Ok check this out.( I think I may have a bad module.) It has been replaced, it is new, Butt!! it is a new unit from Shcucks kragen.. I have no spark, There is a signal from the tachometer side of the coil and there is 12 volts at the coil. I have a dwell reading as well as a posotive testlight test on the tach side of the coil. There is good voltage at the coil while cranking and in run position.We have repalaced the coil, the distributor pickup coil, plugs spark plug wires, spark plugs, and module. There is a wiring schematic in the haynes manual that states there is a 60 pin computer module. I don't see it on the bronco anywhere. It is a carbereted engine. with mechanical fuel pump. Anyone have any ideas why there is no spark???
No spark
- Thread starter bronco311
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Seabronc
New member
I'm not sure which module you are talking about. Assuming that you have a duraspark II system, There are 2, one inside the distributor and one on the driver side wheel well. If you have an EEC, it is located under the pasenger seat and you will not have a unit on the driver side wheel well.
The one inside the distributor is more likely your problem, but verify what is the problem before wasting any more of your money. Diagnosing a problem rather than shotgunning it is less expensive
.
Attached is a duraspark and an EEC diagram. If you have EEC then I will attach more diagrams.
Good luck,
>-
The one inside the distributor is more likely your problem, but verify what is the problem before wasting any more of your money. Diagnosing a problem rather than shotgunning it is less expensive
.Attached is a duraspark and an EEC diagram. If you have EEC then I will attach more diagrams.
Good luck,
>-I agree with Seabronc, But the ignition box on the wheelwell is quite often the culpret. If there is anyway you can try out another ignition box, I'd say do that next. Might even be worth it to grab one from the auto wreckers. Make sure you count the wires on you old one and make sure the new one is the same. The problem with that is you might pick up a box that doesnt work either.
The module I am reffering to is the one on the left fender well. I didn't see one under the seat. I did replace the pickup coil in the distributor but there is still no spark. I get twelve volts to the coil at cranking and about eight at run position. there is a pulse signal coming from the tach side of the coil. I seems that the coil is bad or maybe the module. I get 3.5 ohms resistance from the ballast resistor. Seems a little high but should still get a spark during cranking.I'm not sure which module you are talking about. Assuming that you have a duraspark II system, There are 2, one inside the distributor and one on the driver side wheel well. If you have an EEC, it is located under the pasenger seat and you will not have a unit on the driver side wheel well.
The one inside the distributor is more likely your problem, but verify what is the problem before wasting any more of your money. Diagnosing a problem rather than shotgunning it is less expensive
Attached is a duraspark and an EEC diagram. If you have EEC then I will attach more diagrams.
Good luck,
Question is why does everything test ok but still no spark. This all started with the main fusible link at the start solenoid burning up due to touching ground. Is there a 60 pin computer on this 84 bronco and where is it?, I pretty sure it is the duraspark 2 setup. or is this a schematic from a 'haynes' manual covering all models adding to the confusion. Thanks for your help it's greatly appreciated.
Seabronc
New member
You would only have one under the passenger seat if you have an EEC system. You aparently have a Duraspark II. Everything sounds good as far as your readings go. There is no 60 pin connector on a Duraspark II system. Yes, your Haynes is confusing the issue. Use the diagrams and trouble shooting procedure I gave you from the Ford EVTM. The ballast resistor on the Durspark II system is a long length of resistance wire burried in the wiring harness. As yet I haven't heard of one thet went bad. The start and run position voltages are normal. You might want to check the grounding of the distributor and engine block. What shape is the reluctor in, (the star shaped wheel inside the distributor). Also, I have seen both modules bad right off the shelf, especially brand X type. This is a place to use real Ford parts. If you use the troubleshooting procedure I gave you it will give you a procedure to determine if it is the module on the wheel well or the pickup coil. Coils have also been known to come in bad right out of the box.
I'd put all the original parts back in and do the entire peocedure. It will narrow it down to a single component. If I replace a component and it doesn't change the symptom, the old one goes back in and I recheck my thinking on why I thought that part was bad in the first place. If the conclusion is still that part I get another new one. That way you don't add the confusion of whether or not you replaced something with a bad part. Shotgunning is too expensive and does not constitute trouble shooting.
