No Power to the fuel pumps

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kgriffi1

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My 86 Bronco shut down on me the other day. The thermostat got stuck and it over heated. The engine shut down. I let it cool down and now it just turns over. After some choice phrases I got my stuff together and found the fuel pumps are not getting power. I hot wired the pumps so I can drive it for now. I traced out the wires to the inertia switch. There is no power at the inertia switch. I went farther back and found the relay. I replaced the fuel pump relay hoping that was the problem. No luck. Extra info> When I turn the ignition key on the relay clicks on. I also Jumped out the EEC plug to make the fuel pumps run constant. The relay turns on, but no whirling of the fuel pumps. Can anyone tell me what voltages I'm supposed to be getting to this relay (4 wires). I think I have a bad fusible link or EEC relay or a loose (open) connection somewhere. Do yall know where the EEC relay and the fusible link are located? If the EEC relay is not working why would the truck be running (What does the EEC relay do?)? Any help would be great. Thanks

 

89Bronco58

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ok so u replaced the relays, have u checked the pumps to make sure they do in fact work

 
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kgriffi1

kgriffi1

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ok so u replaced the relays, have u checked the pumps to make sure they do in fact work
I replaced the single relay. The way my truck is set up the relay sends all the power to both the internal and external fuel pumps via a single 12V source through the inertia switch. Yes the pumps work because I hot wired it and I'm driving the truck right now. BTW the fuel pumps run constant when the ignition key is in the run position anyway right? So there should be no problem sending then 12V from the battery and running them constant (except of course I have no fuses and no ignition control)?

 

89Bronco58

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if the key is on, the pumps are supposed to be on, you removed the fuses and ignition control? or they are just not working?

 
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kgriffi1

kgriffi1

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if the key is on, the pumps are supposed to be on, you removed the fuses and ignition control? or they are just not working?

Correct, when I turn the key on I don't get 12V to the pumps (no whirling sound from the pumps). I don't know how the relay is wired or where it gets it's power from. It's not sending 12V to my pumps. For temporary use I ran a wire from the battery to the pumps with a switch so I can manually control when the pumps are on (temporary just so I can drive it). In doing this I bypassed the relay, ignition control, inertia switch, and whatever else is in there (once again just temporary so I can drive it). Sorry about the confusion.

 

89Bronco58

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ok well if it was working that way, and now its not, my guess is that you fried the pumps by using a hard wire system

 
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kgriffi1

kgriffi1

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ok well if it was working that way, and now its not, my guess is that you fried the pumps by using a hard wire system

Once again, sorry about the confusion. The pumps run fine. I drive the truck currently with everything jumped out. My problem is when I hook it back up like it's supposed to be I don't get power to the fuel pumps. I'm running direct power right now so I can drive it. The pumps are fine.

 

89Bronco58

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oh ok sorry that one was my fault, kind of a confusing post. I would have to say unfortunatlly it sounds like you have done mostly everything, i would be checking the actual wires themselves and connections for breaks, i broke one of the 3 little brass ******* off the top of my tank and it still sent power to the pump but no ground, so it wouldnt run, looked there yet?

 

miesk5

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yo! Do you have this Chilton diagram?..it's for an 87, but could be same as your 86

by datrimm (HiTechRedNeck) "Also; the fusible link is a wire looking thing over between the battery and inside fender wall. it should hook to the starter relay. make sure you find the right color according to the diagram. if it's blown the black covering on the link should be burnt, that means it's blown. like a fuse, but it burns up instead of breaking, and it's not in plastic. on the diagram the fusible link is between transmission controls and the fuel injectors, at the top. you follow that down to the fuel pump relay, and then to the intertia switch, then it splits and goes to the in-tank pump and the frame rail pump

-

also, if you had corrosion in your relay socket, then you probably have it other places. one at a time unplug all relays and connectors on that fender and spray them down with contact cleaner. then after you let that do it's job for about 30min-1hr, go back and unplug each relay and connector again (one at a time) this time put them together with di-electric grease. you can buy a tube of it from any electrical/electronics supply or auto store. make sure you get everything plugged back in... see if that helps...

