Fellas/Ladies, not only am I new to the forum, but new to owning a four wheel drive full size ford. I have owned my 1989 Bronco XLT for about two weeks. I bought it with the knowledge that something was wrong with the transfer case, but for what I payed for it, I thought it would be worth it. I had my mechanic change valve cover gaskets and the steering column to solve an oil leak and get rid of the red neck vice grips on the starting rod on the top side of column. After that was fixed I decided to take the Bronco on a short trip to the gas station. 1/2 mile down the road in 2wheel drive I hear a loud pop under the floor board and the truck won't go, just engine revving. I pull into a drive way, move the shifter from drive to park and vehicle starts moving again. I drive back to my mechanics house. He begins checking the transfer case and tranny. The truck won't move now in 2wheel drive or 4wheel high but drives fine in 4wheel low. The tranny as far as I can tell is a C6 three speed auto and shifts out just fine. I'm open for any advice or suggestions. I also have a picture of the transfer case tag that I will post if I can figure out how to post it. Has anyone ran into this before?
TRANSFER CASE ADVISE
- Thread starter CoyoteX
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Yo CoyoteX,
Welcome!
To post a pic from your PC, TABLET, etc., just below the reply box in lower right corner, click More Reply Options
Screen will change
See Attach files
pick out the pic
Click Attach This File
or click, Try our advanced uploader (requires Flash 9)
...
I am guessing that a previous owner or shop did not replace the as built Borg Warner
1356 Identification Tag pic
K139 2 1356
16909 E9TA
Source: by WoWoWoWolfchant
1356 Identification Tag pic in a 93;
"...The model number is cast into the rear housing, and sometimes stamped into an ID tag on a tailhousing bolt. This is a 93 EB Bronco1356 ESOF..." by Stephen
...
I'm guessing it's a 1356 Manual Shift:
One tip, "try manually shifting it at the t-case with everything disconnected. by kf4amu
response by alien 4444: "I disconnected the linkage and shifted it manually, everything worked the way it's supposed to in all ranges. I then reconnected everything and it's back to normal."
....
Cam-Gear Position Info in an 86 by equin:
"Just wanted to share my findings on the little cam-gear position with a manual 1356 swap. This is helpful mostly to those who haven't installed the shift linkage yet and are wondering what position to turn the cam (using a wrench) in order to select the proper gear (2hi, 4hi, neutral, 4lo). This is from a 1990 manual BW 1356 out of an F150 that I bolted up to the back of the E4OD on my 93 Bronco:
- 2hi - start by turning the cam back all the way (clockwise facing the passenger side) - with hubs unlocked, front driveshaft should move freely
- 4hi - turn it forward one click (counter-clockwise facing passenger side) - front driveshaft should not move once engaged for a bit
- neutral - turn cam forward one more click (counter-clockwise facing passenger side) - front driveshaft should move freely
- 4lo - turn it forward all the way (counter-clockwise facing passenger side) - front driveshaft should not move
I found this out the hard way - thought I had it in 4lo because the gear selector **** looks like this:
2hi
4hi
n
4lo
I mistakenly thought that 2hi would mean that the cam-gear on the t-case should be turned forward all the way (counter-clockwise facing passenger side). Instead, the cam-gear is moved in the opposite direction from the gear selector. Of course, since I don't have all the shift linkage parts, I couldn't get an image on how it works. Had I tested it out first by trying to move the front driveshaft, I would've realized I had it backwards when I thought it was in 2hi, when in fact it was in 4lo."
Comment by Shadofax: "This is very helpful for folks to remember when installing. If you don't get what equin is saying, you will when you play with the cam selector (as equin calls it)...it's the selector rod attached to the case. The position of this back or forward, relative to the shifter in the cab is not what you think it might be...until you think about it's operation."
1356 Manual Shift Parts Break-Out Diagram w/nomenclature
See parts #50 Fork Assembly, Shift, 2W-4W
[SIZE=21.8179px]#51, #55.[/SIZE]
"I've had this problem, and all you need is a quick and easy t-case rebuild. For what it's worth the shift fork is not plastic- it's aluminum with plastic wear-sliders. In any case, this is very common. The rebuild kit replaces the oil pump, pump bracket and pick up, the shift forks, and a shift collar if I remember correctly. My rebuild kit came off of eBay for about $100, and it's pretty easy to install. You'll need some big torx bits to open the case, a two jaw gear puller to remove the plastic speedo gear, and a good set of external snap ring pliers. While you have it torn down go ahead and inspect the case for wear where the oil pump bracket engages it.
Here is a pic of the bent oil pump bracket from when mine went south on me:
And here is the shift fork and collar. I was driving mine on the highway when mine just popped out of high range into neutral. I drove the next 40 miles home with my foot on the t-case lever forcibly holding it in high range. I'm pretty sure that Borg-Warner doesn't recommend that."
by Bronco Lounger
....
