WHAT TO START WITH?

[silicon_bronco]

Ok, How to ask this with out sounding to stupid.

In looking at all you folks 4x4's and reading much about everybody's 4x4's. I am stuck with what to start with first when it comes to my 95. I know this is a subjective question but I would just like to know what you all would think is the most important thing to start with.

I do want to do some off roading, but as I am newbie I will not get exstream at the get go..

Ok. Other them my ball joints that I have posted about already, this is what I have to start with.

My knowledge is not the best as I am new to the Bronco world and 4x4ing.

95 XLT 302 / dana 44 front and I also believe the back as well is dana. This is a more or less stock 95 with 186k on it. So fare it runs very well. It does have a K&N air Filter, New radius arm bushings, BFG A/T 2" or 3" over stock size, The fiberglass Cab has all ready been fitted for removal, and there is some rust on hear and there. You can check out my pic's at my web site if you have not done so already.

Let's have fun , what would you do with my 95 if it was yours?

Thanks for all your input and thoughts.

 

[88pimpin]

I'd put a billet grille on. Adds some style for low cost. You can get them for under $100 shipped on eBay. You could also paint yours, like I did. Only like $6 to do. I used DupliColor wheel paint. Just sand it down, clean, and paint. No clear coat needed. Comes in charcoal, silver, black, and white. Then I'd get some wheels and tires put on. Ya, they're larger than stock, but they could be bigger. This really depends on how much money you have to spend. I'd really go with a 16" wheel, since the larger the wheel, the harder it will be for a larger tire to come off. Probably 10-12" wide, as well. Also, a suspension lift. I personally won't do a body lift from what I've heard from others on the dangers. You could put on some F-350 leaf springs (I've heard) and that'll raise you a few inches in back. Then you can buy the shocks and some springs for the front. I think you've got the dual front shocks, so you'll need 6. The shocks are all different from eachother. If you wanna go big, you might as well do a 4+ inch lift. Don't get one because it's cheaper, then want to put a larger one on later and end up spending more. You won't get as much off of your first one. I'm not sure how far you can go without serious modifications. Probably ought to do an allignment next.

I'd add some foglights. Help your ability to see and good for offroading. I bought some $20 ones at Wal-Mart, used some diodes from Radio Shack ($1.50), and a relay ($3-5), and some wire and connectors ($3-5). I wired them up to my headlights so they come on with my dims or brights. The diodes prevent the power from coming back so you'd have your highs, dims, and foglights all on at the same time (which is bad for the bulb and you can't switch them anymore). I also have Sylvania SilverStars. Bought them online. I blew a bulb and replaced it with a Cool Blue one from Wal-Mart and haven't changed it because I don't notice a difference. A friend had SilverStars in his Intrepid and one blew, he replaced it with a standard halogen and it's as dim as a daytime running light.

I'd also want to replace the battery. You could go all the way and get an Optima Red Top, or just get an Everstart Maxx from Wal-Mart.

Interior:

I don't really care for the flamed steeringwheel cover, I think it belongs in a Civic. To me, it looks cheap and doesn't flow with the rest of the truck. I bought a plain black vinyl one from Wal-Mart for a few bucks. It looks just fine and it feels great. Most of the other ones you pay too much for, and they still don't match the look.

Get some all-weather floormats. You can get some that catch the mud, so you don't get it all over the truck. I personally like the Ford mats.

Did you just buy the truck, or what? I saw the sign that says "...Sale...1995..."

 

[silicon_bronco]

Ya, I just got it about a month or two ago and have not done anything to it.

I know I can do a 4" lift with out any mods, it only has single shocks on the front so that would save me some funds with the lift.

I know what you mean about the cheese flame steering wheel cover , just have not gotten around to doing anything about yet.. I was thing about ripping out all the carpet and doing a paint on bed cover, like Hercules or Grizzle grit, Rhino - I know it is a spray on. I do have some all wether matts in it as of now. I got them after I put the pic's on the web.

I was looking at the Optima yellow Top.

I don't really have the fund to put new wheels and tires as of yet, but I was thinking about painting my wheels flat black. I was also thinking that a flat panel dash would be cool as well. I would also like to put some sound in 10" 12" would be nice, we will see about that..

billet grille, what is it?

Thanks for the input..

 

[bluesman17]

Red top would suit you fine if you arent running an electric winch or anything else with an extreme load. The fog lights you need to be cafeful about because there are laws about them (we cant run them in the city limits or its a ticket). Personally i would get a 15" rim because tires are cheaper then and it really doesnt change anything performance wise.

Billet grills are the metal slats running horizontally, im not a big fan of them but to each his own.

The first thing to do to actually help it offroad would be to swap out the automatic hubs for some locking ones...

