nine milly
New member
hello once again only a little problem this time maybe a bare wire or something.. its not the starter the starter relay is going a wire if you jump it then shell start up with no problem help please
starting problem
- Thread starter nine milly
- Start date
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Seabronc
New member
Would like to help you, but it would really help if you could describe the problem better. Do you mean if you jump it from another vehicle?
Also, you need to add the truck vitals to your signature.
1. Click on your user id at the top right hand side
2. Click on the line that says "MY Profile"
3. Click on "Edit My Profile"
4. On the left side click on "Change Signature"
5. In the Box that says "Edit Signature" enter what ever you want to show up automatically every time you make a post. Include in that things like Year of truck, engine, transmission, gearing, etc.
6.When you are finished click on "Save Changes" . Above the edit box will appear what will be displayed every time you post.
7. If you are happy with it, go back to the top of the page and click on Forums followed by clicking on new content.
Good luck,
DNBELOWBRONCO
Member
Fred's right, pop in some info. If it starts when you jump the terminals with a screwdriver, and you don't see any obvious wire issues, then it's most likely the starter relay. In layman's terms if it starts when you bridge the gap then the contact is stuck closed. If it starts but won't disengage the starter, like my old '70 Mustang 351W did firing up my new motor $-) , then it's got to be traced down but probably an ignition switch, key & cylinder, etc...either way the relay's, Motorcraft don't buy cheap aftermarket ones you'll get bad new ones, are like $14-$20 from Ford depending on your discount. I know it's important to trace things down but if it hasn't been replaced in a long time it's probably over due anyhow. I know, my mind's screwed up. That's why I always have so much into my vehicles, but I can run through my mind what has been done and what needs to be done, basically why some of my posts are at 4 am in the morning with my wife sleeping next to me....lol. >
-Kevin-
-Kevin-
Last edited by a moderator:
yo,
nine milly has an 89 Bronco ...
We have asked nine milly to post the Year, engine, etc. in past.
some thAngs to try;
"...turne the key onto crank(nothing happened), reach low on the column, just below the dash, and shove pick tool into the column and pull down. That thing not only rolled over but it started...SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD (with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP. the switches die but they can also "walk" up the column and and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch(it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die)..."
Source: by Sixlitre
No Start Troubleshooting;
"...First thing to check is wiring.
Between the large posts of your starter relay should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)/Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS), Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or NSS/MLPS with an AOD/E4OD, to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid (if equipped) and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit.
Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem.
Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily.
& If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the Park/NSS/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch.
Check to see if da relay is tight to inner fender with no corrosion because the relay's body is ground path via inner fender). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS/MLPS) Or clutch safety switch. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is...";
MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms;
MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PIP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PIP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}. Hopefully it could be a dead cell in da battery.
by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)
nine milly has an 89 Bronco ...
We have asked nine milly to post the Year, engine, etc. in past.
some thAngs to try;
"...turne the key onto crank(nothing happened), reach low on the column, just below the dash, and shove pick tool into the column and pull down. That thing not only rolled over but it started...SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD (with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP. the switches die but they can also "walk" up the column and and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch(it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die)..."
Source: by Sixlitre
No Start Troubleshooting;
"...First thing to check is wiring.
Between the large posts of your starter relay should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)/Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS), Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or NSS/MLPS with an AOD/E4OD, to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid (if equipped) and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit.
Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem.
Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily.
& If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the Park/NSS/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch.
Check to see if da relay is tight to inner fender with no corrosion because the relay's body is ground path via inner fender). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS/MLPS) Or clutch safety switch. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is...";
MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms;
MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PIP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PIP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}. Hopefully it could be a dead cell in da battery.
by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)
