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mamazog

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I am so freaking glad I found this site: I had a fullsize 87 Bronco for quite a few years, labored lovingly over its straight six and swapped out the stock trany for a granny geared transmission... So, recently I was reminicing about that loveable old beast and decided to buy another one, this time an 88, automatic, with a 302 and C6 tranny... and I'm completely lost, LOL.

The former owner decided he was going to change out the gears in the diffs, and successfully, albeit expensively, changed out the rear to 4:88. When I bought this little beauty, I thought, no problem, I can do this. Except I don't know anything about swapping out gears. Some friends tell me it will be easier to just convert the front to a solid axle... others are teling me that I need to just swap the gears and stop being such a girl about this... I'm running 36's, and will need to be able to drive this at least at 65 mph in the summer... any ideas?

Also, the former owner lifted it, with a 3 inch body lift and 2.5 suspension lift, so between that and the tires, I'd expect the steering to be a little loose, but driving her home, I was pretty shaken by just how loose the steering actually is when going straight (turning, she's okay, not great but manageable).

Oh, yeah, hi! I'm Heather, from WA. ;) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

Bully Bob

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Hi Heather., welcome...!!

488's should be comfortable with those big skins..!!

I'm assuming the front gears were never changed..?? Swapping the axle isn't easy or advisable.

Putting 488's in the front is no biggie...aligning the mesh on the ring & pinion is the only tricky part.

Handling/steering is another issue. That IFS may need a pro alignment shop to get it happy.

Hopefully he re-set the steering shaft.. i.e. no mickey-mice.. [-o<

This intro/thread got a bit lengthy so I'll move ya to 80-96 Tech. support.

More help there/here... >:D< <'> (you can do another brief intro if you like.)

 
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Krafty

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welcome heather, like bob said 4.88 is a good ratio for those 36's right in the middle of mileage and power so there should be no need to change the rear gears. Front has to match as I'm sure you know and if it doesn't already then its gonna have to get swapped to a 4.88 reverse rotation gear set in the front.

the steering can be straightened out by having someone look at the common wear points in your steering system like column slip shaft, worm gear and your tire rod ends. When it comes to steering and alignment, I always try to do my best to do it right when I do it myself but I always get it checked out by a licensed mechanic before I trust my family's safety to it.

Good luck.

 

miesk5

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yo,

WELCOME!

I have some Dana 44 re-gear artivle LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=517

Including, for example;

Ford built our Broncos & other 4x4 trucks & vans with a numerically lower front gear ratio in the front Dana 44 than the rear so that off-road steering is enhanced.

A Bronco built with 3.55 rear ratio would have a 3.54 ration in the front Dana 44; or; 3.08 in the 8.8 & 3.07 in the Dana 44; or 4.11 in the 8.8 & 4.10 in the Dana 44, etc...";

Following was in my MS WORD Notes and the source, Randy's Ring & Pinion has removed it from their current web site; The gear ratio in the front of a four wheel drive has to be different from the front so the front wheels will pull more. There have been many different ratio combinations used in four-wheel drive vehicles, but not so that the front will pull more. Gear manufactures use different ratios for many different reasons. Some of those reasons are: strength, gear life, noise (or lack of it), geometric constraints, or simply because of the tooling they have available. I have seen Ford use a 3.50 ratio in the rear with a 3.54 in the front, or a 4.11 in the rear with a 4.09 in the front. As long as the front and rear ratios are within 1%, the vehicle works just fine on the road, and can even be as different as 2% for off-road use with no side effects. point difference in ratio is equal to 1%. To find the percentage difference in ratios it is necessary to divide, not subtract. In order to find the difference, divide one ratio by the other and look at the numbers to the right of the decimal point to see how far they vary from 1.00. For example: 3.54 ÷ 3.50 = 1.01, or 1%, not 4% different. And likewise 4.11 ÷ 4.09 = 1.005, or only a 1/2% difference. These differences are about the same as a 1/3" variation in front to rear tire height, which probably happens more often than we realize. A difference in the ratio will damage the transfer case. Any extreme difference in front and rear ratios or front and rear tire height will put undue force on the drive train. However, any difference will put strain on all parts of the drivetrain. The forces generated from the difference have to travel through the axle assemblies and the driveshafts to get to the transfer case. These excessive forces can just as easily break a front u-joint or rear spider gear as well as parts in the transfer case.

