voltage regulator on the back of instrument cluster

[joe bronco]

I have a 1969 Bronco V8, the fuel gauge is always pegged on full. The fuel gauge will go to empty once the ignition key is turned off.

I've read about the floats being stuck but wonder how much the constant voltage regulator on the instrument cluster has to do with needle deflection? I wonder if that is also what's wrong with the water temp. and oil gauge as well?

Does anyone have any specs. on the voltage or advice?

Joe

 

[Seabronc]

I have a 1969 Bronco V8, the fuel gauge is always pegged on full. The fuel gauge will go to empty once the ignition key is turned off.I've read about the floats being stuck but wonder how much the constant voltage regulator on the instrument cluster has to do with needle deflection? I wonder if that is also what's wrong with the water temp. and oil gauge as well?

Does anyone have any specs. on the voltage or advice?

Joe

Yes, the IVR operates all three of them. Very likely it is bad.

Good luck,

>-

 

[joe bronco]

Yes, the IVR operates all three of them. Very likely it is bad.
Good luck,

>-

Thanks I'll stick a DVM on it and order the replacement.

joe

 

[Bully Bob]

"...constant voltage regulator on the instrument cluster has to do with needle deflection? I wonder if that is also what's wrong with the water temp. and oil gauge as well?"

YES to the above...but, also look for a short somwhere...or wired incorrectly.

That mini reg. (at least on the older ones) has an adj. "nub" for minor fine tuning. (I made my own tool)

You didn't say.., does the oil & temp peg as well with key on..?

 

[Seabronc]

"...constant voltage regulator on the instrument cluster has to do with needle deflection? I wonder if that is also what's wrong with the water temp. and oil gauge as well?"YES to the above...but, also look for a short somwhere...or wired incorrectly.

That mini reg. (at least on the older ones) has an adj. "nub" for minor fine tuning. (I made my own tool)

You didn't say.., does the oil & temp peg as well with key on..?

I wasn't aware that the older ones were adjustable. Here is a page from the 83 EVTM that is still relevant.

Good luck,

>-

 

[broncotom81]

Hey guys, jumping in a little late here. My temp auge works, voltage works, both tanks work, speedo works. Oil pressure does not and pegs all the way up. It didnt have a sensor when I bought the bronco but the fitting was there (plugged) and the wire. after reading this i'll check to see if it is grounded tomorrow or has high resistance. what causes the false high reading? also, my instrument lights only work with high beams, and what is the purpose of the red light above the speedo? sorry for all the questions

 

[Bully Bob]

"I wasn't aware that the older ones were adjustable."

To be a bit more specific.., it's more than likely a factory "pre-set" nub (rectangular in shape & down in a hole).... but it does alter the needle settings maybe 5-10%.

Tom81

"...what is the purpose of the red light above the speedo? "

Hi beam indicator light.

-----Not sure what veh. you're refering to.....Seabronc is your go to guy for wiring issues. (sounds like some crossed wires., or dirty switches)

 

[broncotom81]

just a follow up, on my 71 the gauge lights were not working with the hibeams (It just seemed like one bulb was working becuase the red light's bulb shined a little on the guage). After needlessly taking the cluster out, I found out that in just the right dimmer position the cluster lit up. After alot of working the old variable resistor back and forth, the dimmer works pretty good now. Sorry for the false alarm...like my wife says, sometimes i ask before i look.

My oil pressure is still abit screwy. If you turn the key on nothing happens (which is right), but when you start the motor it goes all the way up past 90 and never comes down. I bought the pressure sensor from autozone, is it possible it is the wrong one? I dont think I have high oil pressure, its running great. I want to keep the truck stock, should I get a cheap 15 buck oil gauge to use to confirm the oil pressure and then take it back out? I plan on checking the wire resistance from the gauge to the sensor, maybe there is a bad connection somewhere?

tom talalaj

 

[Bully Bob]

Hay Tom.., you're doing fine..!

"....oil pressure......If you turn the key on nothing happens (which is right)"

Well, sorta. Usually., when the key is turned on, the needle moves fr. below "0" up tp "0" ...then climbs once eng. is running.

"..bought the pressure sensor from autozone, is it possible it is the wrong one?"

The oil press. send. unit is pretty basic but anything is poss. (double check that)

"..should I get a cheap 15 buck oil gauge to use to confirm the oil pressure?"

Seems to me., AutoZone rents oil pres. testing units (actually, for free)

These needle gauges are delicate, yet, lasted all these years. However they can fail. If I recall correctly, there's a pretty simple test proceedure for them in the book.

"...like my wife says"

Smart woman there......... ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

If you complete your "info" pages... it's a lot easier to get help here..... B)

 

[Ronco]

THOMAS Talalaj

I finally found you. I'm going to go ahead and assume that you found the bronco that you've been looking for. That's awesome man! Good luck with it. Get back at me and we'll meet up and go riding.

 

[montgomeryba]

I've had the same issues for a while with my 1970 Bronco - gas pegs full when on, empty when off, all gauges essentially do the same thing. I bought a voltage regulator now need to install the darn thing - crawled around under the dash - as much as I can in that tiny area and can't id where it is to replace - thought it was supposed to be on the back on the cluster but don't see it - maybe I'm just missing it but is it somewhere else? Appreciate any insights/instructions on replacing this thing from guys who have done it - any tips on how to make it easier or things not to do? THANKS!

