After using some engine degreaser and taking the truck out for a ride, I noticed that there really isn't any oil leaking from the rear main seal(which was my original thought). But I have found oil leaking from the opening of the dipstick location. I am planning on replacing the oil pan, which is in need of replacing anyway. This should fix this leak, but I still see oil leaking from the front main seal. Is it possible to replace this seal without pulling the engine?
Oil Leak
- Thread starter pj31704
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Check me here but I think you're refering to the timing chain cover seal, right behind the harmonic
balancer..?
If memory serves, the cover needs to be removed to R&R that seal. Pretty easy to remove & even
easier with the pan loose or off.
(good time to insp. the timing gears & chain.., they're pretty cheap to replace)
If you don't really need a new pan, you can seal the dipstick tube (many of them leak there) by
cleaning well with gas or laquer thinner, then spray good with carb cleaner, then dry well.
Put a good layer of the black RTV around the tube/pan connection & let dry.
Did this on mine several yrs. ago & it's still clean-n-dry.
balancer..?
If memory serves, the cover needs to be removed to R&R that seal. Pretty easy to remove & even
easier with the pan loose or off.
(good time to insp. the timing gears & chain.., they're pretty cheap to replace)
If you don't really need a new pan, you can seal the dipstick tube (many of them leak there) by
cleaning well with gas or laquer thinner, then spray good with carb cleaner, then dry well.
Put a good layer of the black RTV around the tube/pan connection & let dry.
Did this on mine several yrs. ago & it's still clean-n-dry.
Yes I believe you are definitely correct on the seal, I wasn't sure of the name. Well that's great news!
Just a quick question, what would I be looking for while inspecting timing gears and chains? And if they need replacing is it as simple as putting new chains on? Or do I need to have a timing light? Sorry if the question sounds weird, I have never done anything with that before.
Also for the pan I will probably replace it, I noticed there are several dents in the underside. Looks like some damage from past off-roading. Thanks for the help!
Just a quick question, what would I be looking for while inspecting timing gears and chains? And if they need replacing is it as simple as putting new chains on? Or do I need to have a timing light? Sorry if the question sounds weird, I have never done anything with that before.
Also for the pan I will probably replace it, I noticed there are several dents in the underside. Looks like some damage from past off-roading. Thanks for the help!
You might check with a local mechanic..., they may know if that seal can be replaced W/O removing the cover.
There's a lip on the cover that slips over the pan gasket. It helps to have the front of the pan loose to ease it out
and in. And, I believe the cover gasket set comes with a new front pan gasket.
It's a bit tricky the first time but, very doable.
You can test the T-chain & gears at any time by turning eng. (crank nut) back-n-forth with a
socket & breaker-bar, (key off) while watching the rotor in the dizzy. It (rotor) should move shortly
after the direction of turn is changed on the crank nut. (meaning not a lot of slop)
If cover must come off..,
It's best to start with timing mark on -0- and the rotor pointing to #1 spark plug wire inside the dizzy.
Then, with the cover off.., you can visually inspect the chain-n-gears.
The timing marks will (should already) be lined up B4 removal of gears -n- chain (if necessary) then the new set goes on with the two marks in the same location.
As I recall, you put the gears in the chain then slide both gears on at the same time. I believe they're key-wayed.
Once off.., don't move the crank or cam shaft for any reason.., except ever so slightly to slip the gears in place, but not likely.
Hope this is clear as mud.....
/
Wouldn't hurt to look in the book..., the pics are helpful..., & they walk you thru it.
There's a lip on the cover that slips over the pan gasket. It helps to have the front of the pan loose to ease it out
and in. And, I believe the cover gasket set comes with a new front pan gasket.
It's a bit tricky the first time but, very doable.
You can test the T-chain & gears at any time by turning eng. (crank nut) back-n-forth with a
socket & breaker-bar, (key off) while watching the rotor in the dizzy. It (rotor) should move shortly
after the direction of turn is changed on the crank nut. (meaning not a lot of slop)
If cover must come off..,
It's best to start with timing mark on -0- and the rotor pointing to #1 spark plug wire inside the dizzy.
Then, with the cover off.., you can visually inspect the chain-n-gears.
The timing marks will (should already) be lined up B4 removal of gears -n- chain (if necessary) then the new set goes on with the two marks in the same location.
As I recall, you put the gears in the chain then slide both gears on at the same time. I believe they're key-wayed.
Once off.., don't move the crank or cam shaft for any reason.., except ever so slightly to slip the gears in place, but not likely.
Hope this is clear as mud.....
/Wouldn't hurt to look in the book..., the pics are helpful..., & they walk you thru it.
