Parasitic draw

[Croneybones]

As a process of elimination, I had my battery tested at Autozone, and they said the battery was fine, but I had a pretty good parasitic draw on the battery. There's a short somewhere, drawing over an amp. Are there any common spots for this? Where should I start looking?

Also note that this is intermittent. The draw was there sometimes, but not others. This could possibly cause the truck to want to stall at idle, so I often have to 2 foot it at red lights and such.

1993 4x4. Stock 302

 

[miesk5]

yo CB!

here is somethAng to Consider;

Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT); Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 TSB 95-15-11 in 93-95 Source: by Ford via Steve83

This condition was found recently on a few Broncos by other owners.. as well by ASA

Intermittent No-Spark: Spark w/SPOUT Connector Un-Plugged, but Falter and/or No-Spark w/SPOUT Connected (similar to Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark); "It seems that the insulation around many PIP sensors breaks down prematurely - a condition that leads to shorting of the wires leading to the TFI ignition module. I always replace a PIP sensor along with a defective ignition module, if it has "soft" insulation..."; etc. (for a Ranger, but similar); Note, site won't allow you to return to this page, so open URL in a new Window; SEE Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 TSB 95-15-11 for 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT) by Ford via Steve83 at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/470468

Source: by Brian M at asashop.org

---------

But before you pull that PCM conn off and have other problems (opens in conn, etc.) try this to narrow it dn

Troubleshooting with a Test Light (low resistance); "...low resistance test light can sometimes be used in place of a blown fuse. The light will illuminate while a short circuit to ground exists. DO NOT use a medium or high resistance test light in place of a blown fuse. These types of test lights illuminate with very small amounts of current and can be misleading..." read more Source: by ocw.weber.edu

&

Troubleshooting with a Test Light (low resistance)by Chris B

or

If you have or can find one cheap enuf;

I pull one fuse @ a time and watch to see what my digital amp meter shows

as described here

Parasitic Current Drain Testing Methods Source: by bbbind.com

 

[Croneybones]

This looks very promising. With the intermittent problems, it really seems like something is shorting out. Once the PA weather breaks, I'll crawl under the hood and poke around. I'll definitely post my results.

 

[50joe]

One easy way to pinpoint a draw is to disconnect a battery cable. run a test light from the cable to the post. Then, one by one, start yanking out fuses. When the light goes out, thats the circuit to check. (and dont forget to disconnect the door jamb switch, or pull that fuse first.)

 

[BroncoJoe19]

How to find a parasitic drain

Disconnect the positive battery cable and put a test light between it and the positive post. IF you have a drain, the light will light.

Now start pulling fuses until the light goes out. TAKE A PICTURE OF YOUR FUSE BOX FIRST! you will want to put the fuses back in their correct positions (different colors are different amperages)

Then start putting fuses back in. If the light comes on, keep that fuse out and continue installing the rest of the fuses.

AT this point you may have one or more fuses out of the box, you will need a wiring diagram to see what components are on those fuses. Then you can start disconencting the components to take them out of the circuit, and then other connectors in the circuit, until you can narrow down where the short is. Be aware that there are some circuits that will be hot all the time, and create a little draw, such as the clock radio, and keep alive memory for the PCM, perhaps others.

Note: Using this method justaguy found a stuck relay. He said, "So I used your advice and used the test light. I went though all of the fuses and the relays again. I climbed up and took the wires off of the glow plug relay and then the air heater relay, thats when the light dimmed. I replaced the relay... so far so good!"

When you disconnect the battery you may break a parasitic connection.How I do it is connect one lead of the test light or meter to the cable being removed and the other end of the test light or meter to the center of the post of the battery.Then I slide the cable off the post and I never interrupt the connection.You will find far more draws this way when you don't break the circuit.

Make your own short tester/locator

Tech Make your own short tester/locator