Odd "clunk" when start moving

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Howdy95

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Alright, I have a '95 Bronco XLT with auto locking 4wd, stock 4speed auto trans (if you need more information just ask- vehicle is stock except the air filter and exhaust). Everytime I begin moving the vehicle it makes an odd clunking noise and I also notice it when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. I tried the same thing while in four wheel drive and it proceeded to make the same noise. But its not just a noise, because you can actually feel it a little too. I don't know anything about automobiles, but would like to at least know what is wrong so any help would be appreciated, thanks. (I can only pray it is not an expensive fix)

 

footmaster

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i had a simliar problem.....clunk when i would just about come to a full stop then right as i was taking off again....i beleive the root of my problem was the auto lockers......

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo!

where is da clucnk coming from?...anyine avail. to stand around the B to hear it's source?

some thAngs to ck;

ck Drive shaft rear Yoke - common clunk there; some remove boot and grease it...

Clunk or grunt from the driveline during acceleration or stopping may be caused by engine torque preventing the slip yoke from sliding smoothly on the transmission output shaft splines (TSB 96-23-20, Nov. '96)

Source: by CanadianDriver.com

-----------

Universal Joint Pulling Problems, Ford 4x4, Bound-up outer axle u-joints can cause weird steering non-returnability, pulling, noises, etc. A suggested idea is to reach up and turn the drive axle 90 degrees at the outer u-joint, look for rust bleeding out of the u-joint caps, feel for looseness. (click Technical, Tech Tip Archives, NSTSB5 9/26/98 Ford Pickup Pulling Problem) Source: by Northstar Manufacturing Company northstarmfg.com

FORD TSB 96-25-21

A "clunk" noise heard/felt through the steering column when maneuvering in parking lots, driving in stop-and-go traffic, and driving over bumps may occur on some vehicles. This may be due to a "slip-stick" condition of the slider spring to the outer tube of the lower steering shaft.

ACTION:

Replace the lower steering column shaft assembly with a revised Lower Steering Column Shaft (-3B676-) assembly. For removal and installation procedure, refer to the appropriate year F-150/F-250 Service Manual.

PART NUMBER PART NAME

F7TZ-3B676-AA Lower Steering Column Shaft (1996 Vehicles)

F7TZ-3B676-CA Lower Steering Column Shaft (1997 Vehicles)

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:

NONE

SUPERSEDES:

96-20-15

WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

962521A Replace Lower Steering Column Shaft - 1997 F-150 0.5 Hr.

962521B Replace Lower Steering Column Shaft - 1996 F-Series And Bronco 0.4 Hr.

DEALER CODING

BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE

3B676 56

OASIS CODES:

303000, 304000, 702000, 702100

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a clunk or grunt from the driveline during acceleration or stopping may be caused by engine torque preventing the slip yoke from sliding smoothly on the transmission output shaft splines (96-23-20, Nov. '96)

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Clunk on Take-Off Bulletin Info, Borg Warner 1356 (GEARS Mag Sep01)

Source: by Mike W via web.archive.org

Taming Some Tough Transfer Case Problems

by Mike Weinberg,

President of Rockland Standard Gear Inc.

If you work on 4-wheel drive trucks, then you've seen the Borg Warner 1356 and the New Process 241 transfer cases. These are two very common units that have some difficult problems to solve. In the following pages, I will discuss some of these problems and their associated fixes. For those of you planning to attend this year's Expo in Rhode Island, you'll get even more fixes for some standard transmission problems during my Stick Tricks seminar.

Let's start with the Borg Warner 1356 and some common planet problems. Late design planets have a bronze ****** washer between the back of the input gear (sun gear) and the back of the planetary carrier case (figure 1). These washers wear out due to ****** loads creating excessive endplay in the carrier. The carrier cannot be disassembled and must be replaced as an assembly. The clearance between the input gear ( sun gear) and the back of the planet carrier should not exceed 60/1000 of an inch. Early design planets were produced without the ****** washer, but still have wear problems causing excessive endplay and disengagement of the transfer case. Clearance should not exceed 60/1000 of an inch.

You can measure the input clearance as shown in figure 2 with a dial indicator. Zero the indicator with the input resting in the planet case. Pull up on the input gently and read the indicated amount of travel. The same measurement can be made with a feeler gauge. Place the gauge between the bottom of the input and the planetary case to measure the clearance (figure 3). Either method of measurement will work with early or late design planets.

Another common problem with the 1356 is case wear. It is not unusual for the oil pump-retaining bracket to damage the case. Figure 4 shows that this particular case has a notch at least half way through the aluminum boss.

There are two ways to fix this problem without replacing the case: one method is to bend the bracket to relocate it to a fresh spot on the case. The second is to rivet or weld a small foot on the end of the bracket that is the same width as the slot in the case, which will prevent further wear. If the bracket is allowed to eat through the case, the oil pump will spin on the shaft; tearing out the feed line and the unit will self-destruct due to lack of pressurized ****.

Manually shifted units usually exhibit wear on the selector shaft in two areas (figure 5). Shaft wear in any form will make the unit disengage or have very sloppy shifting. The star shaped end of the shaft where it mates with the shift cam is also prone to wear. Borg Warner released an updated shift cam with an Allen ***** to tighten up the fit and retain the manual lever. Look at the section of the manual lever that rides in the case, which is also subject to wear from dirt and two dissimilar metals in close contact.

read more here

 
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Howdy95

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Thanks for the replies guys, I'll see whats up as soon as I get some time...

 

sicksaintpat

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I guess I'm going to be the one to revive this thread. I've just rebuilt my rear differential after it decided to eat itself from the inside out, which led me to find excessive play in the rear output of the t-case. it turned out that the ****** nut worked its way almost entirely off (about 1.5 threads till F.O.), after torquing it down and applying loctite I've started noticing the thunk sound, it only happens during take off after engine braking/downshifting. I've re-lubed the case, inspected the u-joints, checked balance on drive shaft, torque checked the nut again, pretty much everything short of removing and disassembling the entire t-case looked pretty good. I did a lateral movement check on the output shaft and it's about .075" front to back, and about .0045" perpendicular. The question I'm throwing out to be mulled over by those more knowledgeable than I in t-case problems is: what is the most likely culprit for this problem and how can I go about fixing it on the cheap? I'm hoping one of you folks could help me out. I'll start a new thread in a couple of days if this doesn't get a reply here. 

 

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