New to me 1990 with 5.0L won’t hardly run.

[squrl78]

Ok, so lets start out by saying I feel really dumb asking these questions since I went to school for auto/diesel about 17 years ago. I found out I liked it as a hobby but hated it as a job. I hated it so much that after a couple years when I quit, I wouldn’t even change my own oil. Now I have forgotten so much I can barely change the brakes. So now to the question at hand. I have a 90 302 with an AOD trans. I got it from a guy after it sat for a year or two. It has a new tank and fresh gas. The guy I got it from also said it has a new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. The y pipe is rusted out some place too. It will start and run like ***** while it’s cold, long enough to move it around the driveway. It puts out black smoke and runs @ around 1000 rpm. When it comes off of the high idle it drops to about 750 like I would expect, but still rich and putting out the black smoke. If you hit the throttle it will backfire through the intake and drop the rpm, sometimes until it dies. It also doesn’t like being put into gear. I pulled the plugs and they are back. The firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. I unplugged the IAC and it almost died, pulled the vacuum off the fuel pressure regulator without any change and no fuel in the vacuum hose, and the EGR is closed and the RPM will drop if I open it manually. I don’t have my tools anymore so I’m going to need to get some. I haven’t check the timing but it’s close enough to start, the fuel pressure, or compression. I do have an 87 with a 4.9 in it and I was wondering if the parts like the IAC, and fuel pressure regulator,… would work long enough to see if it will fix the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Welcome to the Zone;

Try a Self Test for Codes using this method by my pal, BroncoJoe19

The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.

turn off all accessories/lights, etc

Try to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Post Codes here;

If you can't do the KOER..it's ok for now

All those tests you did on the EGR, IAC, FPR look good of course.

One guess for now is a vacuum leak orManifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) 90 5.0 Ford Motorcraft PN is 9F479 (CX-2403) E7EF-9F479-A1A,A2A ; Surging, Rough idle, rich fuel condition, which may cause spark plug fouling,Detonation due to too much spark advance and a lean fuel ratio, loss of power and/or fuel economy due to ******** timing and an excessively rich fuel ratio, vacuum leak will reduce intake vacuum and cause the MAP sensor to indicate a higher than normal load on the engine. The computer will try to compensate by richening the fuel mixture and retarding timing -- which hurts fuel economy, performance and emissions.

another is; The air supply from the SMOG pump is controlled by the air by-pass valve, sometimes called a dump valve. During engine deceleration, the air by-pass valve opens, momentarily diverting the air supply through a silencer and into the atmosphere, thus preventing backfires within the exhaust system when deceleration supplies larger-than-normal amounts of unburned fuel to the exhaust ports. check valve is incorporated in the air inlet side of the air manifolds. Its purpose is to prevent exhaust gases from backing up into the Thermactor system. This valve is especially important in the event of drive belt failure and also during deceleration, when the air by-pass valve is dumping the air supply. The air manifolds and air supply tubes channel the air from the Thermactor air pump into the exhaust ports of each cylinder, thus completing the cycle of the Thermactor system.



Air Bypass (AIR BPV) Location pic in a 90 5.8 (should be same for your 5.0); "...Be advised that the ACV (Air Control Valve) is the TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) Valve and the AIR BPV is the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) Valve. The VRESER is the Vacuum Reservoir Can where the red & black vacuum lines plug into; On my 1990 ex-5.8L, the Yellow Vacuum Line goes from the TAD Solenoid (driver's side forward solenoid) to the TAD (Diverter) Valve located at the rear of the Intake Manifold. You have to climb up onto the engine to feel the Diverter Valve or remove the Intake Manifold. I'd rather climb up using plans, ala a scaffolding type set-up; maybe remove hood depending on circumstances such as me now, w/ backache..."



Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net

===============

For Part Swapping;

Look up the Ford Part Number in Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI);

Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP.

On-Line for Free at Ford.

Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list."

Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker).

Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover.

Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window

Source: by Ford @ http://www.motorcraftservice.com

One part that is listed is the VALVE ASSY., (Throttle Air By-Pass)Ford PN E9TZ 9F715-B, this is the Idle Air Control (IAC) (As you know, Ford likes to confuse us (ME).

Another is REGULATOR ASSY., (Fuel Charging Pressure) E7FZ 9C968-A it is the FPR

For parts ID and Interchange inco I use Ford Motorcraft site; http://www.fordparts.com

I tried the FPR but the Interchange Guide isn't working right now. It should list all year & models the part is used in. Here is the info listed: $107.84 depiction is http://www.fordparts.com/PartImage.ashx?filename=F4CZ9C968A-FRO&dw=150&dh=150&type=JPG

Another is ROCKAUTO @ http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

Part Name: Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator

Part Number: 9C968 (CM-4764)

1990 FORD BRONCO 5.0L 302cid V8 MFI (N) OHV : Fuel/Air : Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator

MOTORCRAFT Part # CM4764 {#F2LE9C968EA, F4CE9C968AA, F4CZ9C968A}

CLICK ON CM4764 for their BUYER'S GUIDE that does List all years & Models this part is used in (Notice it does Not show engine type though):

FORD AEROSTAR (1986 - 1994)

FORD BRONCO (1985 - 1993)

FORD COUNTRY SQUIRE (1987 - 1991)

FORD COUNTRY SQUIRE LX (1987 - 1991)

FORD CROWN VICTORIA (1989 - 1993)

FORD CROWN VICTORIA LX (1989 - 1993)

FORD CROWN VICTORIA POLICE INTERCEPTOR 1993

FORD CROWN VICTORIA S (1989 - 1993)

FORD CROWN VICTORIA TOURING SEDAN 1992

FORD E-150 ECONOLINE (1986 - 1993)

FORD E-150 ECONOLINE CLUB WAGON (1986 - 1993)

FORD E-150 ECONOLINE SUPER (1986 - 1991)

FORD E-250 ECONOLINE (1986 - 1993)

FORD E-250 ECONOLINE CLUB WAGON (1988 - 1991)

FORD E-250 ECONOLINE HD 1991

FORD E-250 ECONOLINE SUPER (1986 - 1993)

FORD E-350 ECONOLINE (1988 - 1993)

FORD E-350 ECONOLINE HD CLUB WAGON (1992 - 1993)

FORD E-350 ECONOLINE SUPER (1988 - 1993)

FORD E-350 ECONOLINE SUPER WAGON (1988 - 1993)

FORD ****** (1993 - 1996)

FORD ****** GL (1984 - 1987)

FORD ****** GLX 1983

FORD ****** GT (1983 - 1990)

FORD ****** L (1983 - 1984)

FORD ****** LX (1985 - 1996)

FORD ****** PONY (1987 - 1992)

FORD ****** SPORT (1993 - 1995)

FORD EXP (1983 - 1986)

FORD EXP LUXURY 1987

FORD EXP SPORTY 1987

FORD F-150 (1985 - 1993)

FORD F-150 LIGHTNING (1993 - 1994)

FORD F-150 SUPER CAB (1985 - 1993)

FORD F-250 (1985 - 1993)

FORD F-250 SUPER CAB (1988 - 1993)

FORD F-350 (1988 - 1993)

FORD F-350 SUPER CAB (1988 - 1993)

FORD LTD COUNTRY SQUIRE 1986

FORD LTD CROWN VICTORIA (1986 - 1988)

FORD LTD CROWN VICTORIA LX (1987 - 1988)

FORD LTD CROWN VICTORIA S (1987 - 1988)

FORD MUSTANG 1983

FORD MUSTANG COBRA 1993

FORD MUSTANG GT (1984 - 1993)

FORD MUSTANG L 1984

FORD MUSTANG LX (1986 - 1993)

FORD MUSTANG SVO (1984 - 1986)

FORD MUSTANG SVT COBRA R 1993

FORD PROBE LX (1990 - 1992)

FORD RANGER (1985 - 1993)

FORD RANGER SUPER (1986 - 1993)

FORD TAURUS 1986

FORD TAURUS GL (1987 - 1993)

FORD TAURUS L (1987 - 1992)

FORD TAURUS LX (1987 - 1993)

FORD TAURUS SHO 1989

FORD TEMPO GL (1992 - 1994)

FORD TEMPO GLS 1992

FORD TEMPO LX (1992 - 1994)

FORD THUNDERBIRD (1983 - 1992)

FORD THUNDERBIRD LX (1987 - 1993)

FORD THUNDERBIRD SC (1989 - 1993)

FORD THUNDERBIRD SPORT (1987 - 1988)

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL (1986 - 1990)

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL EXECUTIVE (1991 - 1994)

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL GIVENCHY 1987

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL SIGNATURE (1988 - 1994)

LINCOLN MARK VII (1986 - 1987)

LINCOLN MARK VII BILL BLASS (1987 - 1992)

LINCOLN MARK VII LSC (1987 - 1992)

LINCOLN MARK VIII (1993 - 1994)

LINCOLN TOWN CAR (1986 - 1990)

LINCOLN TOWN CAR CARTIER (1987 - 1994)

LINCOLN TOWN CAR EXECUTIVE (1991 - 1994)

LINCOLN TOWN CAR JACK NICKLAUS 1993

LINCOLN TOWN CAR SIGNATURE (1987 - 1994)

LINCOLN TOWN CAR SIGNATURE SE 1989

LINCOLN TOWN CAR TOURNAMENT EDITION 1994

MERCURY CAPRI (1983 - 1986)

MERCURY COLONY PARK (1987 - 1991)

MERCURY COUGAR (1984 - 1986)

MERCURY COUGAR LS (1987 - 1992)

MERCURY COUGAR XR-7 (1987 - 1993)

MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS (1986 - 1993)

MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS COLONY PARK 1986

MERCURY LN7 1983

MERCURY LYNX (1983 - 1987)

MERCURY LYNX LTS 1984

MERCURY LYNX RS 1984

MERCURY LYNX XR3 (1986 - 1987)

MERCURY SABLE (1986 - 1993)

MERCURY TOPAZ (1992 - 1994)

MERCURY TRACER (1991 - 1993)

MERCURY TRACER TRIO (1994 - 1996)

"Please refer to catalog for application details."

Next is to look up the 87 4.9 and see if it same PN.

It shows;

MOTORCRAFT Part # CM4763 {#F4TE9C968AA, F4TZ9C968A} FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

The differeince I believe is the Fuel Pressure; 49. goes up to 55PSI and 5.0 @ around 40PSI

Long drill, but that's the way I do it.

=======================

 

[squrl78]

I was not able to get the engine up to operating temp due to the running condition.

I got these codes:

31 PFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.

PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.

11 System pass!

45 DIS coil pack 3 circuit failure or coil 1 primary circuit failure.

Thermactor secondary air is misdirected.

33 EGR valve opening not detected.

Not sure what the 31 is, 45 I have a coil to try on it, and 33 is when I unpluged it.

I changed the coil and it ran almost good. No black smoke and a little backfiring in the exhaust. I put it in reverse and it almost died then recovered. Next I put it in park and slowly raised it up to about 1700 rpms. It missed a few times then acted like it slowly ran out of fuel. Now it will almost start but not quite. I also tried the old coil again without any change.I will also check out the other things you listed. Thanks

 

[miesk5]

yo,

ok; here it is order of what I think may help

DTC 31 or 32 Both KOEO & KOER; EVP sensor out of range EGR is sticking or EVP is bad, see my sites, Emission section; EGR for basic tests, w/hand vac pump, etc.

DTC 31 "... This code could be caused by several different factors. If the pintle position sensor (Ford calls it the EVP sensor) is shorted or open, you could have a code set. If the EGR valve becomes carboned up and does not seat fully, the EVP sensor gives a high reading and a code is set. If the diaphragm of the EGR valve is bad, then it, too, is flagged..." - MIESK5 NOTE: EVP is used on all years except for 95 5.8L California models & all 96, they use the DPFE Sensor instead of EGR Valve Position Sensor (EVP)

Source: by Harry G

Location pic in an 89 5.0 (part of his valve cover and oil pan gasket job) Source: by Waltman at SuperMotors.net;

Miesk5 Note EVP is light gray & attached to the top of the EGR Valve



-------

Operation & Testing; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor used exclusively by Ford, can be the cause of driveability problems without ever setting any trouble codes. The relationship between the EVP sensor and the EGR valve is important to understand. Either one being out of spec can cause similar symptoms. Understanding this relationship will help you to diagnose uncoded driveability problems like stumbles, hesitations, rough idles and stalling

