Instructions for installing new rotors on a '96 Bronco with ABS and Superwinch manual hubs (I don't think it's any different for auto's as when I switched to manuals I recall it being a direct swap).
Jack up front end.
Remove wheel.
Remove brake caliper by removing 2 bolts from behind and rocking it off the brake pads (if you haven't ever changed your brake pads this job probably isn't for you). Rest the caliper in the groove on the radius arm, being careful not to stress the brake fluid lines.
Remove brakepads.
VERY IMPORTANT!!! Spin the rotor with your hand once the pads are off to get a feel for how much load should be on the bearings when reassembling.
Remove the six allen screws from the hub and pull out the manual locking mechanism.
Remove the large C clip pressed around the inside of the hub housing.
Remove the small C clip on the end of the axle shaft.
Remove the inner locking hub mechanism (it matches the piece removed in step 4).
Remove the fat heavy duty half C clip on the axle shaft.
Remove the star shaped washer that fits over the teeth on the axle shaft.
Remove fat washer spacer.
Remove thin washer spacer.
Remove final piece of locking hub assembly (it's keyed to the axle shaft).
Remove lockring that fits into keyhole and pokes into a hole in the lock nut behind it. It may be necessary to tighten the nut slightly first to remove preasure from the lock ring.
Remove the Locknut. (Ford sells a special tool for this that you may be able to get at your local parts store, but I didn't have any luck. The tool varies depending on the year and make and each store had a couple of different ones but not the one for a '96 Bronco. If it doesn't say "96 Bronco" don't buy it, it won't help.) I used the advice of someone else on the list stuck (wedged) a big screwdriver between one of the six flat spots on the nut and the hub housing and then turned the whole assembly with a lug wrench stuck between two of the lugs. This was a 4 ******** but the nut moved very easily without damaging anything (my '96 has 95,000 miles on it which probably isn't too much in Bronco years).
The hub and rotor can now be removed.
Separate the hub and rotor by pounding out the lugs. I set the rotor on a block of wood, screwed a lug nut on flush with the surface of the lug and pounded on that with a small single single-hand sledge. They came out pretty easily.
What the **** is this stupid ring on the back of the rotor!!!! Thats the speed sensor for the ABS.... If you have a press or a gear puller try it, but don't press on the bearing in the center of the rotor. What worked for me was you'll notice the lugs are now resting against the ring, I pounded on each lug a couple of times in a star pattern until the ring came off. For reassembly I tapped the ring back on in a star pattern with a rubber mallat and finished it off with a solid tap in the star pattern from the small sledge to be sure it was all the way on. If the sledge has a nice bouce, it's tight.
The rotor can now be slipped of the hub shaft. The only thing holding it still is rust. I used some WD40 and rocked/tapped it off.
Reassemble in the reverse order. Be sure the studs are pounded in until tight. The hub and rotor will be tight together and not shake or rock. I did final tightening of the studs by cranking a nut down hard onto the hub with a large washer under it that allowed the stud to be pulled fully through. When tightening the locknut back onto the axleshaft to hold the hub/rotor in place be sure to tighten until the hub spins with the same resistance you felt in step 3. It may be necessary to spin the hub two or three times as the first time the bearing reseats itself, then loosens up. Be sure not to over tighten as you will crush the bearing!!! Be sure the nut stops at a location where one of it's holes matches to the left edge of the key in the axle so that the lockring can be properly installed. The rest of the assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
