I was driving home and stoped at Walmart and got out to the truck and everything seemed normal fuel pump kicked on wen I turned the key and I waited a second for pressure to build up just till I can't hear it and turned the key click and everything died nothing not even the dome light ok so the battery ran down I went back in and bought a volt meter and checked the battery and damn 12.90 and thought crap I just love chasing electrical problems down I have power to the battery,msd box to the solinoid just no power to the truck I can't find anything on a master power fuse maybe or a relay please help.thanks sam
no power
- Thread starter bronco5.8
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Oh sorry it's a 1993 bronco xlt 5.8 auto electric everything so don't know where to start kinda at a loss my baby has never let me down before and she has 270k mi has had a rebuild everything almost but never stranded me
yo,
Battery Static & Load Test, general; "...Static testing : With a good digital voltmeter check the static voltage. If it is above 12.6 remove the surface charge by operating the headlights for 15 to 30 seconds and then recheck. A reading of 12.6 or higher indicates a full charge. A reading of 12.4 indicates 25% discharge. A reading of 12.2 indicated 50% discharge. A reading of 12.0 indicates 75% discharge. A reading lower that 12 .0 indicates almost complete discharge..."
Source: by excelauto.com
Or pull batty and have it load tested for free somewhere.
because I've seen more owners with this problem due to a:
Dead Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. If this happens measure the S.G. in each cell. If one cell has a lower S.G. than the rest by a significant amount, replace the battery - there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory..."
Source: by Gordon via miesk5
It got to me last year.. I did all kinds of tests and couldn't fig out what it was until I recalled the old dead cell issue... I think a lot of batty mfgrs are losing quality ctrl.
Next is to ck all batty cable and grongs from batty to engine, fender apron, etc. Look for corrosion on posts/terminal and wire strands (see if there is any where wire strands meets terminal) under terminals
Ck for 12v @ starter relay large cable from batty
and then... look at fusible links last
Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Battery Static & Load Test, general; "...Static testing : With a good digital voltmeter check the static voltage. If it is above 12.6 remove the surface charge by operating the headlights for 15 to 30 seconds and then recheck. A reading of 12.6 or higher indicates a full charge. A reading of 12.4 indicates 25% discharge. A reading of 12.2 indicated 50% discharge. A reading of 12.0 indicates 75% discharge. A reading lower that 12 .0 indicates almost complete discharge..."
Source: by excelauto.com
Or pull batty and have it load tested for free somewhere.
because I've seen more owners with this problem due to a:
Dead Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. If this happens measure the S.G. in each cell. If one cell has a lower S.G. than the rest by a significant amount, replace the battery - there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory..."
Source: by Gordon via miesk5
It got to me last year.. I did all kinds of tests and couldn't fig out what it was until I recalled the old dead cell issue... I think a lot of batty mfgrs are losing quality ctrl.
Next is to ck all batty cable and grongs from batty to engine, fender apron, etc. Look for corrosion on posts/terminal and wire strands (see if there is any where wire strands meets terminal) under terminals
Ck for 12v @ starter relay large cable from batty
and then... look at fusible links last
Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
BroncoJoe19
Active member
Besides testing the battery as suggested by our friend Miesk5, I'd check and clean battery cables at both ends, all the way to the starter.
If the battery is good, and the connections are clean and tight, you might try jumping the starter relay on the fender, if that doesn't do it, then I'd pull the starter, take it to get it tested and be prepared to buy a new/remanned one.
If the battery is good, and the connections are clean and tight, you might try jumping the starter relay on the fender, if that doesn't do it, then I'd pull the starter, take it to get it tested and be prepared to buy a new/remanned one.
Rons beast
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These problems happen way too often because of bad ground. You can have the strongest battery, but it won't do anything if the system has lost ground.
Start by checking the main ground at the block, and then all frame and body grounds. And if you have replacement battery terminal ends, (the kind that clamp to the wire) they can be the problem even if they appear tight.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
Start by checking the main ground at the block, and then all frame and body grounds. And if you have replacement battery terminal ends, (the kind that clamp to the wire) they can be the problem even if they appear tight.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
Well I finally got it home I kinda getto rigged it to get it home the last owner did the fuseable wire and it rubbed through in the fender so I got the fuseable wire and connectors and went back and started tearing into her the wires are bigger than 12 gauge wire so I got one to fit like it's suppose to and the other one I used a universal battery end and clamped it together for now I have my dad's truck untill I can find the parts to fix it right like every thing else on it I need some time to figure out what I want to do to make it work and look right.it took about thirty minutes to get it going again and my dad made several trips back into Walmart for parts they supprised me they had more then the autopart stores in mineola so she is going but waiting for parts thanks Guy's for all the help I was at a loss this mourning I worked a double shift got pulled over (got a warning ) and then my truck it was like what next thanks sam
Rons beast
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Glad you got it going Sam, and hope you are having a better day today.
Don't you hate when somebody does a poor job altering something like wireing....and then you have to figure it out!! agh1
i feel your pain.
Good Luck
Don't you hate when somebody does a poor job altering something like wireing....and then you have to figure it out!! agh1
i feel your pain.
Good Luck