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

altho not 4:88, process is same;

4.09 Installation & Rebuild in an 85 Dana 44 w/Auburn LSD & (all pics are gone)

Source: by Eric T (Eric 6equals8) at http://web.archive.org/web/20010417015742/www.users.qwest.net/~ejtachell/Bronco/Front/Front.htm

click, Impatient?

to speed opening up

Steering;

see my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=45

for such as;

Symptoms of Wear; "...Scrubbed tires indicate the wheels have incorrect toe. Parts to check are the idler arm, strut rod bushings, tie-rod ends, pitman arm and center link. Cupped tires are symptoms of incorrect camber. Parts that could be worn and ready to replace are the ball joint, coil springs and control-arm bushings. Cupped tires may also be a symptom of frame fatigue. Uneven tire wear suggests that the alignment is loose or parts are worn. Check for loose wheel bearings, loose ball joints and worn bushings. Make sure the wheels are balanced, and inspect the shock absorbers. Variable tire wear indicates the tires are improperly inflated. Overinflated tires have excessive wear in the center; underinflated tires have excessive outer wear. Make sure tires are inflated to the proper pressure. Regularly inspecting the three interrelated systems — braking, steering and suspension — and replacing worn parts help assure safe, trouble-free driving. MOOG chassis parts play a vital role in safety by helping maintain optimum steering control and providing superior handling and stability..."

Source: by MOOG®

Troubleshooting;

STEERING GEAR CONDITIONS:

- Feedback (rattle, chuckle, knocking noise in steering gear) Feedback is a condition that is noticed when a truck is driven over rough pavement and this roughness is felt in the steering wheel by the driver. In addition, if the gear is not adjusting properly, excessive rattle, knocking and/or chuckle noises can be heard inside the truck.

Possible Source(s):

* Gear box loose on frame.

Action(s) to Take:

* Check bolts for damage and replace as required. If bolts are not damaged, tighten mounting bolts (3) to 68-84 N-m (50-62 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):

* Insufficient meshload.

Action(s) to Take:

* Set meshload to specification.

Possible Source(s):

* Loose worm race nut.

Action(s) to Take:

* Check nut for damage and replace as required. If nut is not damaged, tighten nut to 75-122 N-m (50-62 ft-lb)

Possible Source(s):

* Insufficient worm ****** bearing preload.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):

* Damaged/omitted sector shaft bearing (gear might also exhibit external leakage from sector seals).

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace gear housing.

- Hissing Sound There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound most evident at standstill parking. There is no relationship between this noise and the performance of the steering gear.

Possible Source(s):

* "Hiss" may be expected when the steering wheel is at the end of travel or when turning it at standstill.

Action(s) to Take:

* Hiss is a normal characteristic of rotary valve steering. Do not replace the input shaft and valve assembly unless the hiss is extremely objectionable. A replacement valve will also exhibit a slight noise and is not usually a cure for the condition. Investigate for a grounded column or a loose boot at the dash panel. Any metal to metal contacts will transmit valve hiss into the passenger compartment through the steering column. Verify clearance between flexible coupling components. Be sure steering column shaft and gear are aligned so flexible coupling rotates in a flat plane and is not distorted as shaft rotates.

- Front End Wander Front end wander is a condition that is noticed when the vehicle is driven in a straight ahead position with the wheel held in a firm position, but the vehicle wanders to either the right or left side. Front end alignment should be checked before any gear service is made.

NOTE: Front end alignment and tire pressures should be checked before any gear service is performed.

Possible Source(s):

* Gear box loose on frame.

Action(s) to Take:

* Check mounting bolts for damage and replace if required. If no damage is found, tighten bolts to 73-90 N-m (54-66 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):

* Incorrect meshload.

Action(s) to Take:

Set meshload to specification.

Possible Source(s):

* Loose race locknut.

Action(s) to Take:

* Check race locknut for damage and replace as required. If no damage is found, tighten nut to 75-122 N-m (55-90 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):

* Insufficient worm ****** bearing preload.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):

* Damaged sector shaft bearing (gear might also exhibit external leakage from sector seals).

