Popping noise.

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AdamDude04

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Getting a weird popping noise when going around corners or accelerating from a stop. It's not a motor popping but more so a body/drive train popping..

my shocks are ending their life soon as they have rust all over, and some of em are even starting to rust through the outter top shell..

I have never messed with any suspension issues before, and I think this may be one of em. Anyone have a simular issue for me to start looking?

 

Seabronc

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If you have manual hubs, it is probably a partially engaged hub. I'm not sure if auto hubs will do the same thing but possibly. If it is the hubs, it is most likely because they need to be disassembled cleaned and lightly lubricated. Don't pack them with grease like you would a bearing.

Good luck,

:)>-

 
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AdamDude04

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Hmmm well I'll open em up an check em out. we installed the hubs last summer (had my buddy do it) and they were done correctly per him (he's done a lot of this stuff),

I do remember them being a PITA to remove the auto hubs with one ring clip :wacko:

 

Seabronc

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Hmmm well I'll open em up an check em out. we installed the hubs last summer (had my buddy do it) and they were done correctly per him (he's done a lot of this stuff),

I do remember them being a PITA to remove the auto hubs with one ring clip :wacko:
Another thing that comes to mind, is a bad universal joint in the front end.

:)>-

 
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AdamDude04

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Well the popping noise is random. Some days it does it, other days it doesn't. Some times it's a lot, sometimes very little.

 

miesk5

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yo,

re; "...or accelerating from a stop..."

Have someone get in your Bronco, stand-by with a short enuf section of garden hose to use as a stethoscope and have em start it; have em hold da brake down tight and put it in DRIVE and tap the accel pedal as you try to generalize the sound with da hose

if no-sound.. have person do same and accelerate without brake pedal depressed for a short distance; keep on trying to get it to pop while you find the location;

if you can't find it or it won't pop, then take it to a reliable shop

I tracked down a bad rad arm bushing using above..had to confirm pop after figuring it was in rad arm area with a piece of PVC pipe; taped it to rad arm bush area and walked aside Bronco as better-hald put it in Drive and started down driveway.

More guessing;

Noises, Frame, Snap, Crackle & Pop, transmission crossmember in Ford Trucks mid 80s to 90s

Source: by Paul A at http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/ford/ford_trucks.shtml

============

Frame Noise TSB 97-03-10 for 80-96 BRONCO, F-150, F-250 LD 1980-97 F-250 HD, F-350 1988-97 F SUPER DUTY, F-47

by Ford via by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/467397

Publication Date: FEBRUARY 3, 1997

LIGHT TRUCK:

1980-96 BRONCO, F-150, F-250 LD

1980-97 F-250 HD, F-350

1988-97 F SUPER DUTY, F-47

This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to include vehicles built through the 1997 model year and to update the Transmission Crossmember Service Procedure.

ISSUE:

A "popping/creaking" sound may come from the area of the front frame or suspension brackets. This may occur because of a slip/stick motion at a loose rivet or bolt in a frame crossmember or a suspension bracket (radius arm, spring tower, spring shackle, etc.).

ACTION:

Use the following Diagnostic Procedure to determine the location of the noise. Replace the suspected fastener(s) by referring to the following Repair Procedure for details.

SOURCES OF VARIOUS FRONT UNDERBODY NOISES

Various front underbody noises may originate from several different sources and are often difficult to locate and diagnose. Common noise locations include:

> #1 (engine) crossmember rivets - primarily the rivet or "huck fastener" at the lower left front, behind the steering gear

> loose or improperly seated spring shock tower rivets/bolts

> loose or misaligned transmission crossmembers

> loose or improperly seated front leaf spring bracket rivets

> loose radius arm brackets

> loose axle pivot brackets

Other underbody areas that produce similar noises include:

> transfer case skid plate

> leaf spring bushings

> steering intermediate shafts

> shock bolts

> bumper brackets

> brakes

Other Service Bulletins have been published to address the proper repair of these concerns.

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE

1. INTERVIEW THE CUSTOMER

a. Understand the customer's description of the noise and of the conditions under which it is heard.

b. Road test the vehicle with the customer to fully understand where, how, and when the noise occurs.

