Tic, tic, tic

[RockNBronco96]

Well hunting season was a success, not for me of course - I can't get drawn for anything other than squat... But my buddy managed to get his first elk, a young spike bull, I got to enjoy being his guide.

We took my Bronco as his Jeep couldn't handle the trailer load and it performed great, but the check engine light flashed 5 or 6 times and then stayed on about 30 minutes into the trip. I managed to get it checked before the trip home and it was only a misfire on cylinder 7. The light was reset and has not came back on. What has me concerned is I now have a lifter tapping that I don't ever recall hearing before. I took it into a mechanic that has worked on it before and he says it's not problem and to put a qt. of Lucas oil in it on my next oil change. (It's loud when first started but almost goes away after a while when it warmed up)

My questions are what would cause the lifter to start tapping, should I be concerned and if I decide to have it fixed is this an expensive repair.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Rock,
From 1996 Bronco O/F-Series Workshop Manual partial @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm

• Engine Noise

• ●Malfunctioning hydraulic valve tappet.	REPLACE hydraulic valve tappet.
  	Excessive hydraulic valve tappet clearance.	Measure & if necessary ADJUST clearance or REPLACE hydraulic valve tappet guide.
  	Broken valve spring.	If necessary REPLACE valve spring.
  	Excessive valve guide clearance.	Measure & if necessary SERVICE clearance or REPLACE valve guide/stem.

Before replacing a hydraulic valve tappet (6500) for noisy operation, verify the noise is not caused by improperly adjusted valve-to-rocker arm clearance or by worn rocker arms (6564) or push rods (6565).

Removal

1. Remove the intake manifold (9424) and related parts.
2. Disconnect secondary air injection manifold tube (9B449) at the secondary air injection pump (AIR pump) (9A486) and place it out of the way.
3. Remove the valve cover (6582), then loosen the valve rocker arm fulcrum bolts and rotate the rocker arms to the side.
4. 
5. 
   
6. Remove the push rods in sequence so that they can be installed in their original positions.
   emove the valve tappets and place them in a rack so that they can be installed in their original bores.
   If necessary to disassemble a valve tappet, refer to Valve Tappet, Hydraulic in the Disassembly and Assembly portion of this section.

Installation

1. NOTE: Valve tappets and bores are to be lubricated with engine oil of the quality recommended in the Owner Guide before installation.
   Clean the external surfaces and install the valve tappets in the bores from which they were removed using suitable hydraulic tappet puller. If a new valve tappet is being installed, check the new valve tappet for a free fit in the bore in which it is to be installed. Lubricate the valve tappet and bore with recommended quality engine oil before inserting the valve tappet.
2. Lubricate the ends of the push rods with Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESB-M1C93-B and ESR-M1C159-A and install the push rods in their original positions. Apply Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESB-M1C93-B and ESR-M1C159-A to the valve stem tip.
3. Lubricate the rocker arms and rocker arm seats (6A528) with Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESB-M1C93-B and ESR-M1C159-A and position the rocker arms over the push rod. Tighten rocker arm fulcrum bolts to 24-34 Nm (18-25 lb-ft).
4. Install the valve covers.
5. Reconnect secondary air injection manifold tubes.
6. Install the intake manifold.

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