**** while driving

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broncokenny

Ken Emerson
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Allright we have seemed to eliminate idle problem everyone,but what causes a **** while driving

when I back off gas pedal anyone??? :huh:

 

Bully Bob

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---"what causes a **** while driving"----

Alcohol, cell-phones, & attitudes....! ... but that's a whole diff. story.

There is a bit of play in the rear diff. that can be felt when the throttle is dumped quickly.

This is amplified with a worn suspension/U-joints. "Axle-wrap" adds to it as well.

 
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broncokenny

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---"what causes a **** while driving"----

Alcohol, cell-phones, & attitudes....! ... but that's a whole diff. story.

There is a bit of play in the rear diff. that can be felt when the throttle is dumped quickly.

This is amplified with a worn suspension/U-joints. "Axle-wrap" adds to it as well.
Thanx Im going to check that out too.I was waiting for someone to think roadjerk :))

 
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broncokenny

Ken Emerson
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No but that sounds a lot cheaper than a torque converter or new drive train Thanx

Didnt no it had one?
Now Im not sure I do have one.Ive looked all around and havent found it.Im not sure what trans

I have ? I know my book says only on c4,c5 & c6 have them.Should there be any play in my rear

drive shaft when I turn it by hand?Im getn frustrated :mad:

 

Bully Bob

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Yeah,

Looking at the yoke where it enters the seal on the pumpkin, e-brake on, & in neutral, ..... you should have 1/16 to maybe 1/8 inch movement.

Much more & there may be some issues (internal pumpkin)

Not uncommon & not a major expense.

ALSO, if you can move the dr. shaft up & down at the pumpkin, the torque nut may just be loose.

Rear wheels off ground (jack-stands) helps with inspection of rear-end & dr. shaft....but... there will be more slop due to no restrictions to movement.

Oh, ...the vac. mod. is on the tail cone of the trannie.

check the hose for cracks,etc.

 
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broncokenny

Ken Emerson
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Yeah,

Looking at the yoke where it enters the seal on the pumpkin, e-brake on, & in neutral, ..... you should have 1/16 to maybe 1/8 inch movement.

Much more & there may be some issues (internal pumpkin)

Not uncommon & not a major expense.

ALSO, if you can move the dr. shaft up & down at the pumpkin, the torque nut may just be loose.

Rear wheels off ground (jack-stands) helps with inspection of rear-end & dr. shaft....but... there will be more slop due to no restrictions to movement.
Thanx for the info.Im go n to put up on jack stands now and check it out.

 

WileE7

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Thanx for the info.Im go n to put up on jack stands now and check it out.
look on the back of your transmission pan i have a c6 transmission mine is on the right side on the rear of the pan there should be a hose connected to it

 

bidibronco

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I don't know what year your truck is but if you have a speed sensor in the rear end then that may have some shavings magnatized to it. Or, it may just be bad?

 
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broncokenny

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Now Im really bummed out.Not only do I still have ****.It has stalled out on me a couple of times,

when I stop at light etc... So after a hundreds of dollars later in parts and 2 different shops. Im

no further a long than a couple weeks ago.Ive replaced throttle cable,egr valve,u joints,had idle set,and throttle air intake valve.Anyother ideas????Checked vacum lines to trans,little play in rear end but not real bad. Yippie :( /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I don't know what year your truck is but if you have a speed sensor in the rear end then that may have some shavings magnatized to it. Or, it may just be bad?
1988 XLT with 302 ,4X4,OD Thanx

 

Bully Bob

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Hmmmm...,

Just so you'll know, "hitt'n the nail on the head" (solving problems over this electronic device) is raw science at best.

Now it sounds like a fuel press. problem, or even the ignition module.

Did you try Auto Zone...? They'll read the codes free ('96 & up)

'95 & below, one has to buy the code reader....about $30.00

 

whitey

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have you checked the coil? i had a problem where it would stall at lights rarely then start right back up. then it started doing it in the mornings everytime i slowed down but would start right back up. then one day it stalled at a busy L.A. intersection and wouldn't start. BTW- people in L.A. are a-holes noone would lend a hand while i pushed the beast out of the intersection- they just honked. anyhow- the problem was a corroded wire that leads to the coil. that fixed it then i replaced the whole coil. i hate car electrical stuff, it gives me fits.

 
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broncokenny

Ken Emerson
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I don't know what year your truck is but if you have a speed sensor in the rear end then that may have some shavings magnatized to it. Or, it may just be bad?
1988 XLT 4X4 W/OD

have you checked the coil? i had a problem where it would stall at lights rarely then start right back up. then it started doing it in the mornings everytime i slowed down but would start right back up. then one day it stalled at a busy L.A. intersection and wouldn't start. BTW- people in L.A. are a-holes noone would lend a hand while i pushed the beast out of the intersection- they just honked. anyhow- the problem was a corroded wire that leads to the coil. that fixed it then i replaced the whole coil. i hate car electrical stuff, it gives me fits.
[Thanx Ill check it out.I know what you mean.Ive lived in Detroit,Phoenix area,Boston area have

stayed in New York and LA a few times there is no worst traffic or driving conditions anywhere than L A. :excl:

 

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