2. DUPLICATE THE NOISE CONCERN

a. Drive the vehicle around for at least 15 minutes to warm-up and exercise the frame joints so that any frame noise is more likely to be repeatable in the garage or on the road.

b. Identify the conditions in which the noise is repeatable. Does the noise occur:

> While parked and turning the wheels lock-to-lock?

> Only when driving?

> While going straight over bumps?

> While on a lift with the suspension unloaded?

> Only when the brakes are applied?

c. Identify the general location of the noise. Can you "feel" the noise in the floorboard or the steering wheel? Refer to Figure 9 for likely locations for the noise.

NOTE:

USE CHASSIS EARS AND/OR A STETHOSCOPE TO DETERMINE THE LOUDEST POINT OF THE NOISE. IF THE NOISE IS REPRODUCIBLE WHEN STATIONARY, PUT THE VEHICLE ON A DRIVE-ON LIFT AND "FEEL" FOR ANY MOVEMENT OR VIBRATION AT THE JOINTS.

tsb970310fig9.jpg

Click "Next" beside the image above to continue.

===

a clunk or grunt from the driveline during acceleration or stopping may be caused by engine torque preventing the slip yoke from sliding smoothly on the transmission output shaft splines (96-23-20, Nov. '96)

----------------

Clunk on Take-Off Bulletin Info, Borg Warner 1356 (GEARS Mag Sep01) Figures are missing

Source: by Mike W via web.archive.org

Taming Some Tough Transfer Case Problems

by Mike Weinberg,

President of Rockland Standard Gear Inc.

If you work on 4-wheel drive trucks, then you've seen the Borg Warner 1356 and the New Process 241 transfer cases. These are two very common units that have some difficult problems to solve. In the following pages, I will discuss some of these problems and their associated fixes. For those of you planning to attend this year's Expo in Rhode Island, you'll get even more fixes for some standard transmission problems during my Stick Tricks seminar.

Let's start with the Borg Warner 1356 and some common planet problems. Late design planets have a bronze ****** washer between the back of the input gear (sun gear) and the back of the planetary carrier case (figure 1). These washers wear out due to ****** loads creating excessive endplay in the carrier. The carrier cannot be disassembled and must be replaced as an assembly. The clearance between the input gear ( sun gear) and the back of the planet carrier should not exceed 60/1000 of an inch. Early design planets were produced without the ****** washer, but still have wear problems causing excessive endplay and disengagement of the transfer case. Clearance should not exceed 60/1000 of an inch.

You can measure the input clearance as shown in figure 2 with a dial indicator. Zero the indicator with the input resting in the planet case. Pull up on the input gently and read the indicated amount of travel. The same measurement can be made with a feeler gauge. Place the gauge between the bottom of the input and the planetary case to measure the clearance (figure 3). Either method of measurement will work with early or late design planets.

Another common problem with the 1356 is case wear. It is not unusual for the oil pump-retaining bracket to damage the case. Figure 4 shows that this particular case has a notch at least half way through the aluminum boss.

There are two ways to fix this problem without replacing the case: one method is to bend the bracket to relocate it to a fresh spot on the case. The second is to rivet or weld a small foot on the end of the bracket that is the same width as the slot in the case, which will prevent further wear. If the bracket is allowed to eat through the case, the oil pump will spin on the shaft; tearing out the feed line and the unit will self-destruct due to lack of pressurized ****.

Manually shifted units usually exhibit wear on the selector shaft in two areas (figure 5). Shaft wear in any form will make the unit disengage or have very sloppy shifting. The star shaped end of the shaft where it mates with the shift cam is also prone to wear. Borg Warner released an updated shift cam with an Allen ***** to tighten up the fit and retain the manual lever. Look at the section of the manual lever that rides in the case, which is also subject to wear from dirt and two dissimilar metals in close contact.

read more here

http://web.archive.org/web/20030131161714/http://www.atra.com/gears/sep01/taming.html

====

Vibration or Noise When Driving In 4X2 Mode W/ Hubs Locked (Replace the front Driveshaft) TSB 97-13-22 for 87-96 Bronco & 87-97 F Series

Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/971322.pdf

====

 
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AdamDude04

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Oops forgot this thread was created :-"

I'll be checking things out again tomorrow. I removed the front drive shaft and still have the popping noise..

