Problems when i stop

[footmaster]

i got a '91 5.8 about 165,000 miles......while im driving as soon as i get to bout 35 mph i hear this sound in my front right tire, its like a basball card in a bike tire sort of sound. as im coming to a stop there is a hard clanking sound only a few times then the 'baseball card' noise stops.....i replaced the upper and lower ball joints and that seemed to fix the problem. i shifted into 4 wheel and sumthin didnt seem right like it wasnt engaged or someting hi or low. after that the noises came back. i think it has something to do with the auto locking hubs im not sure...the beaings r fine. any input would be appreciated. besides the noises it drives fine, no problems at all.

 

[Roadkill]

I think you auto-hub is shot. The reason the problem went away for a while after the ball joint replacement is that the hubs had to be removed and re-installed during the ball joint work. When you tried to engage 4x4, the autolocker jammed up again. Overhaul kits are available but I don't know the prices; replacement automatic hubs are pricey. Unless you are dead set on auto-hubs, I would recomend converting to a set of manual hubs. You can get a set of top of the line Warn Premiums for under $100. Standard quality hubs run about $20 - $30 less than the premiums. Other companies also make replacement manual hubs, I mention Warn because that's what I have. They are a piece of cake to install and much more reliable than the stock pieces with their plastic guts. You also will no longer have to drive the oposite direction to unlock them. If you did the ball joints yourself, you know how easy the hubs will be to change. If not, the instructions are in the box and very easy to understand. Only downside to changeing is that you might get dirty when you get out to lock them in.

One last thing, if your stock hubs have only 3 ***** holding them in, you will also need a conversion kit that consists of replacement bearing nuts.

 

[footmaster]

I think you auto-hub is shot. The reason the problem went away for a while after the ball joint replacement is that the hubs had to be removed and re-installed during the ball joint work. When you tried to engage 4x4, the autolocker jammed up again. Overhaul kits are available but I don't know the prices; replacement automatic hubs are pricey. Unless you are dead set on auto-hubs, I would recomend converting to a set of manual hubs. You can get a set of top of the line Warn Premiums for under $100. Standard quality hubs run about $20 - $30 less than the premiums. Other companies also make replacement manual hubs, I mention Warn because that's what I have. They are a piece of cake to install and much more reliable than the stock pieces with their plastic guts. You also will no longer have to drive the oposite direction to unlock them. If you did the ball joints yourself, you know how easy the hubs will be to change. If not, the instructions are in the box and very easy to understand. Only downside to changeing is that you might get dirty when you get out to lock them in.
One last thing, if your stock hubs have only 3 ***** holding them in, you will also need a conversion kit that consists of replacement bearing nuts.

Where would i find the Warn manual locking hubs? and i have 5 screws holding them in....and if i replce the one side with manual locking hubs must i replace the other side as well? Thank you for the fast reply this site has proved itself worthy on more than 1 occasion. And could i just remove the hubs to get rid of the annoying sound? like most people i only use 4x4 when its muddy and im bored. I wouldnt mind geeting rid of 4x4 for awhile as long as that noise stops.

 

[snowman74]

You should replace both hubs at the same time with the same type of hub. If you go with manual lockers (which is by many standards better than auto lockers) you need to put manual lockers on both sides. If you don't use four wheel drive, you still need to replace your hubs...if in fact that is your problem (which I agree, it sounds like it is). Your 5 ***** pattern is perfectly fine. No adaptors necessary. Just buy a set of Warn premiums. I think you can get them from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. If not, LMC Truck has them, as well as any online or brick and morter four-wheel-drive/off-road specialty shop worth going to. Jeg's, JC Whitney, Summitt Racing, Napa, just about anyone has or can order them for you. Good luck.

 

[footmaster]

Thank you all very much......

 

[Cocobum]

If you isolate which side the clanking noise is coming from be prepared to get physical with that hub. I had the same problem on my right side hub when i first got my bronco, then i switched to manual and the problem was fixed. The left hub was a peice of cake, but that right hub took me 2 hours to get off (mine was apperantly broken and driven like this by the previous owner). I ended up having to chisel mine out.

 

[footmaster]

oh yea problem is gone...i got the Warn Premos thanks for the advise...new problem tho.....with them in locked position and 4 wheel enganged when i turn hard i hear a horrible grindin type of noise...any explanation?

 

[Roadkill]

Is it only with the hubs locked and 4x4 engaged or does it do it at all times when the hubs are locked. If it happens with hubs locked and in or out of 4x4, then possibly a u-joint in one of the front axles. You can try puting the front end on jackstands, lock in the hubs, and spin the wheels by hand with the wheels turned sharply. Listen for the noise.

If it only happens with 4x4, are you on dry pavement when you hear this noise? If so, you will hear some noises because there is no differential in the transfer case. As the front and rear wheels turn at different speeds while turning, something has to give to release the built up tension. It's not so noticeable off road because the tires have less traction and can slide a little to release the tension.

 

[footmaster]

yes it is only when 4x4 is enganaged and it was on dry roads. ill try it in the mud and let u know. its not a slight grinding it sounds bad.