power steering is hard to turn

[wilcom]

I have a problem with my after market power steering. I had it converted from std steering about 25 years ago with a unit from the junk yard and just now bought a new saganaw unit. But before i did i was having a problem with the power steering getting hard to turn (real hard, like almost as if the engine was off) when i take off from a stop it gets real hard to turn while i am winding up to about 4k rpm and shift to 2nd. same thing happens in that gear while winging up to shit to 3 rd gear and so on. While at normal cruse at 30, 45, or 55 mph is it ok, but you can feel it a bit stiff.

When i replaced the old pump with the saganaw the problem is still there.

someone told me that maybe the body frame mounts are bad, loose etc and this could cause the vehicle body to shift on the frame while going forward and winding out the RPM, thus causing the steering shaft to try and strech and then bind up. While they have never been replaced, they look to be ok..meaning not missing or torn.

while ideling or coasting i have no problem.

Any ideas?

 

[Bully Bob]

You're in the 80-96 forum.... but I assume you're talking 'bout your '70 EB.?

Does your upper & lower steering shafts have a rag-joint connecting the two..?

If you have solid mount u-joint(s) then you do need some play in the upper shaft at the steering wheel.

I had the same prob. Like always, I thought the snugger/tighter, the better. BUT., while climbing hills the steering would bind. I re-set with some play & alls well. >< <'>

I can move you to the EB forum....

 

[wilcom]

yes, please move me to the EB page.

That is interesting about the play in the shaft. i have the u joints. how do you adjust the shaft for play? do you take the steering wheel off and release it that way and then put the steering wheel back on?

 

[Bully Bob]

In my case, the u-joint at the box is a "Flaming River" unit & pretty much locked in place. Where the upper & lower shafts meet, they're splined, (shafts & u-joint) with a lock-bolt.

I was able to loosen the lock-bolt & also the "clamp" at the base of the column. This allowed me to slide the upper shaft up just slightly. This increased the gap at the steering wheel bell. (to approx. 1/8")

I assume you can't go much or you'll lose the turn sig.cancel, etc.

You can't feel the "play" but the gap allows the shaft to move slightly when the rig flexes.

I don't know what you have....., hopefully this will give you a start point.

 

[wilcom]

i will play with it and let you know what happens...