 

miesk5

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at what speed is this happening?

HAVE YOU TRIED this in a driveway or parking lot?

Have someone get in your Bronco, stand-by with a short enuf section of garden hose to use as a stethoscope and have em start it; have em hold da brake down tight and put it in DRIVE and tap the accel pedal as you try to generalize the sound with da hose

Next up is what Ford does;

Section 00-04: Noise, Vibration and Harshness 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, Bronco and F-Super Duty Workshop ManualDIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

Inspection and Verification

Consideration of noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) is becoming more and more important because vehicles are becoming more sensitive to these factors. This section is designed to give a working knowledge of the process of diagnosing noise and vibration. It is divided into several sections based on the description of the condition.

The Road Test procedure in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section will tell how to sort the conditions into categories and how to distinguish a vibration from a shake. It will give a few hints on quick checks to make sure that a cause is either pinpointed or eliminated.

How to Use this Diagnostic Procedure Section

Begin with the customer interview. Use the Glossary of Terms in this section to find the descriptive name of conditions not encountered before. After naming it, proceed to identifying the condition and locate the proper diagnosis. Remember, just by beginning at that point, most other systems in the vehicle have been eliminated. When the proper method of diagnosis is identified, the job is partly done. Follow the steps within the diagnostic procedure. Quick checks are described within the step, while more involved tests and adjustments are found in the Adjustments and Service Procedures portions of this section. Always follow each step exactly, and make notes along the way to recall important findings later.

Customer Interview

It is important to interview the customer. Customer feedback can supply information that could be helpful in diagnosing the concern. Ask questions like:

When is the concern present (at idle or while driving)?

Where does the concern appear to be coming from?

How long has the concern been there? Has it steadily become worse?

When did the concern start?

Identifying the Condition

Noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) usually occur in the following four areas:

tires

engine accessories

suspension

driveline

It is important, therefore, that an NVH problem be isolated to its specific area as soon as possible. The easiest and quickest way to do this is to perform a road test. If necessary, refer to the Road Test procedure in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section.

Noise Diagnostic Procedure

Non-Axle Noise

There are some noise conditions that can sound just like axle noise and have to be considered while performing road test diagnosis. The five most common sources of noise are the transmission, exhaust system, tires, roof racks and trim mouldings.

Make sure none of these non-axle noise conditions are the cause of the noise concern before proceeding with an axle teardown and diagnosis.

Noise Conditions

If noise is produced as part of a vibration condition, correcting the vibration will eliminate the noise. If the noise is related to a specific component or system, refer to the appropriate service manual section for further diagnosis.

Vibration Conditions

Vibration, technically, is a high-frequency trembling, shaking or grounding condition, felt or heard, that is constant or variable in level and occurs during a portion of the total operating speed range. The types of vibrations that can be felt in the vehicle can be divided into three groups:

vibrations of various unbalanced rotating parts of the vehicle

body and frame vibrations excited by powertrain, wind or road inputs

tip-in moans or resonance vibrations from stressed engine or exhaust system mounts or driveline flexing modes

For engine or accessory vibration, all speeds, refer to Pinpoint Test D in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section.

My link

For high-speed shake/vibration, 80 km/h (50 mph) and up:

Refer to Pinpoint Test A in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section and to Section 04-04 for tire conditions contributing to shake/vibration.

Refer to hub and rotor runout checks in Section 06-00.

For tip-in moan, refer to Symptom Charts in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section. If the symptom still exists, refer to Pinpoint Test B in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section or the engine assembly in Section 03-01A, Section 03-01B, Section 03-01C or Section 03-01D.

For brake shudder, refer to Section 06-00.

Vehicle vibrations can also be subdivided into those that occur at low speeds and those that are most noticeable at higher speeds. Since the dividing line between low and higher speed vibrations is not clear, there will be vibrations that overlap the two ranges.

Typical Low-Speed Vibrations (Less Than 72 km/h [45 mph])

exhaust vibration

engine harshness

driveline vibration due to improper driveline angles

power steering pump disturbances

air conditioner compressor or drive belt (8620) vibrations

take-off shudder (driveline problems)

brake roughness or harshness

driveline roughness

driveline slip-yoke or rear axle universal joint ****** (4851), automatic or manual transmission clutch slippage

Typical High-Speed Vibrations (Above 72 km/h [45 mph])

rear axle universal joint ****** runout or imbalance

driveshaft (4602) imbalance

excessive tire-wheel and drum assembly imbalance

tire roughness due to high non-uniformity (force variation) or out-of-balance condition

rear axle pinion gear pitch line runout

excessive tire and wheel runout

worn suspension components

front end accessory vibrations

exhaust vibration (greatly reduced in exhaust systems de-coupled by a flexible coupling and mounted with blade and block hangers)

Harshness Conditions

Harshness is the term commonly used to describe the ride quality concern of the vehicle. A hard ride or harshness is usually caused by the tires or suspension system, namely:

overinflated, wrong size or wrong type tire installed on the vehicle

suspension not sufficiently lubricated

worn suspension components

suspension components installed with preload on pivot point, bearings and bushings

vehicles equipped with tires not specified by the manufacturer (different brand tires often give different ride qualities to the vehicle)

bent or bound-up shock absorbers

heavy-duty components installed on vehicle

Other harshness conditions that affect ride quality may be summarized as follows:

Vehicle bounce — the vertical motion of a vehicle on its suspension system, front and rear in phase, a low frequency "float" or an intermediate frequency "kick."

Vehicle pitch — the out-of-phase vertical motion of the front and rear of the vehicle. A flat ride would be considered the opposite of a pitch ride.

Vehicle roll — the side-to-side rotation of the vehicle body about the front and rear axles.

Leakage Conditions/Low **** Level

Most rear axle lubricant leakage conditions may be corrected without a teardown. However, it is important to clean up the leaking area enough to identify the exact source.

NOTE: If vent cannot be cleared, it must be replaced.

A plugged axle vent will cause excessive seal lip wear due to internal pressure buildup. When a leak occurs, check the vent which is located near the top of the differential housing. Make sure the vent hose is not kinked. Remove the vent hose from the vent ****** and make sure the hose is clear of dirt or other foreign materials. While hose is removed, pass a length of mechanics' wire or small diameter Allen wrench in and out of the vent ****** to clean it of any dirt or foreign materials. Install vent hose.

Make sure axle lubricant is to specified level. Refer to appropriate section in Group 05.

Road Test

NVH diagnosis should always start with the road test.

Noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) usually occurs in four areas: tires, engine accessories, suspension and powertrain. It is important, therefore, that an NVH concern be isolated into its specific area as soon as possible. The easiest and quickest way to do this is to perform a road test.

NVH Diagnostic Locator

A gear-driven unit will produce a certain amount of noise. Some noise is acceptable and may be audible at certain speeds or under various driving conditions. The slight noise is in no way detrimental and must be considered normal.

Make notes throughout diagnostic routine. It will help cover all bases when starting to add up clues. Use a road test form that includes space for comments. Write down even the smallest bit of information, as it may turn out to be most important.

Road test the vehicle, and define the condition by reproducing it several times during the road test.

Perform the road test quick checks as soon as the condition is reproduced. This will identify the appropriate diagnostic procedure. Run through the quick checks more than once to make sure they are getting a usable result. Remember, the road test quick checks may not tell where the concern is, but they will tell where it is not.

Make a visual inspection as part of the preliminary diagnostic routine, writing down anything that does not look right. Note tire pressures, leaking fluids, loose nuts and/or bolts, or bright spots where components may be rubbing against each other. Check cargo area for unusual loads.

Some hints on performing a road test for the diagnosis of NVH complaints follow.

Neutral Engine Run-Up Test (NERU)

A very useful first step in the road test is a neutral engine run-up (NERU) test. It identifies engine related vibrations and helps in sorting out vibrations that are found in the road test.

This test takes only a minute or two and represents time well spent in testing.