 

[silicon_bronco]

Well looking at my wheels I have 15" x 10", and 31" tiers on it now.

It has Warner Manual locking hubs..

Red top over Yellow top. I will at some time put a winch on so I fig go with the yellow, but if I was not going to put the winch on let's say for another year give or take would the yellow last this long? Optima gives a 2 year limited warranty, so I say yes it would last this lone or longer?

Why spend a hundred give or take now and have to do it again in a year or two. Or I guess I could just go to a duel battery set up at that time as well..

 

[cowboydan]

going wheeling is fine, even for a stocker. but if you're not packing a few necesary items, your day will come to a grinding halt real fast, quick, and in a hurry. some are expensive.... but it will only take one time not having these in the truck to figure out you cant go without them.

tow straps (you will need them)

clevises

tow points on the truck f/r

tools (util knife, basic hand tools and a strong secure box for them)

spill containment kit (mother nature might like you for it)

some of all fluids (I include a 5gal container of water)

wd40 (any silicone spray is better than none)

spill containers (incace you spring a leak

papertowels/ a few rags

jack all

change of clothes/ blanket (when things go bad... they usually get worse in a hurry)

cell, cb, 2w radio ( better have 1 of them)

first aid kit. and an epi pen ( you might need it or some one you need to help might)

off road use promotes premature wear on almost everything. an oil change every once in a while... enjoy those tow straps you figured you could go without...lol

NEVER GO WHEELING BY YOURSELF!!! if you don't have these items you'll need a ride home.... and you will need the other truck.

there are some other things that make your life easier but you don't need alot of them if you only plan on going out once in a while. but we all know it will be more than that.... tell me i'm wrong

 

[silicon_bronco]

Thanks for the input on necessary items.

This is a list of suggested things I got off the 2 Big Bronco's web page that I will start to collect as well.

1.CB Radio - [ Looking at some ]

2.Spare Tire - [ have full size one ]

3.Jack Appropriate For Your Vehical - [ have ]

4.Lug Wrench Of The Correct Size To Remove a Wheel - [ have ]

5.Drinking Water - [ have ]

6.Snacks/Food - [ have ]

7.Extra Clothes - [ have ]

8.Basic First-Aid Kit - [ have, but need to up date ]

9.Other Items As Appropriate For The Situation/Climate/Region - [ have and need to get more ]

10.Full-Sized "Usable" Spare Tire - [ have ]

11.Recovery Points Front & Rear - [ need to get and install. Any thoughts on this? ]

12.Recovery Strap - [ need to get ]

13.Blanket -and/or- Survival Gear - [ have and need to get more of it ]

14.Fire Extinguisher - [ have_ Class ABC ]

15.Some Spare Parts - [ What would be good to have ? ]

16.Basic Tools - [ have ]

17.Shovel - [ have ]

18.A Winch -and/or - Locker In At Least One Axle - [ would like both. Any thoughts? ]

20.Tire Size At Least 1" Larger Then Stock For Your Vehicle - [do have but maybe I should go larger?]

21.Extra Fuel - [need a way to hold it ]

22.GPS - [ would like ]

I rely like the idea of spill containment kit's, very PC and kind to Mother Nature.

jack all ? Need more info please...

epi pen ? Need more info please...

I'll be out as much as time will allow me to be out...

once again thanks for all the help everybody.

What els is there?

 

[cowboydan]

a jack all is a heavy duty old school jack.... but they are very usefull if you don't have a winch.

an epi pen is an injection for severe allergic reactions, most common for wasps yellowjackets. if someone has an reaction that is the only thing between life and death. i like to carry benadril, also good for alergic reactions.... you just never know what's out in the bush.

the spill kit i am going to get is from a canadian organization calles AURS that volunteers out in the bush to conserve our water sheds. we build bridges over fresh water crossings and generally try to preserve, and respect all land use issues we also work with the province to ensure future use of the trails. it's a really good group to get involved in. by using the spill kit that they sell is good cause most all the money that the aurs group gets through sales goes back into the group for awareness tools like tv, radio. but the bottom line is. the the places that most of us in ab use for wheeling belons to either the gov, or privat owners. too many jerks think that these parks are the land fill, and generally like to destroy the land. now we are on the verge of loosing 95% of all our trails.... so this is a good, respectable group that might make the difference atleast up here... if none of you on this board have heard... they do want to shut down all of our trails stretching from yellowstone to yukon. i think all who use out back for wheeling, you might want to look into a group and do something to preserve our hobby/ passion. look at it this way, if we don't fight for the land use who will.

 

[Justshootme84]

SiliconBronco, you've had some great replies to your question, very informative!!

