Oil pump

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

jlb

New member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Detroit Mich
Hello everyone I just changed the oil pump on my 1990 fullsize bronco 5.8 what a job by the way I recommend pulling the motor if anyone tackles this anyway got it all done have about 50 psi but my engine light is on any suggestions what the problem could be its the engine light not the check engine.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
9,078
Reaction score
1,037
Location
Floating in the Pacific
yo J,

Never saw that engine Light;

if it is Red, then; It's oil pressure switch. (5psi trigger). Should click off as soon as pressure us built over 5psi. Works hand in hand with the "dummy" oil gauge on your dash. by Chexmix

red engine light comes on if oil pressure is too low or sender (switch) or gauge/ckt is faulty; here is a pic by BOOBA of his 89 F 150 inst panel showing red engine & CEL; should be = to your Bronco;

http://broncozone.com/topic/23015-red-engine-light-vs-yellow-check-engine-light/

Here is wiring diagram for the red Engine ind

by equivalent

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/280828_1

connected to oil pressure gauge's sender

Oil Pressure Circuit Operation 87-96 F Series & Bronco; "...In recent years, Ford Motor Company has been doing something I view as a bit sneaky. They have taken the oil pressure gauge and turned it into a glorified warning light. It says it's an oil pressure gauge, it looks like an oil pressure gauge, but in reality it is not. starting in 1986 a change was made on some models that altered the function of the oil pressure gauge as we knew it. The variable resistance sending unit was replaced with an open/closed switch and an in-line 20 ohm resistor was installed between the gauge and the switch. Anytime you have more than 4.5 psi of oil pressure, the switch closes, completing the circuit from the gauge (with the 20 ohm resistor in-line) to ground. This then results in a gauge that reads just above the middle. As you can see, there is no variation to the gauge needle in this circuit. It will either read no oil pressure or half-scale (normal oil pressure). On this style of gauge circuit, if the oil pressure gauge reads in the middle, it is telling you only one thing - you have more than 4.5 psi of oil pressure. How much more is anyone's guess at that point. When oil pressure drops below 4.5 psi, the gauge will return to 0 and alert the driver of a problem...Ford released a TSB (#88-5-14) for 1987-1988 F Series and Broncos that called for converting the variable resistive style oil pressure gauge circuit to the switch style circuit - if the customer complained of low or erratic oil pressure readings. The kit contains an oil pressure switch and an in-line 20 ohm resistor that is to be connected between the end of the existing sending unit signal wire and the new switch. The variable resistance oil pressure unit removed from the vehicle is then discarded. I want to point out some diagnostic problems that can arise from this circuit. First, if you are working on this switch style oil pressure circuit (with the in-line 20 ohm resistor) and install a variable resistive sending unit in place of the oil pressure switch, the result will be a gauge that reads lower than normal due to having two resistors in series, the fixed 20 ohm in-line resistor and the variable resistive sending unit. On the other hand, installing the open/closed switch on a vehicle that incorporates the conventional oil pressure gauge circuit will result in a pegged gauge needle after starting the engine. Sometimes you can tell that you need a switch instead of the variable resistive sending unit by the presence of the in-line resistor a few inches from the switch connector. This is not a good rule of thumb though, since many vehicles have the fixed resistor on the back of the cluster, and some of the digital dashes have that circuit built into the cluster. To determine what style circuit you have, simply ground the sending unit wire with the key on. If the gauge reads exactly half-scale, you can be fairly sure you need a switch-style sender. If you ground the sender wire and the gauge pegs, a variable resistor-style sender is needed..."

Source: by James M

Oil Pressure Mod to Actual PSI "...short R in PCB..." info & NAPA Sender, etc.

Source: by Steve http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/281470

Oil Pressure Mod to Actual PSI "...short R in PCB..." in F series trucks and Broncos

Source: by Mike & Debbie at http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/FordOilPressureGaugeFix.htm

 
OP
OP
jlb

jlb

New member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Detroit Mich
I replaced the the oil gage with a new one says im getting 50 psi checked the dipstick its reading full truck hasnt ran long enough to overheat confused on what else it might be.

 

harbinger

New member
Joined
Jun 20, 2014
Messages
49
Reaction score
0
I just did the same. Oil pump is no joke. PITA to get those bolts back in. And retapping those bolt holes after drilling out the old exhaust manifold bolts. unfortunately, the bearing were the problem so the whole oil pump change was an uneccessary fact-finding mission.  Good luck with yours, it sounds like you are saying that you added a different oil pressure gauge? and the factory one is reading zero? if that's the case, it could be as easy as not being plugged in. Your oil dipstick level won't have anything to do with oil pressure though (in this case).  

Did you install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to piggyback the OEM dummy light and gauge? Or are you saying your OEM gauge that you replaced is reading 50psi and the light is still on?  Or are you saying you replaced the oil pressure sending unit? Sorry, just trying to clarify so the others can help.

 
OP
OP
jlb

jlb

New member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Detroit Mich
I replaced the dummy gauge with a mechanical one and its reading 50 psi the light just recently came on sense replacing the pump I've let it run and checked the dipstick reads about a quart low.While letting it run no lifter noise or anything

 

Elmo

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2008
Messages
417
Reaction score
1
Location
Forsyth Georgia
then that is why you are seeing the red engine light on, because the ssystem isnt seeing any press. it will not hurt to run it this way EXCEPT you will not be aware if another issue arises that would illuminate the red engine light.

 

Seabronc

New member
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
7,315
Reaction score
35
Location
North of NYC
I'm out of town so no access to my pictures, but I got some brass fittings from Home Depot and made a fitting that allowed both to be connected.

:)>-

 
OP
OP
jlb

jlb

New member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Detroit Mich
No Elmo electrical gauge isn't conected the gauge I replaced it with shows I am getting 50psi before I changed the pump I was still using after market mechanical gauge and was losing pressure but light wouldnt stay on problem started occurring after I replaced the pump.

 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
22,647
Messages
136,846
Members
25,344
Latest member
guilhermeknob
Top