The break people my A@@!

[Roninseattle]

I have a 1994 XLT. I'm at 120,000 miles

The breaks went too long last summer and the Rotors had to be resurfaced and pads replaced... Or so I was told.. We took the car to one shaddy Midas location last July and that's what we did....

After there repair work, the car had developed a "dead spot" in the breaks. (This wasn't their before.) The breaks engage as expected until you get mostly to the bottom... at which point it looses grip for a short time re-engaging at the lower end of the depression and then pulls to the left a little. It's basically happens right before the car would comes to a complete stop.

So, I took it to another Meineke location that was rated higher then the first. The Tech there said the first shop messed up real bad. Some nonsense about width and how they shouldn't have resurfaced but replaced and left air in the line... yatta.. yattaa.. yatta.... So we got some new rotors, apologies and discounts but still had to buy new rotors. The end result is the new shop tightened it all up real good. The Tech then said the pedals is still a little spongy and He thought we should replace the Master cylinder in a few months or so. The breaks were also still squeaking and was told that's dust and would go away. But it never did. Money was tight... so flash forward to today and it's really gotten worse. Should we re-place the master cylinder? (I can't see any leaks or paint bubbling) I also noticed the rims on side were more dirty then the side. (Maybe that side is not engaging as much?)

The breaks haven't totally failed yet, but I'm worried that I could be damaging the rotors again. We mainly use the car to go on camping trips or occasional trips to work. We got one trip in to the mountainside planed next month and I'm not about to go with out reliable breaks.

 

[chuckles1856]

Roninseattle,

Breaks are a real pain sometimes. One thing to keep in mind is that these things are rubbing together to make the truck stop so stuff has to wear out eventually. It sounds like you're worries are about messing up the rotors again and really the only way to prevent it is to check the brake pads every so often and make sure you haven wore through them. There are probably some pictures around if not I'll try and dig some up.

So, if you're not mechanically inclined ( you'll need to pull each wheel off ) then maybe when you take the truck in to have the tires rotated you can ask to look at your brakes while they have the wheels off.

In any case, I'm not a brake expert. But I do know that if the truck is still stopping then the brakes are working. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> One thing that gives me a piece of mind is checking the emergency brake. Since this is just a mechanical device to engage the rear brakes and a total bypass of the hydraulics ( master cylinder, brake fluid, etc ). If it slows me down that means the back brakes are working to do it.

So what do you mean by really worse? Spongy pedal? Pedal sinks to the floor?

Hope this gives you some piece of mind.

 

[MUZZALL]

I would try rebleading the brakes, all four for good measure. If that fails try a new master cylinder. Master cylinders can fail internally without external signs due to cup or bore damage/deterioration.

 

[92bronco_in_progress]

i would check to make sure that the calipers and compressing properly first and foremost, you may have a siezed caliper. then i would go to a master cylinder, always check the cheaper stuff first its a good way to save money since you said money is a little tight

 

[txomyboy]

Do you still have the break problem? if you do this is what you need to do

Clean the front ABS sensors, they are located at the top of the back calipers support. The reason the breaks are doind that is because the sensors have some metal parts that came from the resurfaced of the rotors, and because of that the ABS sistem asums that the wheel is lock so it releases presure to that wheel, thats wy you feel the pedal spongy.

If you dont find the sensors or is to hard of a job, take the Bronco to the breake shop and tell dem to just clean the front ABS sensors, and that's it, your problem is solved.

 

[muddrivermike]

As stupid as this sounds Ive seen that before when a hub bearing is loose,It just grabs at the wrong time but you should see more symptoms than that though.I would kind of have to go along with 92 bronco,you could have a siezed piston NOT grabbing like It should OR a bad brake hose thats collapsed.If you have either one,One of two things could be happening either one side isnt grabbing enough or one side isnt grabbing too much.Pull the front wheels and compare the thickness of both sides,If theres a good problem you'll notice it,like the left side is worn down more than the right side.Also after you get the brakes to heat up real good,jack it up and spin the front wheels by hand and see if either one is harder to turn than the other,that should be obvious enough.Keep us posted /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[txomyboy]

believe when i said that the problem is dirty ABS sensors, i had that problem about 2 years ago.

I answer this cuestion in june or july 2007 with the hole explination of wy a dirty ABS sensor will do that, i just look for that answer but i didn

 

[muddrivermike]

believe when i said that the problem is dirty ABS sensors, i had that problem about 2 years ago.
I answer this cuestion in june or july 2007 with the hole explination of wy a dirty ABS sensor will do that, i just look for that answer but i didn

 

[txomyboy]

Hey man I DIDNT say that your post was incorrect,In fact our rav 4,and highlander toyotas have that problem on the rear ABS sensors.Rust builds up between the ABS sensor bracket and the knuckle pushing the sensor farther away from the tone ring causing the ABS to kick in right before you stop.So I dont know if you thought I was trying to crush your speculation ,but I wasnt.

Ok bro no heart feelings