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace gear housing assembly.

Possible Source(s):

* Center lash.

Action(s) to Take:

* Improper fit of worm to piston. Replace valve assembly (be certain to check meshload prior to replacing valve for center lash).

- Heavy Steering Efforts, Poor assist (both directions)

Possible Source(s):

* Low steering system fluid fill.

Action(s) to Take:

* Add steering fluid to proper level.

Possible Source(s):

* Engine idle too low.

Action(s) to Take:

* Set engine idle to specification.

Possible Source(s):

* Low power steering pump belt tension.

Action(s) to Take:

* Check belt tension and set to specification.

Possible Source(s):

* Pump flow/relief pressure not to specification.

Action(s) to Take:

* Test pump and service as necessary.

Possible Source(s):

* External leakage resulting in low fluid level.

Action(s) to Take:

* Refer to Ford Power Steering Gear Leak Inspection for external leak diagnosis.

Possible Source(s):

* Piston Teflon� seal cut or twisted.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace piston Teflon� seal.

Possible Source(s):

* Loose/missing rubber backup piston O-ring.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace/install rubber backup piston O-ring.

Possible Source(s):

* Valve/gear housing oil passages blocked.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace gear housing or valve housing as required.

Possible Source(s):

* Leakage past piston end cap.

Action(s) to Take:

* Check piston end cap for damage. If no damage is found, tighten piston end cap to 95-149 N-m (70-110 ft-lb). If damage is found, replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):

* Porosity in the piston bore (housing casting).

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace gear housing.

Possible Source(s):

* Porosity in piston.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):

* Valve sleeve Teflon� seal(s) damaged.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace valve sleeve Teflon� seal(s).

- External Leakage: One of the most common conditions causing repeat repairs is fluid leaks. Make sure you clean the steering gear first before any steering gear external leakage checks are performed.

Possible Source(s):

* Loose hose fittings.

Action(s) to Take:

* Check hose fittings for damage and replace as required. If no damage is found, tighten fittings to specification.

Possible Source(s):

* Missing/damaged hose fitting tube seats.

Action(s) to Take:

* Install/replace tube seats.

Possible Source(s):

* Leak from input shaft seal.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace input shaft seal. Check shaft for damage. Check housing bore for porosity or damage.

Possible Source(s):

* Leak at valve mounting face.

Action(s) to Take:

* Check bolts for proper torque. Replace valve housing O-ring(s).

Possible Source(s):

* Leak at sector adjuster ***** locknut.

Action(s) to Take:

* Check locknut for damage and replace as required. If no damage is found, tighten locknut to 48-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):

* Leak at sector shaft seal.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace sector seals and examine sector shaft for pitting or corrosion. Replace sector shaft if necessary. Check housing seal bore for porosity or damage. Replace housing if necessary.

Possible Source(s):

* Leak from gear housing.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace gear housing.

Possible Source(s):

* Leak at sector cover face, or cracked sector cover.

Action(s) to Take:

* Check bolt torques. Check O-ring seal and system relief pressure.

- Poor Returnability -- Sticky Feeling Poor returnability is a condition that is noticed when the vehicle is in a turn and returns to center with effort from the driver. In addition, when the driver returns the steering wheel to center, it may have a sticky or catchy feel.

Possible Source(s):

* Meshload set too tight.

Action(s) to Take:

* Reset meshload to specification.

Possible Source(s):

* Sector adjuster not properly staked to sector.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace sector assembly.

Possible Source(s):

* Damaged input shaft bearing.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):

* Binding in valve assembly.

Action(s) to Take:

* Replace valve assembly.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Steering Box Preload Adjustment

1. Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft using a Pitman Arm Puller (Tool T64P-3590-F).

2. Disconnect the fluid return line at the reservoir and cap the reservoir return line ****** to retain the fluid in the reservoir.

3. Place the end of the return line in a suitable container and turn the steering wheel from stop-to-stop several times to discharge the fluid from the gear. Discard the fluid.

