Starting Issue

[chuckles1856]

Greetings All,

I've been dealing with this starting issue for a while now and it really baffles me.

Here's the steps/progression of things as I see them happen:

1) Bronco sets all night or for days or even weeks

2) crank it ... it starts no issues

3) drive to store and park it

4) come out and crank it.... it starts but seems a little weak

5) drive to store2 and park it

6) come out and crank it.... it starts but seems weaker yet

7) get on the highway, drive 10 miles to store3 and park it

8) come out and crank it.... it starts but it's really weak, so weak that I'm thinking I better not stop again

9) drive home and park for the night or approx 8 hours

11) crank it after extended time... it starts no issues

Here are my thoughts:

1) Alternator issue -- then wouldn't start the 2nd morning

2) Battery issue -- flat out wouldn't start

3) Cable issue -- wouldn't start

4) Starter -- less than a year old it shouldn't be flaky but could be

Other thoughts:

1) Coil ?

2) Relay between battery and starter

3) Grounding of starter -- guy at shop told me oil gets between the housing (which acts as the ground) and prevents good contact

oil accumulates while driving but doesn't have enough time to drain off thereby causing issues within a day but let it sit a while and it drains

off?

4) Heat issue? Something is heating up and malfunctioning?

Your thoughts?

 

[Bully Bob]

This has the "ear-markings" of "runn'n on the battery".

A batt. can recover a bit overnight.

----when you say "weak" .., what does that mean..? (Turns over slowly..?)---

If you haven't tested the alternator.., do so.

In your "other thoughts"

The only one that is suspect up front, would be the failing solenoid (relay).

 

[miesk5]

yo,

in addition to what BOB advises;

Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later.

If this happens measure the S.G. in each cell. If one cell has a lower S.G. than the rest by a significant amount, replace the battery - there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory.

Since you most likely have a sealed batty, have it tested for free at Wal Mart, etc. They can confirm or rule out a Dead/shorted Cell

It happened to me a few yrs ago

NO crank, no horn/headlights

Sat there for a second, 0500 hrs; then

turned key to start

a slow crank - let it crank a while, then it fired and ran; volt meter showed in good range

Shut it off and it fired up

Tried again later, but a slow crank - thn it fired and ran

Check batty + & - cables and wire strands up to clamps and see if they are corroded

see if corrosion is travelling on strands to inside of clamps/connectors

 

[chuckles1856]

Bob --- yes, weak meaning turning over slowly. Interesting that the batt. can recover overnight. Breaks my logic but then again my logic is pretty skewed. ;-)

Miesk5 -- funny you mention the batt and SG (specific gravity) I was thinking that when I took back assuming the issue was the battery. This was a while ago after it wouldn't start one day. The store ran all their battery tests on it and said it was fine. The guy mentioned the starter and oil around the housing issue. So, I pulled the starter, wiped it off and re-installed it. Truck fired right up.

So adding to my list I've got:

1) Alternator -- pull and check

2) SG of Battery -- check

Thanks for the thoughts and input! On a 21 year old vehicle you need all the help you can get. I guess I need to buy the Bronco a drink, being 21 and all. ;-)

 

[Bully Bob]

Hi Chuckles..,

"Interesting that the batt. can recover overnight."

This isn't in every case... & it's not going to get back to full charge. Just somewhat better cranking amps.

You can do a simple test of alt. in the vehicle, with a voltmeter.

Taking it out involves some busy work but a good test as well.

BTW.., in passing WE, in the neighborhood, have had nothing but trouble with the "6PACK" batteries..!!! We've gone thru 10 here...., none of them worked right, with various problems.

They're NOT so "OPTIMAL" after all. (This being a long story short..!)

We all went back to "real" batteries & ALL the problems vanished... Go figure..!

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Parasitic Current Drain; Diodes inside the alt could be shorted, thus causing drain, but the it would still put out 12 Volts, and pass the Voltage Output Test, however it could not put out full current, and would fail the Current Load Test.

Remove & Charge Battery and take voltage reading (No-Load (voltage should be in the range of 14.1 to 14.7 volts). Disconnect alternator, then re-install battery for a day or so & then check batty voltage again; if no drain, then diodes are prob the issue. or Take alt it to a parts store where they can BENCH-test it for free. BTW, The voltage should be between 13.0 and 15.0 volts w/engine idling.

With the engine running at 2000 rpm, check the alternator output voltage. The voltage should be between 13.0 and 15.0 volts.

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. On some late model vehicles dating back to 1994, the wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily. This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter. You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."

Source: by genco via miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums