PMGR Starter Upgrade

[B-Co Kid]

Hey guys,

I am looking to get a new starter and have read a couple of forums posts about PMGR starter upgrade.  I have an 87 B-Co, 351w, C6 trans, 3g alternator.  does any one have any first hand experience with this mod? which PMGR starter would be correct for my rig?  and is it worth doing the upgrade?? 

The reason i am considering an upgrade is bcuz of my starters performance.  my rigs starts up strong initially, but after driving  a while when everything is warmed, and i cut the engine and then restart, there is a moment of hesitation when starting.  all of my wiring has been replaced (positive wires, ground wires, etc), alternator is 3g, coil is new, and i do have headers so im assuming the restart hesitation is due to heat soak. 

any info would be appreciated!!

 

[miesk5]

yo B,

Installation & System Upgrade pics, PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) from a 96 F series in an 86 Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) Installation & System Upgrade pics, PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) in an 86
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) 

 

[B-Co Kid]

Thanks miesk!! I'm definitely upgrading the starter.

 

[fordblood]

Does this work the same with an 1986 351w? I need a better starter after my rebuild. Once it gets warm I can't restart it.

 

[fordblood]

It does lol

 

[miesk5]

Yo,

Batty cable fabrication by Ryan M (Fireguy50)

http://web.archive.org/web/20130912155600/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=59

"...Why are the cables and battery so important? The starter circuit pulls a lot of amperage, up to 500 amps depending on the starter, the engine load, and battery condition. This kind of amperage stresses all of the components in the starter circuit, including the battery, battery terminals, the battery disconnect switch, the cables including the ground path, and any remote solenoids. Problems with these components are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. The result will be low voltage to the starter during cranking, resulting in heavier amperage draw and increased internal heat in the starter. Over time, this will cause starter failure. Voltage measured at the starter during cranking should always be above 9.5VDC..."

Source: by powermastermotorsports

Starter Installation Checklist, GENERAL

Source: by Haldex Brake Systems via ryderfleetproducts.com

http://web.archive.org/web/20100306032647/http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cgi-bin/ryderfp/technicalbulletins/StarterInstall.jsp

 

[nelbur]

Hey guys,

I am looking to get a new starter and have read a couple of forums posts about PMGR starter upgrade.  I have an 87 B-Co, 351w, C6 trans, 3g alternator.  does any one have any first hand experience with this mod? which PMGR starter would be correct for my rig?  and is it worth doing the upgrade?? 

The reason i am considering an upgrade is bcuz of my starters performance.  my rigs starts up strong initially, but after driving  a while when everything is warmed, and i cut the engine and then restart, there is a moment of hesitation when starting.  all of my wiring has been replaced (positive wires, ground wires, etc), alternator is 3g, coil is new, and i do have headers so im assuming the restart hesitation is due to heat soak. 

any info would be appreciated!!

The symptom of a worn out starter on old ford trucks is a slow crank of a warm engine.   I replaced mine yesterday with a rebuilt standard starter.   What a difference.   I had forgotten how fast a new starter could crank the engine.   Mine is a 302, but if yours is similar, it is a 5 minute job.   Mine cost $61 at Autozone, or it would have if I didn't have a lifetime warranty on the old one I bought in 2004.

 

[fordblood]

Mine was slow to crank on warm engine due to new engine with higher compression. The starter I had on it before the rebuild was about a year old and had maybe 1500 miles on it but I doubt even that much. Just wasn't strong enough to turn over the new engine.

 

[nelbur]

Mine was slow to crank on warm engine due to new engine with higher compression. The starter I had on it before the rebuild was about a year old and had maybe 1500 miles on it but I doubt even that much. Just wasn't strong enough to turn over the new engine.

I doubt a warm engine should be harder to turn over than a cold engine.   I think your starter is suspect.   I have been driving old ford trucks since the '70s, and every starter has given warning that it was failing by becoming slow to crank when it was heat soaked.

 

[fordblood]

The other problem with mine is the change in pistons. Hyperutetic piston clearness are tighter. Also higher than stock compression puts more stress on the starter. Also, header versus stock exhaust manifolds bring heat closer to the starter. With the pmgr starter, I have no issues with cranking. Like I said, the other starter I had on it was a year old and only had 1500 Mikes on it and had problems turning the warm engine over.