Newbie here, I have a 1990 Bronco with 5.8, auto trans with overdrive override button on the dash. The engine runs good with 155758 miles, but it shifts very eratic, it acts like it is in a strain and kicks down at the slightest change in pressure on the pedal. You can also feel it downshift when coming to a stop, sometimes this is a hard downshift. I don't know if this is related but when the muffle burned out awhile back it melted the speedo cable and where it hooks to the transfer case. Thx in advance for any help.
Tranny Problems
- Thread starter broncobob
- Start date
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Seabronc
New member
So what did you do about the melted speedo cable and associated hardware?
yo,
I assume it is the E4OD trans?
Identification; Shift Indicator Patterns & Indicator pics (AOD, C6 & E4OD); "...Shifter w/a P-R-N-(D)-D-1 pattern is an AOD, note, OD is actually a (D) in a white circle, w/ Trans code T; P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter patternis an E4OD, Trans code E, D is actually a (D) in a white circle & P-R-N-D-2-1, shifter pattern is a C6, Trans code K
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
E4OD shift indicator pic by Chris A
Trans code: E
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19; http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
Have to rule out ignition issues that may cause this problem.
and any Codes found will help with:
This is a list of concerns that have been misdiagnosed as torque converter clutch shudder. For
Spark plugs - check for cracks, high resistance or broken insulators.
Plug wires.
Fuel injector - filter may be plugged.
Fuel contamination - engine runs poorly.
EGR valve - valve may let in too much exhaust gas and cause engine to run lean.
Vacuum leak - engine will not get correct air/fuel mixture.
MAP sensor - improper air/fuel mixture.
HO2S sensor - too rich/lean air/fuel mixture. Fuel pressure - may be too low.
Engine mounts -loose/damaged mounts can cause vibration concerns.
Axle joints - check for vibration
I assume it is the E4OD trans?
Identification; Shift Indicator Patterns & Indicator pics (AOD, C6 & E4OD); "...Shifter w/a P-R-N-(D)-D-1 pattern is an AOD, note, OD is actually a (D) in a white circle, w/ Trans code T; P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter patternis an E4OD, Trans code E, D is actually a (D) in a white circle & P-R-N-D-2-1, shifter pattern is a C6, Trans code K
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
E4OD shift indicator pic by Chris A
Trans code: E
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19; http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
Have to rule out ignition issues that may cause this problem.
and any Codes found will help with:
This is a list of concerns that have been misdiagnosed as torque converter clutch shudder. For
Spark plugs - check for cracks, high resistance or broken insulators.
Plug wires.
Fuel injector - filter may be plugged.
Fuel contamination - engine runs poorly.
EGR valve - valve may let in too much exhaust gas and cause engine to run lean.
Vacuum leak - engine will not get correct air/fuel mixture.
MAP sensor - improper air/fuel mixture.
HO2S sensor - too rich/lean air/fuel mixture. Fuel pressure - may be too low.
Engine mounts -loose/damaged mounts can cause vibration concerns.
Axle joints - check for vibration
Seabronc
New member
Yes, fix the obvious before you go looking for any other exotic problems.
Good luck,
BroncoJoe19
Active member
By any chance is your RABS light on too? (Rear Antilock Braking System)
IF so... the most likely problem is the RABS/VSS sensor that sits on the top of the rear diff.
Otherwise, pull codes like miesk5 suggested.
It could be a number of components that are failing, including MAP sensor, ACT, maybe TPS, so... I'd pull codes.
IF so... the most likely problem is the RABS/VSS sensor that sits on the top of the rear diff.
Otherwise, pull codes like miesk5 suggested.
It could be a number of components that are failing, including MAP sensor, ACT, maybe TPS, so... I'd pull codes.
Last edited by a moderator:
Well, I took the bronco to a local mech. who checked it out and found the engine had a burnt valve. The engine would build up power and tell the tranny to shift into overdrive then loose power and downshift, this is a continual cycle. Don't put the tranny in overdrive and everything works fine.The engin also has some base comoression issues, so thats it I, going to sell as is or scrape it out.
koontreeguy
New member
Krafty
New member
everything is fixable, it doesnt have to be the end of the road for the old bronco.
