alligator clips; 12 Volt Automotive Test Light
Youll need a multi-meter, Repair Manual (or just ask Qs here on what you may be stuck on) & a Helper
No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM);
"...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps.
This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition.
So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working.
Ignition Coil Test -No Spark No Start Tests @
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-test-the-ignition-coil-1
Instead of buying a HEI Spark Tester, Make a Spark Tester see
http://www.mgexp.com/article/spark-tester.html
This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module.
These ignition control modules are not interchangeable.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_ign_fender/fender_mounted_module_1.php
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Ignition Control Module (ICM) Location (near driver's side hood hinge) in Engine Bay Diagram in 92-96
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at
http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/SpoutConnectLOC.JPG
Ignition Control Module (ICM) Location pics (near & below driver's side hood hinge)
by DNBELOWBRONCO (Kevin, Labor of Love)
Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "NOTE: Disconnecting the start wire at the starter relay with the key on will cause the TFI-IV ICM to revert to start mode timing after the vehicle is started. Reconnecting the start wire after the vehicle is running will not correct the timing. Use the ignition key only to start the vehicle for adjusting base timing."
Source: by Steve
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/833750_1
