sill idleing

[1966 roadster]

I'M BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ok I bought a NEW carb. stuck it on and to my surprise my bronco still just idles?????????????????????

I after i found the carb acting the SAME AS BEFORE i changed out the hard vacuum line for a rubber hose with new fittings on each end.

still no luck.

I pulled the rubber line off the side of the carb and blew into it. I could hear the diaphragm in side the vacuum opening and closing. so i pulled the cap off the dizzy and blew into the line again and watched the dizzy advance.

I'm lost... anyone out there think of anything else?

 

[Bully Bob]

Can't be...!!!

This is the biggest mystery of all..!!

RU sure the throttle cable is hooked up....? :lol: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Did you try shooting starting fluid into airhorn to see if RPM'S increased..?

Just the squirt fr. the accel. pump should increase RPM's.

The dizzy works on vacuum., not pressure.... but., at this point it's not your dizzy., it's got to be fuel.

Is the throttle plate moving when you open the throttle..?

 

[riggermortis]

are you sure that enough fuel is being supplied from the tank to the pump? maybe the line or pickup is plugged, therefore the pump cannot deliver fuel to the carb.

 

[1966 roadster]

YEAH TELL ME ABOUT IT!!!!!!!! I'm lost.. Its not like im rebuilding the space shuttle here.

So I pulled the main line off right before the filter and cranked the engine over, fuel puked out and hit the hood.

I looked down the air horn and manually gave it throttle and its squirting fuel down the air horn.

I also looked and the throttle plate IS OPENING.

I just got home from work so tomorrow I will get it running or idling in my case and spray starting fluid down the air horn and see what happens.

IF YOU CAN THINK OF ANYTHING ELSE FOR ME TO BUY TELL ME. AT THIS POINT I HAVE REPLACE ALMOST EVERYTHING I CAN THINK OF.

ITS ONLY MONEY I WILL MAKE MORE TOMORROW

 

[Bully Bob]

How funny...!! (at least fr. our end..,) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Fr. your pics., I can't see anything wrong. Pretty much the same set-up I have here.

The hard line runn'n fr. the intake manifold to the driver side... what does it go to..?

The line fr. the side of the carb. should go to the dizzy. (assuming that's the advance port on that carb.)

You said; "so i pulled the cap off the dizzy and blew into the line again and watched the dizzy advance."

The oposite is true...you should apply suction by mouth, & see if the dizzy advances.

There's nothing on the carb. that supplies air pressure. [-X

 

[1966 roadster]

Yeah its all good So the hard line running from the manifold over to the drivers side is a pre-bent line that runs to the TOP of the fuel pump.

I'm sure you know this but i will make it as clear as i can.. just to make sure I'm talking your talk.

on the top of the fuel pump is two "*******" one is a vacuum line that controls the windshield wipers "IT HAS WIPER STAMPED ON IT" and the other runs to the manifold. "I dont know what its purpose is? on the bottom of the carb is two ports. one is the inlet for the fuel and the other has a pre bent hard line that runs to the fuel filter before the carb.

You are right the port on the side of the carb goes to the dizzy.

OH ONE LAST THING...... THE THROTTLE CABLE IS HOOKED UP HAHA

 

[Bully Bob]

"So the hard line running from the manifold over to the drivers side is a pre-bent line that runs to the TOP of the fuel pump."

-- This is NOT correct..!

"on the top of the fuel pump is two "*******" one is a vacuum line that controls the windshield wipers "IT HAS WIPER STAMPED ON IT" and the other END runs to the manifold."

You have the same aft. mkt. elect. wipers as I. You need to plug that port on the manifold & plug off that ****** on the fuel pump. (The orig. set-up ran a line, from that port on the pump, to the wiper system.) May be better to put a rubber hose on that ****** (marked "wiper") & a lil' in-line fuel filter so it can breath.

(I have a later model fuel pump that DOESN'T have the vacuum port "******" for the wipers)

I don't know if this is causing your throttle problem., but it's not necessary to have this vac. line in the system.

"on the bottom of the carb is two ports. one is the inlet for the fuel and the other has a pre bent hard line that runs to the fuel filter before the carb."

--- HUH...? I think you mean.., there's a hard line from the pump to the filter., then into the carb. fuel inlet.

i.e. In your pic., I see a vac. port to dizzy --- a large hose to PCV --- & the fuel inlet.

 

[1966 roadster]

"So the hard line running from the manifold over to the drivers side is a pre-bent line that runs to the TOP of the fuel pump."