Rons beast
Active member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2007
- Messages
- 1,537
- Reaction score
- 14
I had a similar problem when I first got The Beast. Used seafoam in the gas, and did the straight Seafoam sucked into the intake. I killed mosquitoes for a square mile with the smoke that resulted! That also knocked off alot of carbon on the valves...ALOT, and the engine ran much better. I put another 50K on the motor and it's still going.
It may be worth a $10.00 can of Seafoam. The valves may be carboned so bad they are not closing tightly.
good Luck
It may be worth a $10.00 can of Seafoam. The valves may be carboned so bad they are not closing tightly.
good Luck
Agreed, don't give up so soon. If you decide you don't want it, try to sell it as is, before parting it out, it could wind up being someone else's project.
Guys, I hate to give up on this bronco but, I've always been a chevy man at heart and I have a '66 K-10 that needs my full attention. I inherited the bronco problem and can't afford both. Thanks for all your help and encouragement.
Last edited by a moderator:
Krafty
New member
well its too bad we couldn't infect you with the blue oval fever, maybe just put the bronco on ice for a little while until the bow tie is all dressed up.
I've gotten knee deep in my mopar build so I know what its like.
good luck, and keep us up to date on the 66.
krafty
I've gotten knee deep in my mopar build so I know what its like.
good luck, and keep us up to date on the 66.
krafty
berninicaco3
New member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2012
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
I'm going to hijack this thread 
A friend was given a 1989 bronco. It has many good points. New hoses all over the place and, believe it or not, the valve covers are NOT leaking. Miraculous, right?
The lower intake is leaking, though. Something, coolant or oil I couldn't say-- oil's more likely though right? Worth fixing, or leave it if not too bad?
I need to get the transmission code from him. So I don't know.
It is a 1989, and it has a 302/5.0L. First on the list is the air pump whose bearings are on the verge of seizing! Oh, and the steering's more playful than a 2 year old.
I digress.
It shakes, badly, in 3rd and 4th at least if not 2nd also.
It won't, ever, kickdown when you try to floor it.
tv cable IS hooked up, and correctly, it looks like. I own a crown vic, and there's an epidemic of roasted transmissions due to the tv cable bushing cracking and the cable falling off. It looks like the bronco/ truck 302 intake design is inherently more secure.
And, as it happens,the RABS light is on. The OP here seems to have described some related issues, and another poster brought this up. What the other poster was thinking, might indeed be my friend's problem.
So, what role does the RABS sensor/ VSS sensor play in shift patterns? Would it lead to a SHAKING vehicle, and inability to downshift? Could it damage, or have damaged, the transmission?
I'm not used to this technology My 1990 crown vic has no speed sensors and a crudely all-mechanical shift pattern, dictated between the mechanical governor, and the mechanical tv cable, and nothing else! If the bronco already had some electronics --the AODE didn't arrive until 1994, for crown vics, mustangs, etc.-- then some of my thinking might be from the wrong approach.
It's not impossible that the shaking vehicle is simple suspension work and imbalanced tires. It doesn't feel like it though; it's not strictly vehicle speed related. And even if the shaking is, there is something WRONG with the shift patterns. It shifts at like 1500rpm, feels like it has no power, and just shakes and doesn't go any faster when you try to floor it. Never downshifts. When you let off the gas it smooths up again. It really feels like a crown vic with an unhooked tv cable, though of course, that can't be it. It feels like clutches are slipping when you try to accelerate harder onto the highway.
But what it "feels like" to me could be all wrong and a red herring; my experience is still young.
A friend was given a 1989 bronco. It has many good points. New hoses all over the place and, believe it or not, the valve covers are NOT leaking. Miraculous, right?
The lower intake is leaking, though. Something, coolant or oil I couldn't say-- oil's more likely though right? Worth fixing, or leave it if not too bad?