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Hi all,
I am currently looking at ordering a new oil pan for my 302. I have been checking all the regular sites(JBG,Wild Horses,Etc.) and I also looked at Autozone.com. Everywhere I have looked it goes for a few hundred bucks, however the oil pan at Autozone is only $55.00. Any idea why this part is so much cheaper? I want to save some money but also do not want to buy something if it is not good. Has anyone got any advice on this? And also any brand gaskets they recommend? Thanks!
Here is the link: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Spectre-Performance-Oil-Pan-Performance/1973-Ford-Bronco/_/N-ip7q6Za033k?itemIdentifier=310088_513811_18717_
I am currently looking at ordering a new oil pan for my 302. I have been checking all the regular sites(JBG,Wild Horses,Etc.) and I also looked at Autozone.com. Everywhere I have looked it goes for a few hundred bucks, however the oil pan at Autozone is only $55.00. Any idea why this part is so much cheaper? I want to save some money but also do not want to buy something if it is not good. Has anyone got any advice on this? And also any brand gaskets they recommend? Thanks!
Here is the link: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Spectre-Performance-Oil-Pan-Performance/1973-Ford-Bronco/_/N-ip7q6Za033k?itemIdentifier=310088_513811_18717_
AZ pan doesn't look correct.., (no indent & only holds 4qt.)
Check Toms Br Parts.., New & used factory style pans. Used, approx. $165
The indent allows room for the "pumpkin" as suspension articulates. i.e. sump front & back.
AZ pan showing 4 qt. Factory 6-7 qt.
Check Toms Br Parts.., New & used factory style pans. Used, approx. $165
The indent allows room for the "pumpkin" as suspension articulates. i.e. sump front & back.
AZ pan showing 4 qt. Factory 6-7 qt.
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Thanks for warning me before I bought it. I am wondering where the dipstick tube bolts to near the top. Currently mine is just hanging between manifold and engine wall, looks like it should be bolted down somewhere.
V/8's had a flimzy arm holding the top of the tube, as I recall.
Mine was gone as well due to the headers. I made my own out of some scrap metal & attached it to the block.
BTW.., if your present pan doesn't have the dual sump...., you may have the wrong oil pump, & pick-up tube-n-screen.
Mine was gone as well due to the headers. I made my own out of some scrap metal & attached it to the block.
BTW.., if your present pan doesn't have the dual sump...., you may have the wrong oil pump, & pick-up tube-n-screen.
I'm attempting to remove my oil pan for some cleaning and new gaskets. I will also be replacing my timing cover seal and gasket. Is there anything in particular I should be aware of before I start? Will the oil pan be able to be unbolted and dropped without any issues? Also the timing cover, I'm sure I will have to remove belts, etc. But anything major I should know? Sorry I've just never done this before and don't want any surprises. Thanks
It's all pretty straight forward/pretty easy.
The pan drops down & then must clear the oil pump. Most likely you'll be able to clear it.., especially with the T-chain cover off. AND you have a "lift"..? .., that helps.
All that monkey-motion comes off the front of the eng. with ease.., however it's poss. you may need to rent a puller to remove the "harmonic balancer". You don't want to "bang" on it (not good for the crank, etc.)
Radiator out helps as well.
"Cleanliness" is the key upon reassemble. Squeaky clean all gasket surfaces.
You may want to try this if you so choose;
I glue the pan gaskets to the pan with contact cement., & place the bolts thru the holes while it dries for a while.
I use (automotive) rtv in the corners where the front/rear gaskets meet the cork. (some gaskets are all one-piece rubber.., which is good I guess.., however I've not had an occasion to use one)
Then only use heavy grease (meaning not the thin/watery type) where gasket mates to the eng. block/bottom. (this way you can R&R the pan a time or two if necessary W/O changing the gasket & W/O all the cleaning/scraping)
Leave the pan loose to install the T-chain cover with ease..., or just install the cover first.
I glue the T-chain cork gasket to the cover as well.
Flatten any torque dimples in the pan holes B/4 applying gaskets.
HTH,
B
P.S. If memory serves, the T-chain cover is a large alum. cast unit. And, it has some water passages.
Check for rot-thru. (I had one with a hole eaten through.., which, in my case, was patchable)
P.S.S. You can secure the gaskets with (automotive) rtv as well.., it just takes longer to dry.
The pan drops down & then must clear the oil pump. Most likely you'll be able to clear it.., especially with the T-chain cover off. AND you have a "lift"..? .., that helps.
All that monkey-motion comes off the front of the eng. with ease.., however it's poss. you may need to rent a puller to remove the "harmonic balancer". You don't want to "bang" on it (not good for the crank, etc.)
Radiator out helps as well.