4. Turn the steering wheel to the right stop, then back left 45 degrees.

5. Attach an inch-pound torque wrench to the steering wheel nut and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft slowly approximately one-eighth turn (45�) toward center from the initial 45 degree position. Note this first value.

6. Turn the steering gear back to center and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft back and forth across the center position (� 90�). Compare the center value to the first value, using the following criteria:

* Vehicles with less than 5,000 miles (8046 Km):

If total meshload over mechanical center is less than 15 in-lb (1.7 Nm) or greater than 24 in-lb (2.7 Nm), RESET to first value PLUS 11-15 in-lb (1.2-1.7 Nm).

* Vehicles with more than 5,000 miles (8046 Km), or with new sector shaft:

If meshload over mechanical center is NOT 7 in-lb (0.8 Nm) GREATER than the first value, RESET to 10-14 in-lb (1.13-1.6 Nm) GREATER than first value.

7. If reset is required, loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the sector shaft adjuster ***** until the reading is the specified value greater than the torque at 45 degrees from the stop. Hold the sector shaft ***** in place, and tighten the locknut.

8. Re-check torque readings and replace the pitman arm and steering wheel hub cover.

9. Connect the fluid return line to the reservoir and fill the reservoir to specification with the specified fluid. Check belt tension & adjust if necessary.

Do not pry against the reservoir to obtain proper belt load. Pressure will deform the reservoir and cause it to leak.

.......

Wanders Side to Side � Loose Steering

Vehicle overloaded or unevenly loaded.

CORRECT as required.

Improper (mismatched) tires and wheels.

INSTALL correct tire and wheel combination. REFER to Section 04-04.

Improper tire pressure.

ADJUST air pressure in tires.

Loose steering gear mounting.

ADJUST to 73-89 Nm (54-66 lb-ft).

Front and rear suspension components loose, worn or exhibit damaged condition.

TIGHTEN or REPLACE as necessary. REFER to Group 04.

Loose, worn or damaged steering sector shaft arm drag link.

TIGHTEN or REPLACE as necessary. REFER to Section 11-03.

Loose wheel lug nuts.

TIGHTEN to specifications.

Spindle pin (king pin) binding.

LUBRICATE suspension. REFER to Group 04.

Improperly adjusted front wheel bearing.

ADJUST to specification.

Steering column intermediate shaft coupling fractured.

REPLACE as required.

Incorrect toe setting.

SET to specifications. REFER to Section 00-04.

Improperly adjusted steering gear.

ADJUST to specification (meshload only). REFER to Section 11-02B or Section 11-02D.

Steering column misaligned.

REFER to Section 11-04.

Steering column components loose or exhibit excessive play.

REPAIR as required.

Pulls to One Side

Improperly sized tires.

INSTALL correct tire and wheel combination.

Improper tire pressure.

ADJUST air pressure in tire. REFER to Section 04-04.

Unevenly loaded vehicle.

CORRECT as required.

Improper brake operation or adjustment.

INSPECT, ADJUST and CORRECT as required. REFER to Group 06.

Improperly adjusted front wheel bearing, or worn or damaged rear wheel bearing.

ADJUST or REPLACE as required. REFER to Group 05.

Broken or sagging front spring and/or rear spring.

INSPECT and REPLACE as required. REFER to Group 04 and Group 05.

Loose steering gear mountings.

TIGHTEN to specification.REFER to Section 11-02B or Section 11-02D.

Loose, worn or damaged steering sector shaft arm drag link.

TIGHTEN and REPLACE as required. REFER to Section 11-03.

Bent front wheel spindle.

INSPECT and REPLACE as required.

Bent rear axle housing and/or loose rear spring, shock absorber and suspension arm attaching points.

INSPECT, TIGHTEN and REPLACE as required. REFER to Group 04.

Frame or underbody out of alignment.

CORRECT as required. REFER to Section 02-01.

Misaligned front wheel.

SET to specification. REFER to Section 04-00.

Belts on tires misaligned.

REPLACE as required. REFER to Section 04-04.

Steering gear valve binding or out of balance.

CLEAN and REPLACE as necessary. REFER to Section 11-02B or Section 11-02D.

GO to Pinpoint Test C.