 

[Bully Bob]

Welcome Montgomery..,

Sounds difficult but un-hooking the battery., then reach up & un-***** the speedo cable cap & pull it back a bit. Mainly do this by "feel".

Then you can remove the 4 screws & wiggle the cluster down & out so as to have access to the gage wiring & volt. reg. (It doesn't have to come completely out of the hole.., just enough so you can see what's there.)

Sometimes the fuel gage switch wire will pull off while doing this.

Also, when sure no wires/connectors are touching the dash metal., you can re-connect the bat. & test your current volt. reg. Should be 5-6 volts., & usually flickers. Cluster will need a temp. ground wire.

Unless one has "Mini-Me" hands., it's nearly impossible to do this fr. underneath. :-B

 

[montgomeryba]

Thanks! Yep, I have (probably like everyone else) huge problems getting under and behind the dash to do anything - plus wiring is my single largest weak spot so I get unnessesarily nervous and antsy about all of that kind of work. I've pretty much avoided doing any of that and worked my way under and in the engine compartment but now that I have to guess at how much gas I have, I'm forced to fix this thing.

Is there any hidden issues with pulling the speedo cable from the cluster? It looks simple so that makes me wonder what I'm missing. Also I need to put a temp. ground wire on when I test the cluster because of it being out of the dash and not grounded - correct? (sorry if I sound like a boob but - again, wiring = worry with me).

Thanks again, if you think of anything else tricky on this please let me know - I owe you big for the info and help!

Welcome Montgomery..,

Sounds difficult but un-hooking the battery., then reach up & un-***** the speedo cable cap & pull it back a bit. Mainly do this by "feel".

Then you can remove the 4 screws & wiggle the cluster down & out so as to have access to the gage wiring & volt. reg. (It doesn't have to come completely out of the hole.., just enough so you can see what's there.)

Sometimes the fuel gage switch wire will pull off while doing this.

Also, when sure no wires/connectors are touching the dash metal., you can re-connect the bat. & test your current volt. reg. Should be 5-6 volts., & usually flickers. Cluster will need a temp. ground wire.

Unless one has "Mini-Me" hands., it's nearly impossible to do this fr. underneath. :-B

 

[Bully Bob]

Like most anything else.., wiring is no biggie, after you've poked 'round with it a time or two..!!

"Is there any hidden issues with pulling the speedo cable from the cluster?"

Naw.., it's a finger *** & once un-screwed., you just pull a bit & the cable will pull out of it's square hole.

"Also I need to put a temp. ground wire on when I test the cluster because of it being out of the dash and not grounded-correct?" See.., you're already on your way to being a wiring Guru..!! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Yah., the cluster gets it ground when screwed to the dash...so a jumper is needed when it's loose.

Should you see a massive amount of dust on the back of the cluster...you can use a soft bristle brush & low air press fr. a compressor to clean it a bit. (you don't want to blow dirt down into the delicate instruments.)

These questions are common ...never fear to ask away...!!!! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

PS.., might want to start a new thread as we're walk'n all over Joe's here... all be it related...

 

[montgomeryba]

Thanks again for the advise, I think I will start a new thread so we don't use this one. One last question here & I'll work it in the new thread, I have a new voltage regulator I bought sometime last year before I deployed and I was looking at it today and it is marked for 66 Bronco. My rig is a 70 - do you know if there is any difference? Thanks again, and I'll move this to a new thread.

Like most anything else.., wiring is no biggie, after you've poked 'round with it a time or two..!!

"Is there any hidden issues with pulling the speedo cable from the cluster?"

Naw.., it's a finger *** & once un-screwed., you just pull a bit & the cable will pull out of it's square hole.

"Also I need to put a temp. ground wire on when I test the cluster because of it being out of the dash and not grounded-correct?" See.., you're already on your way to being a wiring Guru..!! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Yah., the cluster gets it ground when screwed to the dash...so a jumper is needed when it's loose.

Should you see a massive amount of dust on the back of the cluster...you can use a soft bristle brush & low air press fr. a compressor to clean it a bit. (you don't want to blow dirt down into the delicate instruments.)

These questions are common ...never fear to ask away...!!!! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

PS.., might want to start a new thread as we're walk'n all over Joe's here... all be it related...

 

[Bully Bob]

"I have a new voltage regulator I bought sometime last year before I deployed and I was looking at it today and it is marked for 66 Bronco. My rig is a 70 - do you know if there is any difference?"

I'm 99.9% sure there's no diff.

 

[bigbluebronc]

Like most anything else.., wiring is no biggie, after you've poked 'round with it a time or two..!!

Guys dont be afraid of wiring, think of it this way, no jacks and stands, no car too fall on our heads and body, super simple tools(screwdrivers and cutters and soildering is easy), no heavy lifting, no greasy hands well maybe dirty hands, With the right wiring diagram for your rig its just like replacing brakes or cams or water pumps... Follow the wire and check voltage..I would rather rewire a fuel guage then change wheel bearings...Good luck guys

BBB