Smoke 'em out

[rebel33382]

Has Anyone tried to find a vacuum leak with any kind of smoke. I really dont want to open up the loom behind the manifold and start cracking stuff. besides hands on, is there any trade secrets to finding vacuum leaks???

Thanks!

 

[miesk5]

Has Anyone tried to find a vacuum leak with any kind of smoke. I really dont want to open up the loom behind the manifold and start cracking stuff. besides hands on, is there any trade secrets to finding vacuum leaks???
Thanks!

yo!

First, use a a hose or cardboard gift wrap tube to try to localize the leak with the engine running.

Turn the engine off, then use a small spray bottle of extra-soapy water to spray the suspected area with a moderate amount of water.

With the engine idling, squirt small amounts of

 

[rebel33382]

Just went thru a whole bottle of carb cleaner. No increase and idle at all, off to buy a new evr

 

[miesk5]

Just went thru a whole bottle of carb cleaner. No increase and idle at all, off to buy a new evr

ok,

Did I see somewhere here in another post that you have DTC 332 or somethAng like that?

If so;

Look in my broncolinks.com site under EMISSIONs for DTC's on the EGY/EVP/EVR, etc. and Diagnostic Trouble Codes

DTCs 332, P1407, and/or P1408, TSB 96-23-4 Detonation Caused by buildup in the Exhaust Gas Re-circulation (EGR) groove of the intake manifold (throttle body base)

Source: by Ford via autorepair.about.com

basically you have to take the throttle body off, clean out the passages and put it back together with new gaskets...read more & view depiction

http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/U/Q/ford-egr_267c.gif

DTC 332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected. Atop the EGR valve there is a sensor called the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor. It detects movement of the pintle iside the EGR valve. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum barb on the EGR valve and observe through the holes in the casting whether the valve is moving or not. It may just be dirty which requires some careful scrubbing and NO SOLVENTS. Otherwise, if the EGR valve is functioning and moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first. (Computer needs to know the EGR valve position for emissions control).

DTC 332 & Possible Causes; "...EGR Valve Insufficient EGR Flow; EGR valve sticking closed EGR valve diaphragm leaks; EVR solenoid sticking closed; Loss of vacuum to or from EVR Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits; Leak or restriction in PFE/DPFE signal hoses..."

and the "EGR" or also called "Catalytic Converter Air Tube"... from EGR to.. exh man or cat.. whatever... is it intact? PCI makes Ford's and can be bought direct from PCI or NAPA, etc.. under $50.00 or diy.

PCI, Inc. - exhaust parts & accessories, air check valves, stainless steel flex tubes for DIY EGR tubes, A.I.R., Catalytic Converter, EGR tubes, etc.; w/Ford part numbers - order their catalog - very helpful tech person!!!! their products are also sold by NAPA, etc. http://www.pciinc.com/contact.cfm

EDIT..is this it?

http://www.pciinc.com/partdetail.cfm?pn=53

or

http://www.pciinc.com/partdetail.cfm?pn=111

 

[rebel33382]

my '95 doesnt have the crossover tube, jus the one pipe that goes into the exhaust manifold to the egr valve. I did "rod" it out even though there was no restriction. And I started it up with the tube off and had plenty of exhaust flow coming out the tube(along with stuf I scraped off).

Would this help me any???

http://neworleans.craigslist.org/tls/813243529.html

 

[miesk5]

ok,

Yes, a vac gauge will help; any type is good..better yet; one that can be perm. mounted on or under dash

Vacuum Gauge Tester Instructions

Source: by tradervar.com

Also, Sorry, I got you mixed up with another person elsewhere who has a DTC 332 too.

Check thru my broncolinks.com site under Emissions for EVP, EGR, etc. tests. I know Ryan M (fireguy50) has a lot of test info in his site

Now I don't recall if I gave you da following yet; can't seem to go back thru this entire thread in Reply Mode.. my laptop sux:

DTC 332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected. Atop the EGR valve there is a sensor called the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor. It detects movement of the pintle iside the EGR valve. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum barb on the EGR valve and observe through the holes in the casting whether the valve is moving or not. It may just be dirty which requires some careful scrubbing and NO SOLVENTS. Otherwise, if the EGR valve is functioning and moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first. (Computer needs to know the EGR valve position for emissions control).

Source: by greystreak92

DTC 332 & Possible Causes; "...EGR Valve Insufficient EGR Flow; EGR valve sticking closed EGR valve diaphragm leaks; EVR solenoid sticking closed; Loss of vacuum to or from EVR Open in EVR or driver circuits; Leak or restriction in PFE/DPFE signal hoses..."

Don't know if your yr has the Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor, (PFE) or a Differential Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor, (DPFE); if it is a CALIF vehicle, it does...