I need to get the transmission code from him. So I don't know.
It is a 1989, and it has a 302/5.0L. First on the list is the air pump whose bearings are on the verge of seizing! Oh, and the steering's more playful than a 2 year old.
I digress.
It shakes, badly, in 3rd and 4th at least if not 2nd also.
It won't, ever, kickdown when you try to floor it.
tv cable IS hooked up, and correctly, it looks like. I own a crown vic, and there's an epidemic of roasted transmissions due to the tv cable bushing cracking and the cable falling off. It looks like the bronco/ truck 302 intake design is inherently more secure.
And, as it happens,the RABS light is on. The OP here seems to have described some related issues, and another poster brought this up. What the other poster was thinking, might indeed be my friend's problem.
So, what role does the RABS sensor/ VSS sensor play in shift patterns? Would it lead to a SHAKING vehicle, and inability to downshift? Could it damage, or have damaged, the transmission?
I'm not used to this technology
My 1990 crown vic has no speed sensors and a crudely all-mechanical shift pattern, dictated between the mechanical governor, and the mechanical tv cable, and nothing else! If the bronco already had some electronics --the AODE didn't arrive until 1994, for crown vics, mustangs, etc.-- then some of my thinking might be from the wrong approach.It's not impossible that the shaking vehicle is simple suspension work and imbalanced tires. It doesn't feel like it though; it's not strictly vehicle speed related. And even if the shaking is, there is something WRONG with the shift patterns. It shifts at like 1500rpm, feels like it has no power, and just shakes and doesn't go any faster when you try to floor it. Never downshifts. When you let off the gas it smooths up again. It really feels like a crown vic with an unhooked tv cable, though of course, that can't be it. It feels like clutches are slipping when you try to accelerate harder onto the highway.
But what it "feels like" to me could be all wrong and a red herring; my experience is still young.
Last edited by a moderator:
yo berninicaco3,
Appears to be the AOD because you mentioned da Throttle Valve (TV)
AOD have 14 pan bolts,
P-R-N-(D)-D-1 shifter pattern, note, OD is actually a (D)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/RampageFSJ/a4-1.jpg
pic by trigger
C6 have 17 pan bolts,
P-R-N-D-2-1, shifter pattern
http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/C6ShiftIndicatorpic.JPG
pic by miesk5
E4OD have 20 pan bolts;
P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter pattern
pic by Chris A
=======
the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that someone removed it.
So is CEL lit at any time?
Regardless, try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
===========
Next see my AOD section @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=59
for LINKs to, for example;
AOD Trouble Shooting, COMPREHENSIVE; "...from the AOD service manual..." Source: by duanemyhre at sccoa.com
ONE EXCERPT: "...Shift Trouble Diagnosis
TV Control Cable System
A. Symptoms: Excessively early and/or soft upshifts with or without slip-bump feel. Slip-bump feel on light throttle shift into and out of fourth gear (3-4 and/or 4-3 shifts). No forced downshift (kickdown) function at appropriate speeds.
Cause: TV control cable set too long.
Remedy: Reset cable per procedure for the TV control cable system.
CAUTION:
Do not drive vehicle if cable is broken or disconnected at throttle body lever.
Damage to friction elements in transmission may result due to excessive slipping since TV pressure will remain near zero. If it is necessary to drive vehicle before servicing or resetting cable, disconnect cable at the transmission lever. TV pressure will not be near maximum, allowing light throttle operation. However, shift will be delayed and harsh.
Remedy: Replace/reconnect cable and reset per procedure for the TV control cable system..."
READ MUCH MORE
============
Throttle Valve (TV) Cable Adjustment & Diagrams; Using a 100 psi pressure gauge to the TV port on transmission
Two methods of TV system adjustment are available.