-- This is NOT correct..!

on the top of the fuel pump is two "*******" one is a vacuum line that controls the windshield wipers "IT HAS WIPER STAMPED ON IT" and the other END runs to the manifold.

You have the same aft. mkt. elect. wipers as I. You need to plug that port on the manifold & plug off that ****** on the fuel pump. (The orig. set-up ran a line, from that port on the pump, to the wiper system.) May be better to put a rubber hose on that ****** (marked "wiper") & a lil' in-line fuel filter so it can breath.

(I have a later model fuel pump that DOESN'T have the vacuum port "******" for the wipers)

??????????????????????????NOW when I replace the fuel pump I put everything back the way I found it. Your saying that I need to plug off the the manifold port???? and the port on the top of the fuel pump???????

THE WIPER LINE IS PLUGGED OFF NOW BECAUSE IT HAS ELECTRIC WIPERS. YOUR SAYING I SHOULD TAKE THE PLUG OUT??

 

[Bully Bob]

"Your saying that I need to plug off the the manifold port????"

YES

That "port" on the side of the intake manifold is "full vacuum". For example., I use it to operate a vac. gage on my dash.

The port on the fuel pump marked "wipers" is (was) used to operate the wipers.

That fuel pump is dual function....one side is "pressure" FUEL --- the other side

is "vacuum". This vacuum is (was) used to run wipers.

What you have is vacuum hooked to vacuum...fighting ea. other. The manifold probably being the stronger. I don't know if that could damage the pump as I've never had that style of pump.

"and (plug) the port on the top of the fuel pump???????"

YES.., except SOME pumps have a "fuel return line" on them....I doubt if that the case here but you need to be sure.

"THE WIPER LINE IS PLUGGED OFF NOW BECAUSE IT HAS ELECTRIC WIPERS. YOUR SAYING I SHOULD TAKE THE PLUG OUT??"

---- NO.....any part of the vac. wiper system downstream of (after) the pump is abandoned, I would assume, & doesn't matter if it's plugged or not. Only you can see what's been done there.

 

[1966 roadster]

OK EVERYTHING IS PLUGGED OFF... THE MANIFOLD- THE WIPER HOSE- AND BOTH PORTS ON THE TOP OF THE FUEL PUMP. THE TIMING IS SET AT 6 DEGREES AND THE POINTS ARE AT .025 I CAN GET IT TO REV UP BUT IT IS MISSING AND CHUGGING STILL. I'M TRYING TO ADJUST THE AIR FUEL MIXTURE NOW. CROSSING MY FINGERS

(801)637-7255 IF ITS EASIER TO CALL

 

[Bully Bob]

A thought after hearing it run over the phone.... It's still possible it's a bad timing chain..., which is an easy fix. (2 banana job) B)

With the timing light attached, & the vac. tube off the dizzy... the timing mark shouldn't jump around.

Another test is to turn the eng. by hand (key off.!) (using the crank pully bolt) back & forth, & see how long it takes the dizzy rotor to move. It should be almost instant.

That's what happened to my '73 EB V/8 ...it sputtered., I re-set the timing... it ran OK for a few days., then in a few more days., it quit altogether.

The timing chain & gears were "toast"..!

--Just a thought.

B

 

[1966 roadster]

ok I will try to make this clear as mud :blink: when idling the timing is constant.(pay attention here)

BUT it has a little rough spot in it. rough I mean kinda like a miss, but not really. just a burp? "I really dont know how to explain it? I guess a "miss" is the best word????

when it "misses" or hits its "rough" spot the timming jumps about 3 degrees advance but only 1 time and it only dose it when it hits its "rough" spot.

BUT REMEMBER...... I DID GET IT TO "REV" UP it just ran like the carb was way out of adjustment.

so whats your thoughts on the timing?????? IT DOSE JUMP 3degrees......

I have been talking to some older men like in their 80s and they say I still have a carb problem. my buddy is a mechanic :lol: :lol: he came over today and he has no clue. the younger generation wants to put it on a computer to pull codes. man I wish it was the 50s again

 

[Bully Bob]

The carb can do whatever it wants & it won't affect the timing short of stalling.

Tough to diagnose this stuff on a keyboard but it does sound like the timing chain/gear is sick.

Try the jogging of eng. with the crank pully nut & check the play at the dizzy rotor.

Timing set is cheap & not hard.... one & a half banana job....

BTW got your message...