transfer case

[mikey306]

does anyone have any sugestions? my transfer case makes grinding noise and dosent always enguage. also what is a good swap for the frount axle swap to a straight axle?

 

[Shadow_D]

Welcome to the Zone! >

When you pull the shifter back does it move straight back or does it follow the gate (I.E. back to 4X4 Hi then left then back to neutral then to 4X4 Lo)?

If it goes straight back then you need to use PB Blaster or some other kind of penetrating oil and lubricate the heck out of the ball cup under the truck at the shifter and work it back and forth to get it to follow the gate and that should fix your problem.

If it does follow the gate then the plastic fingers inside the case have worn out and need to be replaced.

 

[BLADE262US]

What year is it . That makes a difference as I have seen 3 different types of shifters . It may not be going inot gear like shadow_D is saying or is it making the grinding noise while engaged in 4X4 running down the road ? . If this is the case the oil pump may have failed and you should quit driving it till you find out the extent of the damage and can get some replacement parts . If its an 1980 to 1996 borg and warner T case you can easily rebuild it yourself . Theres a place on ebay where I get all my parts for stuff like that . The place has an ebay store called transmissionexchange search around a little bit . On ebay motors home page look for borg warner 1356 and it should come up with something if not try the name transmissionexchange . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[texan79&96]

the grinding noise your are hearing could be the chain....STOP DRIVING IT!!! ive had that happen to me. i was driving outta state in my 96 f150 and the rear seal on the bw1356 transfer case leaked all my fluid out. i guess that caused my chain to get hot and stretch but it sawed a hole on my case and the grit got in all the bearings and really screwed it up. i figured the chain would only spin in 4x4 and i wasnt so i dunno how it happened really. my hubs were unlocked but later i found one of the factory hubs had pieces missing (like the spring) so maybe driving 70 it was turning the t case from drag?? anyways a rebuilt case like that is around $1000. i got mine outta the junkyard off a f250 for a lot less. its a really simple case you need some big torx bits and some heavy-duty snap ring pliers. id take it off and split the cases to see whats goin on in there. also check the groove that holds the oil pump it can wear down and allow the pump to slip and not oil as it should. just clean it up good and use some rtv on it when putting it back together. as for the axle since you are in the 80-96 forum you are wanting to ditch the ttb as most people are. the 1980 model trucks frames were a little weaker than the newer ones and some companies offer lifts under 81-96 because of this but you can still use a 81 up lift on an 80. the ideal axle for the swap is a 78-79 bronco or regular cab f150 (the supercabs werent 5 lug and they had bigger brakes and leaf springs). they use reverse cut high pinion d44s (same diff you already got) but are about the same length and use radius arms and a track bar. the axles older than 78 will be standard cut low pinion (like a chevy) and you wont get as good a driveshaft angle on a lifted truck (you have to lift the 80-96 trucks 6" to fit a solid axle under the cross member) the older axles also had the radius arm "wedgies" welded on and before 76 they had drum brakes. you can get these axles from junkyards, the broncograveyard has some, and lots of guys on here have em for sale. i have 4 78-79 d44s but they are already spoken for on here. expect to pay $150-$500 in a junkyard. i found one for $30 but its not common to do that. the biggest pain of the swap is the tracbar mount cause the newer trucks dont really have a plae for them and there is lots of stress put on those things. fabritech makes a complete bolt in swap, as does jobrite. cage offroad is working on a new bolt in kit that seems like it will be worth waiting for. with lots of careful measurements and an experienced welder it can be done in a weekend at home with no kit. make sure to use 78-79 coil springs though as the ttb springs are of a different rate and too stiff. the 78-79 springs wont fit into the 80-96 coil buckets so its best to find a donor truck with everything on it like crossembers/coil buckets/ shock mounts...etc good luck!

 

[swampthing]

For the straight axle swap try to find a straight axle out of a 77 to 79 f-150 or bronco and make sure you get all the brackets needed to install it, and as for the transfer case it sounds to me like it could be the chain slapping around inside and as for not engaging there are forks inside which often get jammed from abuse and they will cause a nasty mess. My advice to you is to locate another transfer case and put that in.

 

[mikey306]

For the straight axle swap try to find a straight axle out of a 77 to 79 f-150 or bronco and make sure you get all the brackets needed to install it, and as for the transfer case it sounds to me like it could be the chain slapping around inside and as for not engaging there are forks inside which often get jammed from abuse and they will cause a nasty mess. My advice to you is to locate another transfer case and put that in.

17475[/snapback]

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im kinda new at this, do i need to just get a complete frount end from a straight axle 77- 79 f 150? also it is a 1989

 

[texan79&96]

any regular cab 73-79 d44 or 78-79 bronco d44 will work. the most desireable are the 78-79 d44s. these axles have reverse cut high pinion diffs. cast on radius arm tabs, and disk brakes. the reverse cut gears are supposed to be a little stronger than standard cut, but they are also high pinion, with means that the driveshaft attaches higher up than the ones older than 78. this is important when lifting a truck so you driveshaft angle isnt too bad and doesnt bind up. on your 89 you have to lift 6" for the axle to fit under it and not bang against things when your out bouncin around. you will need the entire axle hub to hub, the radius arms (the 80-96 ones are tottally different and will not work), the radius arm mounts (they are bolted to a crossmember on the old style it would be best to take the entire crossmember) and the coil buckets, because the old syle springs that attach to the new straight axle wont fit in the 89 spring bucket (the ttb springs are also too stiff for a straight axle the rates are different). you need all the steering linkage and the trac bar and its mount. also grab the shock mounts or get them off an 80s f250. these older radius arms use bushings to correct for lift. the bigggest bushing you can use is 7deg offest and that is only good for 4" of lift. you will have to drop the radius arm mounts at least 2" to do the swap. some just run 4" drop brackets from any aftermarket company for the ttb or the 70s style. it may actually be easier to use the 4" drop ttb brackets. the hardest part for most is the tracbar bracket. your 89 was never meant to have one so there really isnt a place for one. a place called cage offroad should have one out now when i talked to them it was gonna go for $110. just do some reasearch on the internet theres lots of guys with pages just about the swap. have fun with it good luck!