Ford has on-line Emission/etc Label that is = to the label on rad support in your Bronco; Ck all those vac sources/users for tiny leaks again

DTC, Repeated in 86-94; Troubleshooting, bucking or trailer hitching condition during shifting for 86-94

Source: by Ford via niehoff.com

"...SYMPTOM: Repeated PFE-DPFE Sensor Code

APPLICATION: FORD, All With PFE-DPFE Sensor (86-94)

Ford vehicles equipped with a Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor, (PFE) or a Differential Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor, (DPFE) may experience repeated occurrence of false EGR system codes and possible incorrect replacement of components due to limitations of the factory diagnostic procedures. While the Ford "H" manual does include reference to the EGR valve as a possible source of an EGR PFE Sensor code it does not address valves that "Hang" momentarily.

Our testing has found that contaminant build-up in the area of the EGR pintle shaft, or pintle seat may cause the valves on these applications to be slow in opening when the PCM commands additional vacuum be applied to the valve. Sensing that insufficient EGR is occurring the PCM commands for more vacuum to the EGR valve. When the valve does pop open the combination of valve inertia and vacuum build-up cause the valve to over travel. This creates the sensed excessive EGR condition that triggers the false code.

Drivers complaints usually include a bucking or trailer hitching condition during shifting or initial off-idle acceleration as part of the driveability complaint, which can be especially noticeable on manual transmission equipped vehicles. EGR valve replacement is the recommended service.

A similar false code may also occur if the metering orifice located in the intake below the EGR valve and DPFE sensor is restricted. This type of problem will not create a trailer hitching condition but loss of fuel economy will be noted. Cleaning the orifice will correct this condition.

Always check to make sure that the ground straps are in place and complete connections are made..."

See Link for depictions

[url="Idle Air Bypass (IAB) Overview & Testing; "First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I

 

[miesk5]

I had a heckuva time getting that Reply entered here bec of 34 error codes saying "The URl is not approved by Site Management" or something like that; but the error didn't site which URL is banned; so I had to delete a few hot links; you can find em all in my site.

 

[rebel33382]

well I was not happy with the vacuum line I replaced the green plastic one with. I thought it might have been to small, so got a larger one, cleared the codes, CEL back on in 2 min. I just remembered I have a ground dangling on the passenger frame rail right by the front sway bar, I doubt this ground could cause the 332, but will get it on tomorrow when I get up. I really would like some help on checking the evr plug and egr positioner plug (female sides, wire harness side)!!??? Hold my hand kind of thing, to see if I have power or whatever, my electrical skills ****

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Try reading posts #16 and #17 of this thread.

It will be informative, if not helpful.

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=70938

Good luck

joe

 

[miesk5]

well I was not happy with the vacuum line I replaced the green plastic one with. I thought it might have been to small, so got a larger one, cleared the codes, CEL back on in 2 min. I just remembered I have a ground dangling on the passenger frame rail right by the front sway bar, I doubt this ground could cause the 332, but will get it on tomorrow when I get up. I really would like some help on checking the evr plug and egr positioner plug (female sides, wire harness side)!!??? Hold my hand kind of thing, to see if I have power or whatever, my electrical skills ****

EVR Overview & Test Source: by Ryan M

-----------------------

EVP Operation & Testing, Ford Source: by Ryan M

EVP Operation & Testing, Ford Source: by Tomco Inc. tomco-inc.com

Print or Open both test Links in diff Browser Windows to see what each terminal is;

Here is what Tomco advises in the tests:

"...The EVP sensor has a three terminal connector. (Fig. 2)

One terminal carries a 5.0 volt reference signal (VREF in Ryan's diagram) from the ECA.

Another terminal, which Ford calls the signal return (SIG RTN in Ryan's diagram), provides a ground for the sensor.

The last terminal is the EVP signal sent back to the computer.

You'll need a mulitmeter & vacuum pump.

EVP sensor. Disconnect the wiring connector from the EVP sensor. Connect one lead of the analog ohmmeter to the EVP signal side of the sensor. (Fig. 8) Connect the other lead to the voltage reference side ((VREF ) of the sensor. Place

the ohmmeter on the 200 K OHM scale. Connect a vacuum pump to the EGR valve.

While watching the ohmmeter, gradually and steadily apply vacuum to the EGR valve (not exceeding

10 PSI). The ohmmeter should show a steady decrease in the OHM reading. If the ohmmeter

needle has any sharp movements or shows a slight increase while applying the vacuum, the sensor is bad..."

Also a tip I found a few yrs ago and have in my WORD file;

when you disassemble the EVP Sensor from the EGR valve you must determine which was at fault. Also be careful to reassemble them with a new "O" ring. This will ensure that a vacuum leak doesn't occur.

 

[rebel33382]

Joe that link did not work!