Just in case its the push button 1356
1356 Electric Shift Troubleshooting & Repair - BEST PROCESS! Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy)
...
FYI:
Next time, please fill out your Signature with year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. for better responses.
Click your name in right black panel in upper right;
In pop up,
Click, My Profile
Click, Edit My Profile in right side black panel
In left panel, Click, Edit Signature
Enter info
Click, Save Changes
...
Our sponsor, Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.
http://broncograveyard.com
...
Here are some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd
Welcome!
To post a pic from your PC, TABLET, etc., just below the reply box in lower right corner, click More Reply Options
Screen will change
See Attach files
pick out the pic
Click Attach This File
or click, Try our advanced uploader (requires Flash 9)
...
I am guessing that a previous owner or shop did not replace the as built Borg Warner
1356 Identification Tag pic
K139 2 1356
16909 E9TA
Source: by WoWoWoWolfchant
1356 Identification Tag pic in a 93;
"...The model number is cast into the rear housing, and sometimes stamped into an ID tag on a tailhousing bolt. This is a 93 EB Bronco1356 ESOF..." by Stephen
...
I'm guessing it's a 1356 Manual Shift:
One tip, "try manually shifting it at the t-case with everything disconnected. by kf4amu
response by alien 4444: "I disconnected the linkage and shifted it manually, everything worked the way it's supposed to in all ranges. I then reconnected everything and it's back to normal."
....
Cam-Gear Position Info in an 86 by equin:
"Just wanted to share my findings on the little cam-gear position with a manual 1356 swap. This is helpful mostly to those who haven't installed the shift linkage yet and are wondering what position to turn the cam (using a wrench) in order to select the proper gear (2hi, 4hi, neutral, 4lo). This is from a 1990 manual BW 1356 out of an F150 that I bolted up to the back of the E4OD on my 93 Bronco:
- 2hi - start by turning the cam back all the way (clockwise facing the passenger side) - with hubs unlocked, front driveshaft should move freely
- 4hi - turn it forward one click (counter-clockwise facing passenger side) - front driveshaft should not move once engaged for a bit
- neutral - turn cam forward one more click (counter-clockwise facing passenger side) - front driveshaft should move freely
- 4lo - turn it forward all the way (counter-clockwise facing passenger side) - front driveshaft should not move
I found this out the hard way - thought I had it in 4lo because the gear selector **** looks like this:
2hi
4hi
n
4lo
I mistakenly thought that 2hi would mean that the cam-gear on the t-case should be turned forward all the way (counter-clockwise facing passenger side). Instead, the cam-gear is moved in the opposite direction from the gear selector. Of course, since I don't have all the shift linkage parts, I couldn't get an image on how it works. Had I tested it out first by trying to move the front driveshaft, I would've realized I had it backwards when I thought it was in 2hi, when in fact it was in 4lo."
Comment by Shadofax: "This is very helpful for folks to remember when installing. If you don't get what equin is saying, you will when you play with the cam selector (as equin calls it)...it's the selector rod attached to the case. The position of this back or forward, relative to the shifter in the cab is not what you think it might be...until you think about it's operation."
1356 Manual Shift Parts Break-Out Diagram w/nomenclature
See parts #50 Fork Assembly, Shift, 2W-4W
[SIZE=21.8179px]#51, #55.[/SIZE]
"I've had this problem, and all you need is a quick and easy t-case rebuild. For what it's worth the shift fork is not plastic- it's aluminum with plastic wear-sliders. In any case, this is very common. The rebuild kit replaces the oil pump, pump bracket and pick up, the shift forks, and a shift collar if I remember correctly. My rebuild kit came off of eBay for about $100, and it's pretty easy to install. You'll need some big torx bits to open the case, a two jaw gear puller to remove the plastic speedo gear, and a good set of external snap ring pliers. While you have it torn down go ahead and inspect the case for wear where the oil pump bracket engages it.
Here is a pic of the bent oil pump bracket from when mine went south on me:
And here is the shift fork and collar. I was driving mine on the highway when mine just popped out of high range into neutral. I drove the next 40 miles home with my foot on the t-case lever forcibly holding it in high range. I'm pretty sure that Borg-Warner doesn't recommend that."
by Bronco Lounger
....
Just in case its the push button 1356
1356 Electric Shift Troubleshooting & Repair - BEST PROCESS! Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy)
...
FYI:
Next time, please fill out your Signature with year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. for better responses.
Click your name in right black panel in upper right;
In pop up,
Click, My Profile
Click, Edit My Profile in right side black panel
In left panel, Click, Edit Signature
Enter info
Click, Save Changes
...
Our sponsor, Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.
http://broncograveyard.com
...
Here are some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd
