no fire?

[rostheiceman]

so heres the deal the other day my igition mod melted down so yesterday i went and got a new one. ive got no spark so i went and got a new coil,still no spark so what the ****. i have power going to the coil+ and coming from the coil- but no spark coming from the coil. so i thought i got a bad coil of the shelf and still no spark. does anybody have a clue what this is i would love to know so i can fix it. te guy at the auto part store thinks it might be the computer. also as a side note when i turn the key the tach jumps. p.s. the dist is new

also i have a ongoing prob. after running the truck for a while and i shut it off i have to wait for about 30mins to start it back up. like if im going to work and stop at the store shut the truck off and try to start it up the starter drags really bad and will **** the battery really fast, but if i wait it will start up, also i found that the stater relay gets really really hot like burn the crap out of you hot just after a few cranks. so the starter is new. the relay is new. the battery holds a charge fine and pushes 1000amps.and the moter runs at about 165 so it not getting hot. has anyone else had this prob or heard of it

 

[miesk5]

so heres the deal the other day my igition mod melted down so yesterday i went and got a new one. ive got no spark so i went and got a new coil,still no spark so what the ****. i have power going to the coil+ and coming from the coil- but no spark coming from the coil. so i thought i got a bad coil of the shelf and still no spark. does anybody have a clue what this is i would love to know so i can fix it. te guy at the auto part store thinks it might be the computer. also as a side note when i turn the key the tach jumps. p.s. the dist is new

Read this thread for cking that coil

is distr turning?; see some replies in above thread.. is it installed @ TDC? or 180 deg out? more checks if this is all good so far...

Wiring Diagram in an 83 - see diagram #3 Source: by our pal Seabronc - see what he says abut ign sys type..Duraspark..efi...

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also i have a ongoing prob. after running the truck for a while and i shut it off i have to wait for about 30mins to start it back up. like if im going to work and stop at the store shut the truck off and try to start it up the starter drags really bad and will **** the battery really fast, but if i wait it will start up, also i found that the stater relay gets really really hot like burn the crap out of you hot just after a few cranks. so the starter is new. the relay is new. the battery holds a charge fine and pushes 1000amps.and the moter runs at about 165 so it not getting hot. has anyone else had this prob or heard of it

Was this happening before you replaced da starter, relay?

Assuming the battery cables & all Grounds are in good condition, it could be defective starter. It seems like the quality of starters and alternators from parts stores have gone down hill lately. If you have a multimeter, you can place the red lead on battery cable at starter and black lead to ground and start truck. If your getting good voltage to starter when cranking, then it is a bad starter.

check the ignition timing.. as above...if it 's off it will make it hard to start when it's hot.

--btw, in Reply mode I can't see what year you have.. forgot it already while typing and having lunch...lol I think it's an 83? based on what Links I have cited.. will look at this again later. Have to find cause of that ign module burning out.. most do fail over-time...

 

[rostheiceman]

yes this was happing before i replaced the starter and relay. and i should have mentioned the person who rebulit the motor rebuilt it 180 out and cables are all good

 

[miesk5]

yes this was happing before i replaced the starter and relay. and i should have mentioned the person who rebulit the motor rebuilt it 180 out and cables are all good

The distr is in 180 degress out?

 

[rostheiceman]

yes it is 180 out, why i dont know but thats how it works. know for a up date i just put in a new dizzy and still no spark. im lost i have replaced eveything thing twice and it still dosent work the only thing i have left is the computer so will that cause it not to spark

 

[miesk5]

yes it is 180 out, why i dont know but thats how it works. know for a up date i just put in a new dizzy and still no spark. im lost i have replaced eveything thing twice and it still dosent work the only thing i have left is the computer so will that cause it not to spark

ok, Have you taken distr cap off and have someone turn engine over to see if the rotor is turning (counter clockwise)? If not, pin may be broken..etc...

Call the person who rebuilt it and ask him or her why the distr is 180 out please.

 

[miesk5]

Hey!

Let's start over.... I see Seabronc is back now and I know he has a lot of info..much more than I have now on the Ign Sys for your year.

Do you have the part number ignition module? if so, post it here; as well as any pn for the distributor, etc. and any pics.

Here is what Seabronc posted earlier this year for; Wiring Diagram in an 83 does it look the same as your's? see third diagram from Left.

 

[rostheiceman]

ok so lets try this again i would like to know if a bad computer will cause no spark.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Well, yes, but it is NOT the ONLY thing that will cause no spark.

 

[rostheiceman]

thanx joe . i know its not the only thing but i have replaced every thing twice dist coil and mod as im shure you read i have power going to the coil and power coming from the coil but no spark i tried the test light and i know when you turn the truck over the neg on the coil should flash but mine does not it dims a little so the only thing i can think of is the computer. oh one more thing the tach jumps when i frist turn the key

 

[BroncoJoe19]

According to Haynes when you are checking the coil with the test light

attach a 12 volt DC test light between the coil TACH terminal and a good engine ground and cranck the engine and observe the test light.

symptom 1

symptom 2

symptom 3 if light stays OFF or is very dim, the probloem is either a voltage supply problem, short or open harness circuits, or electronics (no electronic swtiching). Electronic problems could be bad ICM, no PIP signal (PIP Sensor), or no SPOUT signal (EEC-IV PCM)> Check coil supply voltages first.

more...

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Check coil supply voltage...

unplug the ignition coil wire harness

turn the ignition key to RUN position

measure the voltage at the positive terminal (coil +)

VOLTAGE SHOULD BE 90% OF BATTERY VOLTAGE

if it is less repair the wiring between the coil and the ignition switch

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Check your grounds...

Here is a list of grounds for a '92 - '96 bronc

I took a look in my Haynes manual.

They list 10 separate grounds... A-J.

A. Starter mounting bolt

B. Right front of Engine compartment near the battery

C. Lower left front of engine

D. Right front of engine compartment on upper radiator support.

E. Left front of engine compartment Upper radiator support

F. Bottom of cowl panel

G. Rear of left fender apron

H. Behind bottom of right cowl panel

I. Left rear corner of cargo area near rear lamp assembly

J. Under center rear of vehicle on rear cross member.

Ground number and locations in 1990 Bronco EVTM

G100 LH side of Radiator support

G101 RH side of Radiator support

G102 RH side of Radiator support

G103 LH rear side of engine, near knock sensor

G104 LH rear side of engine compartment, near electronic engine control (EEC) module, on the left fender close to the firewall

G105 LH Side of engine

G106 RH fender apron, near voltage regulator

G107 RH fender apron, at starter relay

G108 RH fender apron, at voltage regulator

G109 RH fender apron

G201 LH rear side of I/P (looking at the diagram it is at the bottom of the driver's side dash assembly. Screwed to the bottom edge, just to the left of the steering column. It is the ground for the instrument cluster)

G202 Behind RH cowl panel

G203 RH rear side of radiator support

G204 On steering column

G205 Behind Center of I/P (Dash), near speed control amplifier

G400 LH side of cargo area, near rear light assembly

G401 Below LH side of cargo area, near crossmember

G500 Inside driver's door, near left door speaker

 

[rostheiceman]

ok so heres what ive found i have good power going to the ing mod good power going to the coil i have good power coming from the coil but light is dim when i try to start it but heres where things get funny i have only about 6v going to the dizzy form the mod is this right or did i get a bad mod? and will this cause the dim light out of the coil?

 

[rostheiceman]

oh and thanx for the ground list but mines a 82 and i dont have that many grounds