yo,
yw
I hear ya.
Try a Self Test for Codes by my buddy here, BroncoJoe19
@
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
Read it when you have time and try to have a helper write the codes down; I use long jumper wires and snake them through hood/cab opening near windshield and then thru side vent window into cab and tape wires to hood hinge so it doesn't fall off.
heat the engine up; idle until temp gauge is in normal range you usually see
and when it warms up; shift thru all gears incl Reverse anyway
Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic)
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function in case you do it when no one is here at the Zone to reply
And Post em here according to
KOEO
& KOER
Have you done the basic checks, such as tranny & coolant fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse;
and tranny fluid condition; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick., etc?
BTW, have you or any shop done any mods or work with a connection to the brake circuit, or that electrically interfaces with the brake lamps in any manner?
GUESSING; It could be the Hall Effect inside distributor also called the Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) Signal, or Stator, or RPM ;
Verify charging system operation; specifically, charging voltage. 2. Verify ignition system operation; specifically, there are no open or disconnected plug wires. 3. Remove distributor cap and inspect connections where TFI module hooks to the Hall Effect Switch connector. If there is any sign of deterioration at the connector, the Hall Effect pickup must be replaced. Crankcase vapors are forced into the distributor due to excessive crankcase pressure due to a worn engine or an improperly maintained PCV system. The crankcase vapors cause deterioration of the insulation around the connectors causing the module to short out..."
and Wal Mart etc. can do some free testing on charging sys' I believe Auto Zone and Advance Etc will do it free too.
===============
Spongy Brake Pedal;
Leaky dump valve (soft).
Leaky isolation valve during RABS stop (soft).
Stoplamps always on while driving.
Hydraulic leak in rear brake tube or rear brake hose, fitting, brake master cylinder, rear wheel cylinder, or front disc brake caliper.
Air in brake system. (bleed brakes)
Little or no vacuum boost. Stuck or inoperative rear wheel cylinder or front disc brake caliper. Pinched or crimped rear brake tube or rear brake hose.
Vacuum Leak Test; On an idling engine check for vacuum leaks using a mechanic's stethoscope with the probe removed, or a ~3' garden hose section. On COLD ENGINE only, use propane torch w/rubber hose attached, UNLIT or spray carb cleaner, when it gets to the the leak the RPMs will rise. Also check: vacuum hoses; intake manifold gasket & throttle body; PCV line; vacuum reservoirs: EGR Sys Vacuum Tank & 2ndry air (coffee can); AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (plastic ball type), under dash & lines to heat/blend/etc. doors; power brake booster; cruise control ckt, etc. Where applicable;
BEWARE OF BELTS/PULLEYS, FAN AND HOT ENGINE
A vacuum gauge is a very valuable tool and is relatively inexpensive.
Vacuum Gauge Diagnosis - BEST!; Normal engine; Steady gauge 18"-20" at all speeds..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Craig U at
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm
RABS Overview; "...The Rear ABS is what is called an "open" hydraulic system. When an ABS stop is initiated and wheel lock is detected, the isolation or inlet valve closes, preventing any more fluid from going to the rear wheels. Then, if necessary to prevent lockup, an outlet or dump valve opens to bleed fluid out of the rear brake lines. That fluid goes to an accumulator and is held there for the remainder of the stop.In RABS "open" system, if there is a low fluid condition and the red warning light comes on, the ABS electronic control unit will detect this condition, turn the amber ABS warning light on and disable the system. The vehicle operator will still have basic brake system performance, but the benefit of RABS is lost.The reason for disabling the RABS is that the low fluid condition could be caused by a leak in the brake system, decreasing its performance..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83
RABS Self Test & Diagnosis Codes; "...The possible flashout codes are listed and explained in the Flash Codes Chart. Note that Codes 1 and 16 are not used. Flashout Codes Whenever the yellow REAR ABS light comes on during normal operation, a flashout code may be obtained to aid in problem diagnosis. If the vehicle is shut off before the code is read from a RABS-I module, the code will be lost. In some cases, the code may reappear when the vehicle is restarted. In other cases, the vehicle may have to be driven to reproduce the problem and, if the problem was associated with an intermittent condition, it may be difficult to reproduce. Therefore, whenever possible, it is recommended that the code be read before the vehicle is shut off. RABS II modules have been designed with Keep Alive Memory to preserve stored codes during key-off, and are to be used to service all prior year RABS I systems, except for 1987 and 1988 Bronco II vehicles. WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE FLASHOUT CODE IS BEING TAKEN. NOTE: If the red BRAKE light is also on, due to a grounding of the fluid level circuit (perhaps low brake fluid), no flashout code will be flashed and the REAR ABS light will remain on steadily. NOTE: If there is more than one system fault only the first recognized flashout code may be obtained. Obtaining the Flashout Code A flashout code may be obtained only when the yellow REAR ABS light is on. No code will be flashed if the system is OK. There are certain faults (those associated with the fluid level switch or loss of power to the module) that will cause the system to be deactivated and the REAR ABS light to be illuminated, but will not provide a diagnostic flashout code. Before obtaining the flashout code, drive the vehicle to a level area, and place the shift lever in PARK for automatic transmissions and NEUTRAL for manual transmissions. Notice whether the red BRAKE light is on or not (for future reference) and then apply the parking brake. If a RABS(-1) module is installed, keep the ignition key in the ON position so that the code will not be lost. RABS II modules have been designed with Keep Alive Memory to preserve stored codes during key-off, and are to be used to service all prior year RABS I systems, except for 1987 and 1988 Bronco II vehicles. WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE FLASHOUT CODE IS BEING TAKEN. To obtain the flashout code, locate the RABS diagnostic connector (with the Bk/Or wire), and attach a jumper wire to it. Momentarily ground it to the chassis. When the ground is made and then broken, the REAR ABS light should begin to flash. NOTE: If the red BRAKE light was on (as noticed before the parking brake was applied), the problem may be with the low fluid level circuit and, in this case, no flashout code will be flashed and the light will remain on steadily. The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates Flashout Code Four. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. It is recommended that the code be verified by reading it several times. In addition, the first code flashed may be too short because it may have been started in the middle. It should be ignored..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/280857