"Cleanliness" is the key upon reassemble. Squeaky clean all gasket surfaces.
You may want to try this if you so choose;
I glue the pan gaskets to the pan with contact cement., & place the bolts thru the holes while it dries for a while.
I use (automotive) rtv in the corners where the front/rear gaskets meet the cork. (some gaskets are all one-piece rubber.., which is good I guess.., however I've not had an occasion to use one)
Then only use heavy grease (meaning not the thin/watery type) where gasket mates to the eng. block/bottom. (this way you can R&R the pan a time or two if necessary W/O changing the gasket & W/O all the cleaning/scraping)
Leave the pan loose to install the T-chain cover with ease..., or just install the cover first.
I glue the T-chain cork gasket to the cover as well.
Flatten any torque dimples in the pan holes B/4 applying gaskets.
HTH,
B
P.S. If memory serves, the T-chain cover is a large alum. cast unit. And, it has some water passages.
Check for rot-thru. (I had one with a hole eaten through.., which, in my case, was patchable)
P.S.S. You can secure the gaskets with (automotive) rtv as well.., it just takes longer to dry.
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The fan-n-pully can come off seperately..., I do this so as to clean-n-paint them if needed.
But.., if memory serves, the water pump is there as well.., and needs to be removed.
And., the T-chain bolts are diff. lengths as I recall. Might make a mental note upon removal.
Also, go slow & work those bolts loose.... soak, if necessary, w/penatrating oil. I think a couple live
in a wet environment.
But.., if memory serves, the water pump is there as well.., and needs to be removed.
And., the T-chain bolts are diff. lengths as I recall. Might make a mental note upon removal.
Also, go slow & work those bolts loose.... soak, if necessary, w/penatrating oil. I think a couple live
in a wet environment.
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They usually come out pretty easily.
You could remove the water pump bolts & remove as a unit..., then work on it on the bench.
(assuming you can get to the bolts.)
You could remove the water pump bolts & remove as a unit..., then work on it on the bench.
(assuming you can get to the bolts.)
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I was able to remove fan blade and pulley. Next I'm guessing it will be easier if I remove alternator, etc in order to make room?
Also should I replace water pump since I will have the cover off already?
And when removing harmonic balancer do I just take out bolts on the inside of pulley? I know you had mentioned putting to mark '0'. Is there something I need to do before removing timing cover? Sorry for so many questions.
Also should I replace water pump since I will have the cover off already?
And when removing harmonic balancer do I just take out bolts on the inside of pulley? I know you had mentioned putting to mark '0'. Is there something I need to do before removing timing cover? Sorry for so many questions.
Ran into a bit of a problem. While removing water pump cover, two bolts broke off. I was able to remove cover and have about 1/2" of the thread visible. How do I get these out? I have sprayed with penetrating oil and attempted pliers, but no luck.
Some guys get all the fun.... ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
The water pump is a judgment call..., if it should fail, you'd have to remove all that stuff again to get to it.
With the t-chain cover off you should see the two timing marks (dots) next to each other. The cam gear dot
will be at the bottom. The crank gear dot will be at the top. If it's (gears-n-chain) not worn-n-sloppy you
could probably re-use but the set is pretty cheap considering.
You're lucky there's 1/2 inch to work with on the broken bolts.
Soaking is good and you can try working them back-n-forth tiny bits at a time with "vice-grips"
You don't want to break them off any shorter, or in the block. If they come out a ways, soak some more &
keep wiggling. Once they're out.., it's a good idea to clean out the threads with a "QUALITY" tap.
Pick up some waterproof thread protector at a boat shop or autoparts store to put on the threads for re-assemble.
The harmonic & timing gears are on key-ways (as I recall) so they can't go back on wrong.
Ask away....! that's what we're here for. B)
The water pump is a judgment call..., if it should fail, you'd have to remove all that stuff again to get to it.
With the t-chain cover off you should see the two timing marks (dots) next to each other. The cam gear dot
will be at the bottom. The crank gear dot will be at the top. If it's (gears-n-chain) not worn-n-sloppy you
could probably re-use but the set is pretty cheap considering.
You're lucky there's 1/2 inch to work with on the broken bolts.
Soaking is good and you can try working them back-n-forth tiny bits at a time with "vice-grips"
You don't want to break them off any shorter, or in the block. If they come out a ways, soak some more &
keep wiggling. Once they're out.., it's a good idea to clean out the threads with a "QUALITY" tap.
Pick up some waterproof thread protector at a boat shop or autoparts store to put on the threads for re-assemble.
The harmonic & timing gears are on key-ways (as I recall) so they can't go back on wrong.
Ask away....! that's what we're here for. B)
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