another thought, you said you checked the voltage to the relay, but the relay actually has two power inputs. one to power the magnetic coil, the other goes to the fuel pumps. the one that goes to the fuel pumps has a fusible link on it. if it's blown, no power will ever get to the pump until it's replaced... here is a diagram:"

dunno if this is same for your 86....sorry, aving a poor ISP connection today..

so, I can't switch browser windows good enought to compare all these color codes or wiring diagrams...Relay Overview & Diagrams

Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50)

Fuel Pump Relay Operational Sequence; The computer turns on the fuel pump relay 1. For about 2 seconds when you first turn the key to ON and 2. when it senses rotation in the dizzy from the pickup.

Source: by Will H (kf4amu, The Beast)

"...An electromagnetic operates the relay with minimal draw threw the switch. Relays are used in fuel injection to make computers cheaper and more reliable. The main computer has many jobs to do and can not do them alone. The computer sends small amounts of electricity to the relays which then control the high demand devices. Below are the internal workings of a basic relay...) (see his site)

Fuel Pump Relay Swap to Bosch Type in all pre-'92 EFI Bronco & F-series

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck)

Although you have no power to the Inertia Switch; figure i'd throw this in anyway...."...The Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch is a relay of sorts, so it gets to be on this page. This little relay is in your car to save your life from fire by shutting off the fuel pump in the event of an accident. It cuts the power to the fuel pumps when a pedetermined force is applied. Just like a circuit breaker the red button pops up when it is tripped. It consists of a steel ball held in place by a magnet. When a sharp impact occurs, the ball breaks loose from the magnet, rolls up and strikes a target which opens the electrical contacts of the switch and shuts off the electric fuel pump....)

Fuel Pump Relay Socket Corrosion Info; also, if you had corrosion in your relay socket, then you probably have it other places. one at a time unplug all relays and connectors... and spray them down with contact cleaner. then after you let that do it's job for about 30min-1hr, go back and unplug each relay and connector again (one at a time) this time put them together with di-electric grease. you can buy a tube of it from any electrical/electronics supply or auto store. make sure you get everything plugged back in

Source: by datrimm (HiTechRedNeck)

 
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kgriffi1

kgriffi1

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sounds good. Thanks for the info and diagram. I'll get back on it tonight and let you know what I find out tomorrow.

 

miesk5

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<a href="http://Fuel%20Pump%20Relay%20Swap%20to%20Bosch%20Type%20in%20all%20pre-'92%20EFI%20Bronco%20&%20F-series" target="_blank">one more by Steve..............with pics...and much info on, Fuel Pump Relay Swap to Bosch Type in all pre-'92 EFI Bronco & F-series

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net </a> CLICK Next to see more info and pics..eec & FP relays..etc...and Bosch relay wiring diagram by Steve

Thinking better now...let's look @ the relay(s) sockets for corrosion...EEC, then FP....

The fuel pump relay is the one secured to the green connector

the brown one is the EEC relay; from various bronco owners...

and again, thanks to Steve! "...This is a common problem in all pre-'92 EFI F-series & Broncos. These Ford-style relays are notorious for causing intermittent failures in the EEC & fuel pumps Yesterday, this EEC PWR relay decided to lock on, killing the battery. Today, its contacts are so bad that the truck won't run. So it's about to be TRASH..."

relays1.jpg

 
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kgriffi1

kgriffi1

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Thanks for all the info guys. I went to my relay yesterday and started checking voltages. I found that my relay was working and I was getting power. I started tracing my power all the way to the fuel pump. When I found I had 12V to the pumps I wend ahead and hooked them up. When they didn't run I checked the voltage again and my 12V disappeared. After tracing everything back I found i wasn't getting 12V constant to my relay (it magically disappeared under a load). I then traced that wire out to find the fusible link, thinking it was bad. after finding the link I checked it and found it was good. After a thorough inspection of the wire I found it had corroded in two. A little solder and shrink wrap and I'm back in business. Thanks again for the relay diagram.

 

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