If the vehicle is equipped with a tachometer, it can be used. Otherwise, a tach should be connected. A tach is absolutely necessary in both the NERU test and the road test.

Locate the vehicle away from other vehicles and walls which may reflect sound differently than a road reflects sound.

Put the vehicle in N (neutral) or P (park) and do not set the parking brake or press on the service brake since these are not engaged in a road test. Pressing on the service brake puts forces into the brake and clutch pedal support and into the dash panel that are not present in driving. A similar situation arises with the parking brake.

Run the engine up from idle to approximately 4000 rpm and note any moans, vibrations, noises, etc., and the rpm at which they occur. Sometimes it is possible to "tune in" on these by running up and down in rpm to determine a precise rpm at which they occur; in other cases they will fall over a broad range of rpm. This establishes a baseline against which driving vibrations can be measured.

If you suspect that the exhaust system is vibrating, hang a ring of keys or something similar from the tailpipe and listen for the rattling of the keys as the engine is run up and down. Sometimes it is very clear with just this simple test that the exhaust system is responsible.

Some exhaust systems contain flexible couplings and may not require evaluation unless the exhaust system is damaged.

If you suspect the air conditioning system or drive belt, turn on the air conditioning system before performing the NERU test. If a noise occurs at a specific rpm, turn the air conditioning system off and on to see if the noise is connected to the air conditioning compressor or A/C system lines.

Results of the NERU test should be compared with the results of the road test to sort out vibrations and noises caused by the engine from those caused by the transmission, driveshaft or axle. If, during the road test, a vibration or noise occurs at a particular speed, try operating in another gear at the same speed. This changes the engine rpm and helps to sort out engine induced vibrations and noises. If it occurs at a particular rpm, use different gears to test at the same rpm at different road speeds. Turn the air conditioning system off and on at road speeds where noise occurs to isolate air conditioning system problems.

Drive Engine Run-Up Test (DERU)

CAUTION: Do not conduct this test for over 30 seconds, or without periodic driving or shifting to neutral to circulate transmission lubricant, otherwise, the transmission will overheat causing severe damage to the automatic transmission.

Set both the parking brake and service brake and take care to perform the test with enough space ahead of the vehicle to eliminate the possibility of an accident should the vehicle unintentionally lurch forward.

Put the transmission in D (drive) and run the engine up and down between idle and approximately 2000 rpm. Note the nature of any vibrations and noises and when these concerns occur in relation to engine rpm. This test is particularly good for examination of the exhaust system, and hanging keys on the tailpipe can serve as a "telltale" indicator.

The following worksheet is invaluable for recording customer comments as well as inspection and road test data.

Road Test Form

go to site

Road Test Quick Checks

24-80 km/h (15-50 mph): With light acceleration, a moaning noise is heard, and possibly a vibration is felt in the floorpan. It is usually worse at a particular engine speed and at a particular throttle setting during acceleration at that speed. It may also produce a moaning sound, depending on what component is causing it.

Refer to Pinpoint Test B.

Slow acceleration and deceleration: A shake is sometimes noticed in the steering wheel (3600)/steering column tube, seats, floorpan, trim panels or front end sheet metal. It is a low frequency vibration (around 9-15 cycles per second). It may or may not be increased by applying brakes lightly.

Refer to Pinpoint Test A.

At road speed: A vibration is felt in the floorpan or seats with no visible shake, but with an accompanying sound or rumble, buzz, hum, drone or booming noise. Coast with transmission control selector lever in NEUTRAL and engine idling. If vibration is still evident, it may be related to wheels, tires, front disc brake rotors (1125), rear brake drums (1126) wheel hubs (1104), wheel bearings (4000), driveshaft balance, rear axle universal joint ****** runout or transmission balance.

Refer to Pinpoint Test A.

0-High Speed: A vibration is felt whenever the engine reaches a particular rpm. It will disappear in NEUTRAL coast. The vibration can be duplicated by operating the engine at the problem rpm while the vehicle is parked. It can be caused by any component, from the accessory drive belt to the torque converter which turns at engine speed when the vehicle is stopped.

Refer to Pinpoint Test D.

