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When the ignition is switched to the ON position, it turns the EEC Power Relay on. The EEC Power Relay provides power to the EEC-IV processor and the control side of the fuel pump relay. Power for the fuel pump is supplied through a fuse link or high current fuse attached to the starter solenoid (battery side). From the fuse link or high current fuse, current flow is through the fuel pump relay and Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch to the fuel pump. The IFS switch is a safety device used to shut off the fuel pump in the event of a collision. If the IFS switch is "tripped," it must be reset by depressing the white or red button on the top of the switch. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the fuel pump will operate. If the ignition switch is not turned to the START position, the PCM will shut the fuel pump off after approximately one second. The PCM will operate the fuel pump when the ignition is in the START position to provide fuel while cranking.
After the engine starts, the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump unless the engine stops, engine speed drops below 120 rpm, or the IFS switch is "tripped."
In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_ign_fender/fender_mounted_module_1.php
If your coil is already off the Bronco, you can bench test your coil. To set up the test, remove one spark plug wire from its plug, then remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket. Next put the spark plug back into the spark plug wire. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole.
Holding the plug wire with insulated pliers, find a spot on the engine that is a good and easily accessible grounding point. Pretty much any exposed metal, including the engine itself, will do.
Holding the spark plug wire with your pliers, touch the threaded portion of the spark plug to the grounding point. Have somebody crank the engine with the key, and look for a bright blue spark to jump across the spark plug gap. If you see a nice, bright spark (clearly visible in daylight) your coil is doing its job.
and/or;
Make a spark tester for that test;
W/ an old spark plug and cut off the L-shaped tip,& clean up the center electrode and surrounding metal with a bit of sandpaper
Drill a small hole in the thickest part of the metal (where the wrench goes on). Use a metal ***** to attach a length of wire, a couple of feet, to the body of the spark plug. To the other end of the wire, solder or otherwise attach a big alligator clip.
Since the tip is cut off, the spark will have to be stronger to jump the wider gap. It is harder for a spark to form in a compressed cylinder so it more accurately represents the spark performance under running conditions. With the engine off, remove the spark plug wire you wish to test from the spark plug. Attach the spark tester to the plug wire and connect the alligator clip to a good ground. Remember that the coil output can give you a very nasty shock, so make sure to wear thick gloves or use a rag to hold the tester, and not to touch the body of the car when the system is energized. Hold the tester away from the car body and use your remote starter switch or have an assistant start the car (or simply turn it over). You should get a healthy bluish white spark from the center post to the side of the spark tester.
94 Fuel Pressure
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/leftside=vras9al.htm&rightside=vras9ar.htm
WARNING: BEFORE SERVICING OR REPLACING ANY COMPONENTS IN THE FUEL SYSTEM, REDUCE THE POSSIBILITY OF INJURY OR FIRE, AS OUTLINED UNDER "NOTES, CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS."
- Key off.
- Before releasing fuel system pressure at the Schrader fitting, observe the Warning Instructions to avoid fuel spillage and injury.
- Install the fuel pressure tester.
- Ground the fuel pump lead of the Data Link Connector (DLC) (Figure 15) with a jumper at the FP lead.
- Key On, Engine Off, to operate the fuel pump(s).
- Verify that the observed fuel pressure is within specified limits for the engine being checked.
- Specification: Fuel System Pressure (Key On, Engine Off) Refer to "Fuel Pressure Specification Table."
KEY ON
ENGINE
OFF 35 - 45 PSI FDS3 CHECK FUEL PRESSURE LEAKDOWN
- Observe the "Notes, Cautions and Warnings" to avoid fuel spillage and injury.
- Connect the Fuel Pressure Test Kit at the fuel pressure test point.
- Connect a jumper to the FP lead of the DLC.
- Key on, engine off.
- Ground the test lead using the jumper wire to run the fuel pump.
- Run the fuel pump for 30 seconds minimum.
- Remove the test lead ground and note fuel pressure on the gauge.
- Verify whether the fuel pressure remains within the specified 5 psi for 1 minute after the test lead is ungrounded.
FDS4 CHECK PRESSURE REGULATOR DIAPHRAGM CONDITION
- Key off.
- Connect Fuel Pressure Test Kit at Schrader fitting on rail. Observe Warning Instructions to avoid fuel spillage and injury.
- Start engine and run for 10 seconds.
- Stop engine and wait 10 seconds.
- Start engine and run for 10 seconds.
- Stop engine and remove vacuum hose from pressure regulator.
- Examine vacuum port in the pressure regulator for evidence of fuel leakage through the diaphragm. OR any gas Aroma
Is vacuum port free of any fuel? or fuel Aroma?
Yes No GO to Group 10 of the Service Manual for leak test. REPLACE pressure regulator and RERUN test
FDS2.
Read More
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/leftside=vras9al.htm&rightside=vras9ar.htm
Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 TSB 95-15-11 for 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT)); "..The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain wire (Circuit 48.) cutting through the insulation of, and shorting to, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) wire (Circuit 395) or the spark output (SPOUT) wire (Circuit 929) near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-pin connector. A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire..."
Source: by Ford via Chilton
http://content.chiltonsonline.com/TSB/displayTSBHandler.ashx?assetID=37119&key=6kAUBD5BruOJf%2f3tgozUqjXM3RdbjcQqW4sVWiE%2fp2IojfpfKqM07dr61%2bQAWHtT%2bshJrOWtEbHVAFIsEaIdE%2fTFOfEKOiDQb7eKlbQRF0xqkEugoEoMIQ%3d%3d