1. TV cable adjustment with engine off.
2. TV control pressure check and adjustment procedure with engine on.
The Throttle Valve (TV) Control Cable System consists of a cable attaching stud on the throttle body throttle lever, the TV Control Cable Assembly, the External TV Control Lever on the transmission, and the Cable Mounting Brackets at the throttle body and transmission. As the throttle body lever is moved from idle to wide open throttle (WOT), the TV control cable pulls the transmission TV control lever from idle to WOT. Return of the cable and transmission lever towards idle is accomplished by the return spring on the transmission end of the cable assembly. This spring and the end of the cable assembly is protected by a flexible rubber boot. The transmission external TV control lever actuates the internal TV control mechanism which regulates the TV control pressure. The travel of this lever is controlled by stops internal to the transmission.
The TV control cable is set and locked to its proper length during initial assembly by pushing in the locking tab at the throttle body end of the cable assembly. When the tab is unlocked, the cable is released for adjustment. The take-up spring at this end of the cable automatically tensions the cable when released. With the slack taken up and the locking tab pushed in, the take-up spring plays no part in the operation of the system.
Under normal circumstances, it should not be necessary to alter or readjust the initial setting of the TV control cable. Situations requiring readjustment of the TV control cable include maintenance involving the removal and/or replacement of the throttle body, transmission, or TV cable assembly.
When the TV control cable is properly set, the transmission TV control lever will be at its internal idle stop (lever to rear as far as it will travel) when the throttle body throttle lever is at its idle stop.
TV Cable Adjustment with Engine Off
Note: At accelerator pedal WOT, the transmission TV control lever will not be at its WOT stop. The wide open throttle position must not be used as a reference point for adjusting the TV control cable.
Idle Speed Affect on the TV Control Cable
The 5.0L (302 CID) EFI Engines use an air By-Pass ISC that does not affect throttle position. Therefore, idle automatic setting does not affect TV Cable adjustment.
TV Cable Adjustment Procedure, Retention Spring
1. Set parking brake and put selector in N (do not put selector in P).
2. Remove the protective cover over the cable linkage (F-150-250 and Bronco vehicles only).
3. Verify that the throttle lever is at the idle stop. If it isn't, check for binding or interference in the throttle system. Do not attempt to adjust idle stop.
4. Verify that the cable routing is free of sharp bends or pressure points and that the cable operates freely. Lubricate the TV lever ball stud with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K (ESA-M1C75- B) or equivalent if necessary. Check for damage to cable or rubber boot.
5. Unlock the locking tab at the throttle body end by prying up with a small screwdriver to free the cable.
6. A retention spring must be installed on the TV control lever at the transmission, to hold it in the idle position (as far to rear as the lever will travel) with about ten pounds of force. If a suitable single spring is not available, two V8 TV return springs may be used. Attach retention spring(s) to the transmission TV lever and hook rear end of spring to the transmission case.
7. With the TV cable locking tab unlocked and the retention spring in place, rotate the transmission outer TV lever 10-30 degrees and return slowly.
8. Push down on the locking tab until flush.
9. Remove the retention spring(s) from the transmission TV lever.
TV Control Pressure Check and Adjustment with Engine On
NOTE: This procedure requires the use of TV Pressure Gauge with Hose T86L-70002-A or equivalent. The results of the adjustment procedure depend on the accuracy of the pressure gauge. The pressure gauge should be checked (and recalibrated if necessary) approximately four times a year or when the following occurs:
a. The needle will not return to 0 psi under no pressure.
b. The needle goes past 0 psi (negative side) under no pressure.
c. Bumping or dropping a pressure gauge.
1. Attach TV Pressure Gauge with Hose T86L-70002-A or equivalent to the TV port on the transmission. On some applications it might be easier to use the TV Pressure Fitting Service Tool No. D80L-77001-A.
2. Remove the protective cover over the cable linkage.
3. Insert the tapered end of the Cable TV Control Pressure Gauge Tool T86L-70332-A between the crimped slug on the end of the cable and the plastic cable fitting that attaches to the throttle lever. Push in gauge tool, forcing the crimped slug away from the plastic fitting. Make sure gauge tool is pushed in as far as it will go.
4. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature is reached (approximately 5-10 min. with transmission in park). The transmission fluid temperature should be approximately 100-150°F. Do not make pressure check if transmission fluid is cold or too hot to touch.
5. Set parking brake and place shift selector in N (neutral). With gauge block in place and engine idling in neutral, the TV pressure should be 33 ± 5 psi. For best transmission function, set the TV pressure as close as possible to the mean (average) pressure using the following procedure.
NOTE: Do not check or set TV pressure in P (park).
6. Unlock the TV Cable Locking Tab at the throttle body bracket. The adjuster preload spring should cause the adjusting slider to move away from the throttle body and the TV pressure should increase.
7. Push on the slider from behind the bracket until the TV pressure is 33 psi. While still holding the slider, push down on locking tab as far as it will go, locking slider in position.
NOTE: An increase of 1-2 psi is possible when transmission is shifted from NEUTRAL to a forward gear. This is considered normal and no compensation should be made.
8. Remove gauge tool, allowing cable to return to its normal idle position. With the engine still idling in neutral, TV pressure must be at or near zero (less than 5 psi). If not, reinstall gauge tool. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 but set the TV pressure to a pressure lower than previously set but not less than 26 psi. Remove gauge tool and recheck TV pressure to determine if it is at or near zero.
Throttle Valve (TV) Cable Adjustment; Using a 100 psi pressure gauge to the TV port on transmission; "...If you don't have a gauge, or you are looking for a roughly correct place to start, you can remove the cable from the throttle body lever, and adjust it so that the cable is neither slack, nor under tension when the cable is reinstalled on the throttle body lever. This will get you fairly close. We do not reccomend this for a final setting. You should always use a gauge to verify your TV setting..." Source: by Mike B at Baumann Engineering baumannengineering.com
Appears to be the AOD because you mentioned da Throttle Valve (TV)
AOD have 14 pan bolts,
P-R-N-(D)-D-1 shifter pattern, note, OD is actually a (D)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/RampageFSJ/a4-1.jpg
pic by trigger
C6 have 17 pan bolts,
P-R-N-D-2-1, shifter pattern
http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/C6ShiftIndicatorpic.JPG
pic by miesk5
E4OD have 20 pan bolts;
P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter pattern
pic by Chris A
=======
the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that someone removed it.
So is CEL lit at any time?
Regardless, try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
===========
Next see my AOD section @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=59
for LINKs to, for example;
AOD Trouble Shooting, COMPREHENSIVE; "...from the AOD service manual..." Source: by duanemyhre at sccoa.com
ONE EXCERPT: "...Shift Trouble Diagnosis
TV Control Cable System
A. Symptoms: Excessively early and/or soft upshifts with or without slip-bump feel. Slip-bump feel on light throttle shift into and out of fourth gear (3-4 and/or 4-3 shifts). No forced downshift (kickdown) function at appropriate speeds.
Cause: TV control cable set too long.
Remedy: Reset cable per procedure for the TV control cable system.
CAUTION:
Do not drive vehicle if cable is broken or disconnected at throttle body lever.
Damage to friction elements in transmission may result due to excessive slipping since TV pressure will remain near zero. If it is necessary to drive vehicle before servicing or resetting cable, disconnect cable at the transmission lever. TV pressure will not be near maximum, allowing light throttle operation. However, shift will be delayed and harsh.
Remedy: Replace/reconnect cable and reset per procedure for the TV control cable system..."
READ MUCH MORE
============
Throttle Valve (TV) Cable Adjustment & Diagrams; Using a 100 psi pressure gauge to the TV port on transmission
Two methods of TV system adjustment are available.
1. TV cable adjustment with engine off.
2. TV control pressure check and adjustment procedure with engine on.
The Throttle Valve (TV) Control Cable System consists of a cable attaching stud on the throttle body throttle lever, the TV Control Cable Assembly, the External TV Control Lever on the transmission, and the Cable Mounting Brackets at the throttle body and transmission. As the throttle body lever is moved from idle to wide open throttle (WOT), the TV control cable pulls the transmission TV control lever from idle to WOT. Return of the cable and transmission lever towards idle is accomplished by the return spring on the transmission end of the cable assembly. This spring and the end of the cable assembly is protected by a flexible rubber boot. The transmission external TV control lever actuates the internal TV control mechanism which regulates the TV control pressure. The travel of this lever is controlled by stops internal to the transmission.