Road Conditions

The type of road and its surface condition are important factors in the road test. A smooth asphalt road that allows driving over a range of speeds is best. The brushed concrete road surface found on many expressways and the coarse aggregate sometimes found in concrete can mask many vehicle noises and make NVH diagnosis difficult.

If the customer complains of a noise or vibration on a particular road and only on a particular road, the source of the concern may be the condition of the road surface and not the vehicle. If possible, try to test on the same type of surface. In this case, a smooth asphalt road may not be the best.

Vehicle Preparation

Check and verify if vehicle is equipped with original equipment (OE), type, size and brand wheels and tires. If non-original equipment (OE) wheels and or tires are installed, it may be necessary to substitute original equipment (OE) level tire/wheel assemblies to eliminate this factor before proceeding with the NVH diagnosis. Check and verify that ride height of vehicle has not been modified.

Check and set tire pressure.

Unlock the front hubs and back up approximately 20 feet to make sure of hub disengagement if the vehicle is a 4x4.

Remove any externally mounted accessories such as luggage racks, or magnetic base or the antenna which may cause wind noise that interferes with NVH diagnosis.

Use a tachometer.

Note the fuel level. Some vehicles change in their response to various excitations when the fuel level changes. If the customer mentions that the concern does not occur all the time, this might be a factor.

Try to duplicate the conditions with the customer present, particularly the speed and throttle operation. It is not uncommon to find concerns which the customer didn't notice so it is important to identify the specific concern causing the complaint.

Find the speed where the concern is most severe.

Turn the air conditioning system off and on to isolate air conditioning system impact on the noise. Accelerate gently through this speed to a few mph above it and then coast back down a few mph below it and note if the concern changes character when driving through or coasting down.

Repeat this procedure if necessary to get a feeling for the behavior. Then drive about five mph above the speed, put the transmission in neutral and coast down. Note any change in behavior.

Try "floating" the driveline by backing off slightly on the throttle at the problem speed. The idea is to unload the axle gears and the universal joints as much as possible. This test is difficult to master and sometimes it helps to test on a slight downgrade so that gravity is counteracting the aerodynamic drag.

If the concern does not change in all these modes of operation, the cause may well be driveline imbalance since the imbalance is not changed by the throttle position.

If there is a distinct change in the character or intensity between the drive and coast modes of operation, the concern is not likely imbalance but is most likely due to the axle or the universal joints since they are sensitive to the load on the driveline. (The axle pinion gear teeth are machined on two separate machines. One machine does the drive side of the teeth, another does the coast side. Hence there can be a great difference in performance between driving and coasting in gear.) If the noise and/or vibration goes away when the driveline is "floated" or when coasting through the speed range in neutral, the diagnosis is strengthened. Driveline imbalance does not go away in a neutral coast, but axle and joint concerns may.

To become familiar with the symptoms of imbalance and to determine if driveline imbalance exists on the vehicle, intentionally imbalance the driveline. This can be done by installing three hose clamps with ***** heads aligned on the rear of the driveshaft. Test drive the vehicle again. If the same vibration is still present but now intensified, the concern is driveline imbalance. If a new vibration is now present as a result of the intentional imbalance, the original condition would not be caused by driveline imbalance.

Hoist Test

After a road test, but only after a road test, it is sometimes useful to do a similar test on a hoist. Use an axle hoist, not a frame hoist. An axle hoist will not change the driveline angles. If only a frame hoist is available, axle stands should be used.

Elevate the rear wheels slightly. Check to make sure that both are turning, and run the engine up with the vehicle in gear.

Explore the speed range of interest using the drive/cruise/coast/float tests as described under Vehicle Preparation.

A coast down in neutral should also be conducted. If the vehicle is free of vibration when operating at a steady indicated speed and behaves very differently in drive and coast, an axle concern is likely.

A test on the hoist may produce different vibrations and noises than a road test because of the effect of the hoist on the rear axle. It is not unusual to find vibrations on the hoist that were not found in the road test and in most instances they may be ignored. Similarly, some problems may be apparent only on smooth asphalt roads. If the condition that was found on the road can be duplicated on the hoist, a great deal of time can be saved by doing experiments on the hoist.

