Roof Rack Recommendation

[1978BroncoCustom]

Good evening All,

Looking for recommendations for a good fitting roof rack for a 1978 Bronco.  Roof load would be a canoe or Kayak so load bearing would need to be at least 100lbs.  Hate the idea of putting holes in the roof to mount the hardware but have not been able to find any other suitable solution. Thanks in advance.

Jim

 

[miesk5]

Yo Jim,

"Jeep racks are ideal because they are "rail mounted". Meaning, they have a rail that mounts the length of the roof. This is especially important because we're mounting them to a thin fiberglass surface. Because of this design, all of the weight (both the load placed on the crossbars, or the weight of the topper if used as lifting points) is distributed along the length of the roof rails. A lot of later model roof racks you'll find on donor vehicles aren't rail mounted. They only bolt to the roof at 4 or 6 points, which is not ideal for retrofitting to a fiberglass top."

by Brad

Yakima roof rack installation by 808bronco @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/15546/62961-2

FYI, camper top Swap, between 78-79, 80-91, 92-96; "...There are very few differences between the 80-91 and 92-96 tops. Some alignment pins is what it boils down to I think..."

Source: by Doba (SOLD)

So the diff years can use same rack.

Will look for more info later.bi

 

[1978BroncoCustom]

Thanks for the info and Yakima link. I will open it up and see what they have.

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

yw!

It was on it when I bought is, so I don't know the origin of it.

 by Stan Willis, on Flickr

Here's the backing plates on the inside.

and 

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

More.  Have to break up my replies due to some unknown rule about the type of pics.

JBfab 06:40 PM 02-03-2012 wrote, "I know it can hold my weight 160pounds in one small area with alittle flex. There is zero flex near the edge's by the windows so figure if u use four or more mounts near the outside edge i wouldnt be scared to put 300-400 pounds up there."

OldsRocket responded, "This is how I did mine;



The top will hold some weight as long as the load is spread out. I've climbed up and walked along the edges of mine, I wouldn't walk in the center. I wouldn't hesitate to lay down in the center (the load is spread out that way.) I'm 6'5" 268lbs. The roof rack came from a '96 4-door Explorer, but was cut down one mounting *****. The runners are uncut. T-nuts are much more expensive than blind nuts, so I broke the tabs off. The screws are stainless. I hate shiny things, but none of them are visible when the rack is installed."

 Some of the nuts have to be spaced down or shortened because the roof is so thin. Although silicone helps hold the nuts while screws are being installed, the first camper I did this to had none and never leaked. Using the shortest screws available (~1/2") allows a stock '92-96 headliner to fit. cut the front of the tracks down by 1 ***** hole and installed 2 rear crossbars because they can both be (re)moved without tools. The original front bar is screwed in place. I also added more tie-downs. Outside dimensions (after cutting it down) are 43"Lx42"Wx3.5"H The support runners are 42"L. Although I'm not using these gaskets, I replaced the trim in them. It's more difficult than installing the windows in the shell..." 

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

Fabrication & Installation Info & pics in 90 
Source: by t Bakes (Bakes5) 

"Here is my rack mostly finished. I just need to put a couple of crossbars in the outside sections and then set the other side up to accept the Thule racks as well. So far I have about an afternoon and 2 24' sticks of 3/4" square 16 guage tubing($10 a stick) so I guess about 4 hours and $20 into it. I have about another hr of work to go (4 cross bars for the sides then finish welding all the joints)."

 

[miesk5]

Yo,


Br0nco91 09:11 PM 02-08-2012 wrote, "I would like to note that the factory top on the bronco has a roll bar built into it. It is about 2inch square that runs form one back corner to the other. You might be able to figure out how to bolt into this to add strength.

You can kinda see it in this picture from Ranger429's soft top build. 



And thread here - Clicky ..,"

 

[miesk5]

Yo,


d4klutz 03:08 PM 02-09-2012 wrote, ,"

My roof rack can hold my weight plus the weight of a full-size 32" spare. Im 285lbs."
 
 
■"fasteners for the roof rack."

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

"I'm getting to put my roof rack on the Bronco, but before I start drilling holes, I wanted to touch base with you folks. Any thing I should be aware of before drilling through the roof? I've got 4 3x2 metal plates with 2 1/4" holes in each plate. 8 1/4" bolts total, with a matching 3x2" plate on the inside. Rubber and gasket sealer will be applied to stop water. The rack is 45" long by 40" wide. I was planning on centering it from side to side, and put the trailing edge of the rack even with the rear of the top.
/monthly_05_2011/post-9470-0-56569500-1306451088_thumb.jpg 
/monthly_05_2011/post-9470-0-64379600-1306451102_thumb.jpg 

..."

I replied "The silicone will help and you's see how thin the camper roof is when you drill."  @ http://broncozone.com/topic/21857-mounting-to-the-fiberglass-top/

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

Also see:

http://broncozone.com/topic/18564-safari-rack/

 

[1978BroncoCustom]

Thank you for all the info Al.  I think the Yakima line of racks will be what I pursue, a little pricey but seem to fit the need and very streamline. Then again, when it comes to drilling holes in the factory original roof, I may just sell the canoe.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Jim,

I understand.