Starting problem

[gng92bronco]

Hello I have a 92 bronco with a 5.8 that starts fine and runs fine except for when I shut it off and it sits for about a half an hour or so then it is hard to get it to start it cranks and cranks then will finally start. when it starts it runs rough for a couple of seconds then seems to clear out and run fine no problems while driving. It started this about 2 weeks ago and does the same thing every time I shut it off and it sits awhile. but if I let it sit over night or for several hours it will start fine no problems. one time it would only crank and not start had to let it sit a few hours then it started fine. things I have replaced to try to fix problem are plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil and tps I also checked for vacuum leaks. any help would be greatly  appreciated this is driving me crazy and don't want to get stranded when miles away from home. thank you for your help.

 

[miesk5]

yo G,

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded

A helper is good to assist in reading Codes; best is to take a cell fone vid and replay it.

Some basics;

Visual Check

Battery is fully charged

1.Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.

.Check the transmission fluid level and quality. See E4OD Fluid Condition Check Below)

7.Make all necessary repairs before continuing

8. Check headlights

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Turn off all accessories; radio, lights, A/C, heater, blower, fans, etc. (close driver's door)

Then turn off engine and wait 10 seconds.

Do KOEO test First

Post Code(s) here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

See the 94 Ford PCED Diagnostic Routines Index @ http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/vra02005.htm

Concerns, Hard Start/Long Crank/Erratic Start/Erratic Crank Chart Number 2

Good for vacuum check; as Ford states, "When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. ALWAYS SERVICE VACUUM LEAKS"

This includes the HVAC system under dash and in engine bay; as long as all air flow comes thru proper registers on dash, floor and defroster HVAC vac system is ok

Anyway, here is my Vacuum Leak Test http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/

post #20

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

Also,

Fords produced from 1983 through 1995 experience problems with the engine dying or failing to start when hot. The engine will run again once it cools down but die when it gets hot.

The problem is caused by the thick film ignition (TFI) modules, a key ignition-system component that Ford installed in more than 22 million vehicles it manufactured and sold in the 1983 through 1995 model years. The TFI module regulates the electrical current that fires the air-fuel mixture in each of the engine's cylinders.

Overview & Wave Form, Ford; "...The stator is a Hall Effect device, which uses a magnetic field. It sits under the distributor cap and picks up a signal from a wheel with teeth. (miesk5 NOTE; this wheel is a rotary armature that has open areas called windows and tabs, called vanes). The wheel has the same number of teeth as cylinders in the engine and moves at the same speed as the distributor and camshaft. If you have a V8 then the wheel has eight teeth; seven teeth are the same and one tooth is smaller to identify cylinder #1. As the wheel spins with the distributor is breaks the magnetic field of the hall devise generating a sine wave. This sine wave is called the raw Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal and indicates the engine status at 10deg. BTDC. Now some people think the TFI is responsible for this, but that is incorrect; the PIP signal passes threw the TFI unaltered to the computer. This sensor is so accurate that cam changes can be a bad thing. The computer is programmed when to open fuel injectors in relation to the valve timing from PIP. Changing the valve timing with a cam swap won't be noticed by the computer. So optimal performance and idle will not be to their true potential. As I've said on other pages this sensor is extremely important. Without it working properly the computer never senses the engine moving and the entire vehicle is a paper weight. If you have a distributor mounted TFI, it too can be the problem, because the PIP signal must pass through it to the computer. The stator and TFI both share the same grounds and power circuits, when one fails the other might be bad as well. It's a standard practice at dealerships and most quality repair shops to replace the TFI and stator at the same time. This prevents the problem from re-appearing a few weeks latter..."

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://web.archive.org/web/20110414071058/http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=25

Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition, this article is for you. With the tests, you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) or the Spark Plug Wires or the Distributor Cap. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. READ MORE @ http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/ignition-module-tests-1

 

[Seabronc]

Being too lazy to read through all of the miesk5, if he didn't include it, that is a common symptom of the pickup coil inside the distributor.

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