Removing Brake Drums

[katmandaddy]

How do I remove the brake drums from the hub? I'm starting on another Dana 30 front axle. I did not need to remove the drums on the last project but this one will be completely disassembled.

It seems the lug studs have been flared at the base securing the drum. Do I get a skinny whole saw and grind the flare til the drum comes off??

Thanks for any help - first time poster!

 

[Purcell]

Put the lug nuts back on and drive the studs gently into the hub just far enough to release the drum, make sure the brakes are loose enough to let the drum slide. The flares just hold the drum on during initial assembly. Hope this helps

 

[Bully Bob]

"....flared at the base securing the drum. Do I get a skinny whole saw and grind the flare til the drum comes off??"

This would work... however, it's my guess it likely dirt & some rust. I use a hi-speed, small wire wheel around ea. lug & the hub center hole. Then some PB Blaster (penetrant)

Sometimes the flat part of the drum sticks as well. Some light tapping should break it loose.

Once cleaned..they (drums) pretty much drop on & off.

Worse case...as Purcell sug. Knocking the studs back can help.

 

[katmandaddy]

thanks, will give it a whirl

 

[BroncoJoe19]

As Purcel mentioned (make sure they are loose)

You may need to back of on the adjusting star a little bit to loosen the drum, especially if they are worn and groved a little bit. Otherwise the brake pads will get caught on the lip of the drum. One access teh adjusting star from behind the backing plate through a little access hole located in the bottom portion of the backing plate.

Be sure to peal back the rubber cups on your wheel cylinders and look for leaks.

 

[STLKIKN]

Those crimps are called "swedging" they were used on O.E. drums, you rarely see them anymore.

If you have an old school shop around your town, find the oldest mechanic there and ask if he has a swedge removal tool.

Old J**ps, Chryco products (cars and trucks) as well as several others used this method to retain front drums on the bearing hubs.

If the swedges are still completely intact, you will damage either the drum or the bearing hub by just trying to hammer them through.

The tool does look kind of like a hole saw, it fits fairly tight over the stud (allowing enough room for turning) and it has teeth that cut away at the crimping (swedge) The material on my own is almost 1/4" thick at the teeth, I use it with a drill at slow speed to ensure the bit does not overheat.

 

[STLKIKN]

A couple pics of the swedge tool I have, its marked "A-90"