No Spark Situation.

[kgriffi1]

While driving one day she just shut down. Once she cooled off I made it home fine. Then the problem picked up till the point it won't start at all now. I found that there is no spark so I replaced the coil. She started up and ran, but then she shut down again. Form there I checked the rotor button and cap. they all seem fine. There was no backfiring or missing. It will either run or not. I thought it might be the distributor mounted ICM. I removed it and checked it with an ohm meter. It seems to be fine. Any suggestions. Also the fuel pumps are turning on and running. The plugs are new and soaked in fuel due to the no spark situation. Thanks

 

[bidibronco]

I would try a whole new distributer. I had that problem on a car I had and it was a bad dis. Just my $.02

 

[madmax]

Might not hurt to first try changing the cap and rotor, even if they look good the gap could have grown too big.

 

[snowman74]

I would replace that ignition control module. Make sure you use the grease on the contact side....that thing will heat up and die without that grease. It's a relatively cheap fix if it works. I know an engine will just die when that thing goes out, but what I don't know is if it will intermittently run and die. Another thing you need to check are your battery cables. Is your ground on tight enough? Is the cable clamp cracked?

Snowman74 >-

 

[miesk5]

There is also a Hall Effect Switch (stator, or also called pick-up) in da distr.

Hall Effect, Stator (RPM) Overview & Wave Form, Ford Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection

Anytime a Ford TFI module is diagnosed as having failed, several steps should be followed.1. Verify charging system operation; specifically, charging voltage.2. Verify ignition system operation; specifically, there are no open or disconnected plug wires.3. Remove distributor cap and inspect connections where TFI module hooks to the Hall Effect Switch connector. If there is any sign of deterioration at the connector, the Hall Effect pickup must be replaced. Crankcase vapors are forced into the distributor due to excessive crankcase pressure due to a worn engine or an improperly maintained PCV system. The crankcase vapors cause deterioration of the insulation around the connectors causing the module to short out.

Since replacing the sensor easy on these applications because you have to R&R the distributor shaft, so most dealers &^ shops install a new or rebuilt distributor;

but they can be removed and tested; Chilton has a method.

 

[kgriffi1]

Thanks Guys. I'll throw a multimeter on there and see what I can find out. I feel as though it's one of the distributor components. I'll let you know what I find out.

 

[kgriffi1]

In the middle of testing several different components the truck just started right up. I figured it was a lose connection somewhere so I waited till dark and with a little jiggling found the source of my problem. A wire from the wiring harness was shorting out to the valve cover. A bit of electrical tape and some conduit fixed her right up. Thanks guys.

 

[Seabronc]

In the middle of testing several different components the truck just started right up. I figured it was a lose connection somewhere so I waited till dark and with a little jiggling found the source of my problem. A wire from the wiring harness was shorting out to the valve cover. A bit of electrical tape and some conduit fixed her right up. Thanks guys.

If you have a duraspark II ignition, that is a common problem caused by a bad pickup module inside the distributor. It is fine when cool, but when it gets hot it shorts out inside.

Good luck,

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