The TV control cable is set and locked to its proper length during initial assembly by pushing in the locking tab at the throttle body end of the cable assembly. When the tab is unlocked, the cable is released for adjustment. The take-up spring at this end of the cable automatically tensions the cable when released. With the slack taken up and the locking tab pushed in, the take-up spring plays no part in the operation of the system.
Under normal circumstances, it should not be necessary to alter or readjust the initial setting of the TV control cable. Situations requiring readjustment of the TV control cable include maintenance involving the removal and/or replacement of the throttle body, transmission, or TV cable assembly.
When the TV control cable is properly set, the transmission TV control lever will be at its internal idle stop (lever to rear as far as it will travel) when the throttle body throttle lever is at its idle stop.
TV Cable Adjustment with Engine Off
Note: At accelerator pedal WOT, the transmission TV control lever will not be at its WOT stop. The wide open throttle position must not be used as a reference point for adjusting the TV control cable.
Idle Speed Affect on the TV Control Cable
The 5.0L (302 CID) EFI Engines use an air By-Pass ISC that does not affect throttle position. Therefore, idle automatic setting does not affect TV Cable adjustment.
TV Cable Adjustment Procedure, Retention Spring
1. Set parking brake and put selector in N (do not put selector in P).
2. Remove the protective cover over the cable linkage (F-150-250 and Bronco vehicles only).
3. Verify that the throttle lever is at the idle stop. If it isn't, check for binding or interference in the throttle system. Do not attempt to adjust idle stop.
4. Verify that the cable routing is free of sharp bends or pressure points and that the cable operates freely. Lubricate the TV lever ball stud with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K (ESA-M1C75- B) or equivalent if necessary. Check for damage to cable or rubber boot.
5. Unlock the locking tab at the throttle body end by prying up with a small screwdriver to free the cable.
6. A retention spring must be installed on the TV control lever at the transmission, to hold it in the idle position (as far to rear as the lever will travel) with about ten pounds of force. If a suitable single spring is not available, two V8 TV return springs may be used. Attach retention spring(s) to the transmission TV lever and hook rear end of spring to the transmission case.
7. With the TV cable locking tab unlocked and the retention spring in place, rotate the transmission outer TV lever 10-30 degrees and return slowly.
8. Push down on the locking tab until flush.
9. Remove the retention spring(s) from the transmission TV lever.
TV Control Pressure Check and Adjustment with Engine On
NOTE: This procedure requires the use of TV Pressure Gauge with Hose T86L-70002-A or equivalent. The results of the adjustment procedure depend on the accuracy of the pressure gauge. The pressure gauge should be checked (and recalibrated if necessary) approximately four times a year or when the following occurs:
a. The needle will not return to 0 psi under no pressure.
b. The needle goes past 0 psi (negative side) under no pressure.
c. Bumping or dropping a pressure gauge.
1. Attach TV Pressure Gauge with Hose T86L-70002-A or equivalent to the TV port on the transmission. On some applications it might be easier to use the TV Pressure Fitting Service Tool No. D80L-77001-A.
2. Remove the protective cover over the cable linkage.
3. Insert the tapered end of the Cable TV Control Pressure Gauge Tool T86L-70332-A between the crimped slug on the end of the cable and the plastic cable fitting that attaches to the throttle lever. Push in gauge tool, forcing the crimped slug away from the plastic fitting. Make sure gauge tool is pushed in as far as it will go.
4. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature is reached (approximately 5-10 min. with transmission in park). The transmission fluid temperature should be approximately 100-150°F. Do not make pressure check if transmission fluid is cold or too hot to touch.