My advice on adding any mods to your Bronco (or any vehicle) is to have a vision of what you want it to do. THat might be the "Ultimate Bronco", with straight axles front & rear, lockers, winch, 36" tires, etc. that can be unstoppable in almost any offroad area. That is fine, but it takes alot of time, and money. Take it slow, do plenty of research, and be safe above all else.

My personal preference when modifying any truck has always been to start with the engine and drivetrain. That's just due to my racing background, but looks/appearance come in second to a good-running engine. Just begin with regular maintenance, change fluids, check hoses and belts, etc. If you get a HAynes or Chilton repair manual, it will help you learn about the Bronco.

IF some part needs replacing, consider an aftermarket or performance part instead of stock or OEM. IF your motor is the original, with 186K miles, it may be due for an overhaul. If it smokes, burns alot of oil or knocks, take care of that before throwing a ton of money at a bad motor.

Second to the motor and rest of the drivetrain would be a good set of offroad tires, and maybe wheels if you want. Depending on the type of driving you do, you might want a mud tire or all-terrain tire. Tread pattern and grip make quite a bit of difference in sand, mud or rocks.

Once you got a handle on those items, you can then work on the interior and body. It is fun to look good while driving around in a nice Bronco. There are tons of dress-up items made for the 80-96 Ford F-150 that also fit the Bronco.

I feel like I'm about halfway done with my ultimate dream Bronco. It's taken over four years to get to this point. But, Rome wasn't built in a day as the ole saying goes!

/

 

[cowboydan]

SiliconBronco, you've had some great replies to your question, very informative!!
My advice on adding any mods to your Bronco (or any vehicle) is to have a vision of what you want it to do. THat might be the "Ultimate Bronco", with straight axles front & rear, lockers, winch, 36" tires, etc. that can be unstoppable in almost any offroad area. That is fine, but it takes alot of time, and money. Take it slow, do plenty of research, and be safe above all else.

so you mean like this???now.... you know i'm gonna post a pic eh??

/

24424[/snapback]

​

 

[79bigbronco]

no! like this!

 

[silicon_bronco]

Justshootme84, I feel that you are most right about my 95.. Performance over appearance is a must.

I am lucky as of now that the Eng. has been cared for by the previous owner and is not smoken or knock-en. But with 186k I feel this will not last long. The drive train will need some work and I have been thinking about how to go about this.

Looking at the owners manual This is what I have.

Front Axle - Dana 44 - confirmed by getting under and looking.

Rear Axle - Ford conventional, 8.8" Ring Gear, Ratio 3.55

Now my manual shows E40D or 4R70W, I can not see when I get under the 95 to tell what one I have?

Warner 1356 Transfer Case.

My Sticker on the door shows [ Trans = E ]

I do have a Chilton and have been reading it.. I would most like to do all or most of the work on my 95 by my self and or with the help of others so I can learn and have the knowledge to work on my 95 if need be. But I do know that there are things you should leave to the one's that know. But I would also like to be one of the one's that know as well. So I ask anybody in the Asheville, NC. area that has a shop and or more tools then I that would be willing to help me out on this endeavor please PM me.. I'll pay for beer and food and do all the sweeting, would just like someone to stand over me and say no not that way, do it this way...

Let's talk Lockers and Gear Ratio. If I am going to rebuild my Trans this would be the time to do this kind of stuff..

I have been looking a Detroit Lockers web page and have had mixed reaction from different people about Detroit Lockers, mostly saying that they are to loud.. I don't rely care about this, just looking for performance.

Help anybody and thanks again for all the help that had been given.

 

[Justshootme84]

SB, I'll use the two examples of the cool, lifted Broncos for reference. If that is what you are working towards in your mods, it will help to narrow down the choices of options you have for your stock Bronco.

Your 95 Bronco, 302 V8, Dana44 TTB front (3.54:1, open), Ford 8.8" rear (3.55:1, open), B-W 13-56 transfer case and E4OD transmission will be O.K. for light offroading with up to a 31x10.50 tire. Add a lift kit and 33"-36" tires, and that changes the 'power' enough to feel sluggish. The engine and drivetrain have to work harder to turn the larger tires. Most folks correct this by changing the gears in both axles to a proper ratio for the size of tire, like a 4.56:1 gear for 35" tires.

Well, when you put bigger, heavier tires and wheels on the stock, 1/2-ton rated axles you create alot more stress than they were designed for. The wheel bearings, brakes, front balljoints, and u-joints will tend to wear out or break more often. A swap to 3/4-ton or 1-ton rated axles will be able to handle those larger wheels and tires with less chance of breakage. Since your 95 has a computer that controls both the engine and transmission shifts, that limits what you can do.

IF you remain at stock height and just want more offroad ability, a limited slip or locking differential is a big help. The stock axles like in your 95 have an "open" type, meaning no traction aide installed. Some are factory-equipped with a Ford Traction-Lock, which is a limited slip unit (L/S) in the rear axle. When one wheel loses traction and starts to spin, the open type of axle gives that wheel all of the power, robbing it from the other side. So, you have one wheel spinning in place and the other not moving. The L/S reduces that effect, and lets the other wheel have some power to help move you out of the obstacle. A locker splits the power to both sides or both wheels 50/50, so you have even less chance of getting stuck.

Tire tread pattern is still important, of course, but a locker or L/S will help you get thru a mud hole or when one tire leaves the ground. The lockers are better for offroad, but not as street-friendly. IF you do more than 50% driving on the street or highway, a L/S may be a better choice for you. Your tires will last a little longer, and you won't have any of the noise or sudden "pops" when cornering that you can have with a locker on the pavement.

If you do a search on the Ford 8.8" rear axle, you will find that it has a few weaknesses that can be addressed for better durability and offroad use. You may read about the axle tubes twisting loose or gear breakage. That's normally due to very hard abuse or improper maintenance. But if you are going to add a traction aide, look into those other mods that you can do for added strength, like a C-clip eliminator kit.

Finally, a gear swap or locker install is usually better left to a proffesional mechanic, especially with the Ford 8.8" axle, as the proper setup of the gears is crucial. And any gear change will affect your speedometer reading. You can reprogram the computer to correct this, check with SuperChips for info on that. The 93-96 Bronco's do not have a speedo gear, rather they rely on sensors in the rear axle or on the t-case.

 

[silicon_bronco]

I have read about lockers and L/S lockers so I get the jest of it all.. When it come to a swap to 3/4-ton or 1-ton rated axles, is there a preferred axle or will any axle with this kind of rating do?

Now with a lift kit I believe that with a 4" lift I will not need to change out my drive shaft, but if I go any higher this will have to be modified ? With a let's say 6" lift and 33"-36" tires on my 95 this will give me the best chance of clearing obstacles and lest chance of getting stuck for the most part.

On the chance one does go with a lift of 6", 3/4 - 1 ton axle, 33"- 36" tires, will a stock 302 handle this or would one need to do some ENG mod's as well?

Trans - Yes, I would most likely leave this to the one that knows, as I do not know. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

As I am looking to the future, I will want to build up my 95 to be Mother F**ker of a ride. So it would make senses to build up for the future.

Thanks for the info..

anymore..

 

[bluesman17]

superlifts truspeed also fixes speedometer issues with gears AND tires and has can have two settings if you change tire size for highway driving etc....

 

[silicon_bronco]

I found this artical @ Four Wheeler.. Any thoughts about it ?

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/53998/

I'll have to look at the [ superlifts truspeed ] thanks..

 

[silicon_bronco]

Just checked out the superlifts truspeed, Very cool !

 

[silicon_bronco]

Ok I see that you can weld the tubes to the housing with low-hydrogen rod for added strength.

I have looked for C-Clip Eliminator kits but could only find this as of now.

Moser Engineering

7.5" & 8.8" Ford C-Clip Eliminator, but it is for All 7.5" and 8.8" Ford Mustangs, Capri, &

Fox Body Fords (For stock axles with 1.400" bearing seat)

Any hints as where I can find this for my 95 or will this work for the 95.

off to bed..

thanks all..

 

[rubberdust]

check out the suspension system from autofab. lots of travel & decent articulation big $$$ but you'll have a great start to serious off road ride. don't skimp on the axles & the gears you'll be happy paying just once. look at getting the rear axle housing trussed before hammering some negative camber into it. getting some heavier springs off a truck will get you some lift but also make it very stiff I'm not a fan of lift blocks at all you are further a head getting new leaves & coils made for you weight. with that many miles on the tranny you may as well think about getting it rebuilt it's not nearly as expensive to go through it before it goes belly up, there are a number of upgrades that have been made for your tranny since it was new & as a general rule don't ever do just the tranny without a converter.

Lockers in both ends are nice for crawling you can get away with a basic detroit in the rear but up front an ARB is sweet

Sounds like you really need to sit down & decide how REALLY serious you want the rig to be, then you can at least begin to cluster the things that can be changed in groups & $$$ so you don't end up making a change than later on find out you should have done more.

Things like ultimately how tall a rig are you willing to live with? how much lift

How big a tire do you want to run. wheels & tires

Are you going to creep along on the trails or play HEY WATCH THIS! although in NC that would be HEY Y"LL WATCH THIS! suspension, gears, axles

It wont be long & your credit card bill will be bigger than mine rebuilding my 92