 
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mamazog

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You guys are the best! Thanks for the detailed lists of things to check for with the steering, not to mention re-gearing the front. I am again looking forward to getting this done, and now know where to go if I get stuck again... Just one more question... Are these gears available in a kit, or what should I be looking for?

 

Bronc76

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The gears are available in kits from places like Precision Gear, Summit, etc.... There are different ones to choose from and there should be bearing kits available also.

 
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mamazog

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I actually talked with a few of the companies that offer both kits and local-ish installation, and all I have to say is OUCH, lol. Lucky for me, many of the stores also have e-bay stores up and running where they move the same products at lower costs to the consumer... sometimes a forty dollar difference. So now I have my eye on a D44 4.88 reverse ring and pinion kit, D44 IFS 92 and down install kit with seals and stub axle bearing, and a D44 30 spline standard case 3.92 & up2-3/8" deck... the best price combo for these three items is 365.58. Before I dive right in, can anyone think of anything to add or omit?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo,

Yes; do you have the ****** Style (Top Hat) Locking Hubs?

hublocksflange.jpg

Also, don't do the steering gear box adjstment (pre-load) until last resort.

87 to Early 88 ****** Style (Top Hat) Hubs are different than other Broncos; "...This was another of Ford's better ideas. For 87 and early 88 Ford used a one-piece locking hub assembly. This hub simply sits between the wheel and brake rotor and is held in place by the wheel studs. This type of hub is very easy to remove (simply remove the wheel), but it is different from all other Broncos and therefore parts and replacement hubs are expensive and hard to find. To convert your 87-88 Bronco to the "standard" hubs you'll need to swap all the parts from the spindle out from a Bronco or F-150. It may even be possible to take these parts from any vehicle with a Dana 44 front axle and the same wheel bolt pattern as the Bronco (5 on 5.5"). If you are considering this swap it would be a good time to consider the 8 lug axle swap you've always wanted (see section 10.2)..." Source: by Matt K at off-road.com via web.archive.org

87 to Early 88 ****** Style (Top Hat) Hub Knuckle Out Conversion Kit pic (a product); This is for your 1987-88 Ford Bronco or F150 with the one piece lockout hub design. This will convert you to the 1980-86 and 89-92 Ford Bronco and F150 style front axle. This Kit Includes: OEM Dana Spindles (left and right); OEM Dana Outer Axle Shafts (left and right); Mile Marker (lifetime warranty) Lockout Hubs; Inner Wheel Bearings (left and right); Outer Wheel Bearings (left and right); New Hub and Rotor Assembly With Wheel Studs (left and right); OEM Dana/Spicer U-Joints (left and right); OEM Dana/Spicer Spindle Nuts and Washers (left and right); Hub Oil Seals (left and right); Ball joints. NOTE: Ball joints are not pictured. RECOMMEND ALSO REPLACING AXLE PIVOT BUSHINGS!!..."; miesk5 NOTE; year range is incorrect

Source: by Jeff's Bronco Graveyard broncograveyard.com http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-32136-1987-88-knuckle-out-conversion.html'>http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-32136-1987-88-knuckle-out-conversion.html

Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.

http://broncograveyard.com

87 to Early 88 ****** Style (Top Hat) Hub Knuckle Out Conversion to Warn® 6 ***** Premium Manual hubs Info & pics in an 88

Source: by Eric D (Beast, B-Man) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4291/30076-2

 
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mamazog

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Awwwwwww man! Why cant this just be a simple gear swap? Lol

 

Bully Bob

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If I'm reading correctly., you don't have to do the hubs at this time, however it would be simpler as it's all apart.

I think what I'd do is remove one hub., clean & insp. If nothing is beat-up & worn.., then do the same to the other hub. (also insp. the spindles)

If everything looks good., you could pull the axles so as to get the diff. out, & the 488's in. Then re-assemble.

The bad is, if/when you want to do the hub update., you have to do it all again. (except the pulling of the diff.)

The good is, you'll know how to do it...when time & funds permit >:D< <'> :D/

"MODS LAW" It seems for every 4x4 mod..., there's usually a couple more mods needed to make it all work..!!

Just say'n...

 
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