5. Set parking brake and place shift selector in N (neutral). With gauge block in place and engine idling in neutral, the TV pressure should be 33 ± 5 psi. For best transmission function, set the TV pressure as close as possible to the mean (average) pressure using the following procedure.
NOTE: Do not check or set TV pressure in P (park).
6. Unlock the TV Cable Locking Tab at the throttle body bracket. The adjuster preload spring should cause the adjusting slider to move away from the throttle body and the TV pressure should increase.
7. Push on the slider from behind the bracket until the TV pressure is 33 psi. While still holding the slider, push down on locking tab as far as it will go, locking slider in position.
NOTE: An increase of 1-2 psi is possible when transmission is shifted from NEUTRAL to a forward gear. This is considered normal and no compensation should be made.
8. Remove gauge tool, allowing cable to return to its normal idle position. With the engine still idling in neutral, TV pressure must be at or near zero (less than 5 psi). If not, reinstall gauge tool. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 but set the TV pressure to a pressure lower than previously set but not less than 26 psi. Remove gauge tool and recheck TV pressure to determine if it is at or near zero.
Throttle Valve (TV) Cable Adjustment; Using a 100 psi pressure gauge to the TV port on transmission; "...If you don't have a gauge, or you are looking for a roughly correct place to start, you can remove the cable from the throttle body lever, and adjust it so that the cable is neither slack, nor under tension when the cable is reinstalled on the throttle body lever. This will get you fairly close. We do not reccomend this for a final setting. You should always use a gauge to verify your TV setting..." Source: by Mike B at Baumann Engineering baumannengineering.com
yo,
Sorry, had to post quickly because Comcast cable is unreliable;
RABS sensor/ VSS sensor will not affect the AOD shift points or operation; it will in E4OD though.
RABS light
Anti-Lock Brake (ABS) - RABS (RABS II 87-92)
RABS Self Test Diagnostic Connector Location pic in a 90; "...It comes out of a large loom under the dash, coming through the firewall, near the parking brake. On mine there are 2 similar connectors in that area, the correct one has only 1 black & orange wire running to it, & was hidden on top of the loom..."
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at
in an 88; "...it is next to the brake pedal which this is a picture of and is C111; It has the one wire that is black/orange.."
Source: by Jem270
RABS Self Test & Diagnosis Codes; "...The possible flashout codes are listed and explained in the Flash Codes Chart. Note that Codes 1 and 16 are not used. Flashout Codes Whenever the yellow REAR ABS light comes on during normal operation, a flashout code may be obtained to aid in problem diagnosis. If the vehicle is shut off before the code is read from a RABS-I module, the code will be lost. In some cases, the code may reappear when the vehicle is restarted. In other cases, the vehicle may have to be driven to reproduce the problem and, if the problem was associated with an intermittent condition, it may be difficult to reproduce. Therefore, whenever possible, it is recommended that the code be read before the vehicle is shut off. RABS II modules have been designed with Keep Alive Memory to preserve stored codes during key-off, and are to be used to service all prior year RABS I systems, except for 1987 and 1988 Bronco II vehicles. WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE FLASHOUT CODE IS BEING TAKEN. NOTE: If the red BRAKE light is also on, due to a grounding of the fluid level circuit (perhaps low brake fluid), no flashout code will be flashed and the REAR ABS light will remain on steadily. NOTE: If there is more than one system fault only the first recognized flashout code may be obtained. Obtaining the Flashout Code A flashout code may be obtained only when the yellow REAR ABS light is on. No code will be flashed if the system is OK. There are certain faults (those associated with the fluid level switch or loss of power to the module) that will cause the system to be deactivated and the REAR ABS light to be illuminated, but will not provide a diagnostic flashout code. Before obtaining the flashout code, drive the vehicle to a level area, and place the shift lever in PARK for automatic transmissions and NEUTRAL for manual transmissions. Notice whether the red BRAKE light is on or not (for future reference) and then apply the parking brake. If a RABS(-1) module is installed, keep the ignition key in the ON position so that the code will not be lost. RABS II modules have been designed with Keep Alive Memory to preserve stored codes during key-off, and are to be used to service all prior year RABS I systems, except for 1987 and 1988 Bronco II vehicles. WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE FLASHOUT CODE IS BEING TAKEN. To obtain the flashout code, locate the RABS diagnostic connector (with the Bk/Or wire), and attach a jumper wire to it. Momentarily ground it to the chassis. When the ground is made and then broken, the REAR ABS light should begin to flash. NOTE: If the red BRAKE light was on (as noticed before the parking brake was applied), the problem may be with the low fluid level circuit and, in this case, no flashout code will be flashed and the light will remain on steadily. The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates Flashout Code Four. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. It is recommended that the code be verified by reading it several times. In addition, the first code flashed may be too short because it may have been started in the middle. It should be ignored..."