 
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AdamDude04

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Well I have done some tests as above, and I think I have it pinned down to a suspension/body issue.

The popping noise is a cross between a pop/clunk. It seems to only accure durring acceleration. As the body of the truck shifts due to the accelerating force, that's when something 'moves' thus creating the noise.

perhaps my shocks? They don't bounce like they are blown, but looking at em, they are rusted pretty bad. They have rust frosting and some have a few small holes in the outter shell (holes do not go into the cylinder)

 

michibronc

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My '96 did this when I bought it a few years ago. It ended up being the slip yoke in my rear driveshaft. If it is, it can be lubed easily. Before you try taking the whole shaft off to **** it, remove the clips from the rubber boot, slide it out of the way, press your grease gun to the slip yoke and see how much **** you can get in there. Re attach both sides of the boot with fresh zip ties. Be sure to position the zip tie clip ends so as not to unbalance the shaft if you're using big ones.

If that doesn't work, you'll have to drop the front of the shaft, disassemble, pack w grease and reassemble. That's not too hard either but you'll be removing some rusty fasteners. Use lots of pb blaster or the like and let it sit.

 

miesk5

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yo Adam,

With all due respect to you, hHow about answering one question that I have asked quite a few times in your various posts about this?

Did you try the garden hose (STETHOSCOPE) test?

You wrote; "...It seems to only accure durring acceleration..." So, does it pop at a low enuf speed to try that test?

Years ago, dad and I used garden hose, insulated w/the cheap closed cell pipe insulation (to reduce engine and traffic noise infiltration into the hose) and taped it to various spots on the old F 100;

such as the driver side engine mount....

we tied one open end to the mount... then snaked the hose up thru wheel weel over fender and thru vent window into cab, using duct tape to secure the hose along the path... then we accelerated and heard the noise at the mount.

Prior to this we had moved the hose all around, from upper A arm to check spring/shock area... radiator support... and so on.

 

Foul Al

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My '96 did this when I bought it a few years ago. It ended up being the slip yoke in my rear driveshaft. If it is, it can be lubed easily. Before you try taking the whole shaft off to **** it, remove the clips from the rubber boot, slide it out of the way, press your grease gun to the slip yoke and see how much **** you can get in there. Re attach both sides of the boot with fresh zip ties. Be sure to position the zip tie clip ends so as not to unbalance the shaft if you're using big ones.

If that doesn't work, you'll have to drop the front of the shaft, disassemble, pack w grease and reassemble. That's not too hard either but you'll be removing some rusty fasteners. Use lots of pb blaster or the like and let it sit.
look at the stabilizer shock mount. i have a similar sound on my 79 and thats what i found it to be. just a thought. you might be able to just wiggle it without driving it. good luck!

 
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AdamDude04

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yo Adam,

With all due respect to you, hHow about answering one question that I have asked quite a few times in your various posts about this?

Did you try the garden hose (STETHOSCOPE) test?

You wrote; "...It seems to only accure durring acceleration..." So, does it pop at a low enuf speed to try that test?

Years ago, dad and I used garden hose, insulated w/the cheap closed cell pipe insulation (to reduce engine and traffic noise infiltration into the hose) and taped it to various spots on the old F 100;

such as the driver side engine mount....

we tied one open end to the mount... then snaked the hose up thru wheel weel over fender and thru vent window into cab, using duct tape to secure the hose along the path... then we accelerated and heard the noise at the mount.

Prior to this we had moved the hose all around, from upper A arm to check spring/shock area... radiator support... and so on.
Indeed. I used a my "magic pipe" :p /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> which is simply a PVC pipe about 3' long. I also have a hose simular to a garden hose that's roughly 2.5' long that I use if I need to squeeze it in somewhere. I did this while under the truck and someone putting it in drive/reverse and moving a few feet but no noise.

It does not accure durring slow enough speeds to make me feel comfortable enough to be under the truck though or jog along side. This is at parking lot speeds..I have tried wigggling things around with no answer from that. Did have someone put the truck in D and R but no answer there, either.

 

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