"Parts replacement is not troubleshooting".\
>-
Last edited by a moderator:
BLADE262US
Active member
A 1984 bronco should have the duraspark 2 which is pretty easy to figure out whats wrong , The box mounted to the fenderwell there is 2 plugs that come out of it one has a red and a white wire that white wire will have 12 volts on it with the key in the run position and the red only has 12 volts on it in the crank position . you can unplug this and check that with a meter or a lught and a helper . Now you said you changed the box ? Where the wires go in to the box the strain relief is colored to designate what motor its for make sure the color is the same as your old box or they gave you the wrong one and it will not work . The other plug has 3 wires in it if I remember right and that plug goes to the distributor now here it only uses 2 of them for the magnetic pickup and the 3rd goes to ground . You can check that pickup by putting your meter wires on the 2 leads from it and flagging a screwdriver in front of the pickup you will see the needle or display on your meter bounce if its sending a signal . More than likely its the box on the fenderwell Ive only seen a couple pickup,s die and that was usually due to physical damage . Double check the red and white power by Seabroncs diagrams Im sure it was backward of what I had thought a long time ago youd think red would be hot all the time but not so on these and if you dont have 12 volts on that red wire during cranking you may have a bad ignition switch or its not adjusted properly . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
swampthing
New member
try replacing the "brain" or module whichever you choose to call it on the wheel well
Seabronc
New member
The diagrams come from the Ford EVTM (Electric and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual), one of the service manuals. You can usually find them on ebay from the dealers that specialize in auto manuals. I have them for several different years. Search ebay for, "Ford nnnn EVTM", nnnn being the year manual you are interested in finding. If you don't get a hit on one you are looking for contact a couple of the dealers and ask them if they will notify you when they get one. They are the single most usefull manuals for trouble shooting electric and vacuum problems. Every function is handled seperately and unlike Haynes and Chiltons they don't confuse you with a bunch of lines running all over the diagram that have nothing to do with the function you are looking at.
I'd also suggest that you get a complete set of service manuals for the year of your truck. Chilton and Haynes are a readers digest version of what is in the real books and leave out a ton of stuff. They can be a little expensive but well worth the expense for a serious wrencher. Be cautious about the ones on CD, I'm not sure what you will get, they don't claim it is the real Ford service manuals. Just to find out, I just ordered one for my truck to see if it is the samething as my hard copies. I'll update my pinned item on this subject when I get it.
>-seawalkersee
New member
I broused through the replies but did not see if you had taken a test light to the coil connections. If you did this did you have a constant light or a flashing light? It SHOULD flash. If not...you guessed it. No signal from the Dist or ignition box. Now that we have beaten that horse to death...save yourself some time by replacing the Duraspark box with a quality MSD or other aftermarket box. You wont be sorry.
Chris
Chris
Seabronc
New member
Just to update on the CD that was on ebay. The dealer is no longer on ebay, I've got a feeling they bounced him. He did send a CD, but it was a piece of crap. Apparently it was supposed to be a Chilton's but I could not get it to load onto my PC. That is not to say that all CD's are ***** I believe that from 96 Ford only released the service manuals on CD. Just watch out for CD's that claim to be the service manuals prior to that date.
>-
>-
yo, found a Chilton DS II Test @:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?F...23d800a506e.jsp
did not validate entire test w/hard copy of Haynes/Chilton manuals, but color codes look ok from a quick ck.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_libra...urasparkII.html
btw, what color Grommet is on that module?
and, I prefer Ford MC parts over some parts store stock; their off-brand pick-up coils are suspect; here is Bubba's List w/Ford PN's;
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/parts/parts07.html
also, forgot if you checked all connectors for corrosion, etc.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?F...23d800a506e.jsp
did not validate entire test w/hard copy of Haynes/Chilton manuals, but color codes look ok from a quick ck.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_libra...urasparkII.html
btw, what color Grommet is on that module?
and, I prefer Ford MC parts over some parts store stock; their off-brand pick-up coils are suspect; here is Bubba's List w/Ford PN's;
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/parts/parts07.html
also, forgot if you checked all connectors for corrosion, etc.
Last edited by a moderator:
Ford Motorcraft
Justbust1n
New member
yeah i would like to know to ... i have seen you post alot of good info from it and i wouldnt mind getting my hands on it myself