Sorry, had to post quickly because Comcast cable is unreliable;
RABS sensor/ VSS sensor will not affect the AOD shift points or operation; it will in E4OD though.
RABS light
Anti-Lock Brake (ABS) - RABS (RABS II 87-92)
RABS Self Test Diagnostic Connector Location pic in a 90; "...It comes out of a large loom under the dash, coming through the firewall, near the parking brake. On mine there are 2 similar connectors in that area, the correct one has only 1 black & orange wire running to it, & was hidden on top of the loom..."
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at
in an 88; "...it is next to the brake pedal which this is a picture of and is C111; It has the one wire that is black/orange.."
Source: by Jem270
RABS Self Test & Diagnosis Codes; "...The possible flashout codes are listed and explained in the Flash Codes Chart. Note that Codes 1 and 16 are not used. Flashout Codes Whenever the yellow REAR ABS light comes on during normal operation, a flashout code may be obtained to aid in problem diagnosis. If the vehicle is shut off before the code is read from a RABS-I module, the code will be lost. In some cases, the code may reappear when the vehicle is restarted. In other cases, the vehicle may have to be driven to reproduce the problem and, if the problem was associated with an intermittent condition, it may be difficult to reproduce. Therefore, whenever possible, it is recommended that the code be read before the vehicle is shut off. RABS II modules have been designed with Keep Alive Memory to preserve stored codes during key-off, and are to be used to service all prior year RABS I systems, except for 1987 and 1988 Bronco II vehicles. WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE FLASHOUT CODE IS BEING TAKEN. NOTE: If the red BRAKE light is also on, due to a grounding of the fluid level circuit (perhaps low brake fluid), no flashout code will be flashed and the REAR ABS light will remain on steadily. NOTE: If there is more than one system fault only the first recognized flashout code may be obtained. Obtaining the Flashout Code A flashout code may be obtained only when the yellow REAR ABS light is on. No code will be flashed if the system is OK. There are certain faults (those associated with the fluid level switch or loss of power to the module) that will cause the system to be deactivated and the REAR ABS light to be illuminated, but will not provide a diagnostic flashout code. Before obtaining the flashout code, drive the vehicle to a level area, and place the shift lever in PARK for automatic transmissions and NEUTRAL for manual transmissions. Notice whether the red BRAKE light is on or not (for future reference) and then apply the parking brake. If a RABS(-1) module is installed, keep the ignition key in the ON position so that the code will not be lost. RABS II modules have been designed with Keep Alive Memory to preserve stored codes during key-off, and are to be used to service all prior year RABS I systems, except for 1987 and 1988 Bronco II vehicles. WARNING: PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE FLASHOUT CODE IS BEING TAKEN. To obtain the flashout code, locate the RABS diagnostic connector (with the Bk/Or wire), and attach a jumper wire to it. Momentarily ground it to the chassis. When the ground is made and then broken, the REAR ABS light should begin to flash. NOTE: If the red BRAKE light was on (as noticed before the parking brake was applied), the problem may be with the low fluid level circuit and, in this case, no flashout code will be flashed and the light will remain on steadily. The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates Flashout Code Four. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. It is recommended that the code be verified by reading it several times. In addition, the first code flashed may be too short because it may have been started in the middle. It should be ignored..."