Whenever the EGR valve allows exhaust to re-enter the intake manifold it displaces good burnable air/fuel. This cools the combustion but also reduces the power that the cylinders produce. Therefore, we must make sure that this doesn't happen at the wrong time. The wrong times are: ) During cold engine operation. 2) During engine idle. 3) During high power demands. EGR operation during any of these conditions will cause hesitations, rough idle or engine stalling

Testing & Operation; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve pintle. The EVP sensor converts the mechanical movement of the pintle into an electrical voltage signal which is relayed to the PCM. The EVP sensor is a linear potentiometer in which resistance varies with the EGR valve pintle movement.Voltage is fed to the EVP by the signal return circuit. As the EGR is opened the EVP directs more voltage to the EEC and less down the voltage reference circuit. The EVP sensor provides the PCM with information on EGR flow and EGR system failures. The EVP should read between 0.24 and 0.67volts at idle with a closed EGR valve..." read more

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35

PCM will not operate the EGR valve unless it sees: The engine warmed up to normal operating temperature. TPS at partial throttle. TPS not at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). MAP/MAF must be indicating light or moderate load. A certain amount of computer clock time has to be elapsed.

============

DTC 33 & 34 "...DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing.... To prevent the EGR valve from opening when the engine is cold, the vacuum line to the EGR valve may be connected to a parted vacuum switch or a computer-controlled solenoid. Vacuum is not allowed to pass to the valve until the engine is warm. EGR isn't needed when the engine is cold, only when it is warm and under load. Any of these codes could indicate a faulty EGR valve as well. as well as a problem in the ...vacuum solenoids' Miesk5 note; TAB & TAD; so repair those vac lines 1st..."

Source: by Larry C at aa1car

DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing; so EZiest & cheapest checks are to inspect & repair/replace repair any bad vac lines. for a <$ vac line test; I pull em off and use the straw sucking test; one finger over one end; includes EVP testing & Links

Source: by miesk5

Ford EGR systems "...DO NOT engage when: engine is cold; engine is at idle; engine is at WOT; At low ambient temps (water vapor from the exhaust can freeze on the throttle plate); The EVR is a "normally closed" solenoid, which means that when it is de-energized, the position of the disc allows for maximum venting to the atmosphere..."

Source: by rockledge.home.comcast.net

=======

DTC 45/95 Thermactor air system inoperative-right side: "...The code 45/95 is an Air Management fault. These particular codes are used for the Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD)/Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) valve system (Fig. 3). In following the diagnostic tree we were to first check for vacuum lines that could possibly be broken or disconnected. One line was found disconnected. We also discovered that this particular vacuum line got its source vacuum at the same place the MAP sensor did. This leak, we believed, was the cause of the erratic readings that set the MAP sensor code 72. At this point the codes were cleared and the emissions were checked. The emissions were lower, but not good enough. And a code 95 was still present. We continued with the diagnostic tree and determined that the diverter valve was not at fault. We entered the output state check and cycled both the TAB and TAD solenoids on/off. They both worked correctly. Finally, we supplied vacuum to the solenoid to make sure that the vacuum did not leak down. The TAD solenoid would not hold vacuum. It slowly bled off. We replaced the solenoid. We then performed a KOEO and KOER test. No codes were present and emissions looked excellent. HCs were averaging about 97 to 112 ppm, and the CO was down around .2%. We concluded that the emissions readings were being affected by the vacuum bleeding off of the TAD solenoid. This allowed vacuum to be applied to the diverter valve at the TAD portion continuously. This resulted in the air always being diverted to the manifold before the oxygen sensor. The oxygen sensor would read lean, because of the extra oxygen, and therefore the computer would enrich the mixture. This is why the vehicle failed emissions..."

Source: by tomco-inc @ https://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt25.pdf

==

For any tests that require a vacuum pump;

Vacuum Pump Build Plans, DIY; built for less than $20, we call it the "Cheap Little Sucker"

Source: by Jame R and Tim C at http://www.berkut13.com/sucker.htm from a freon compressor off of a beer keg cooler

Vacuum Pump Build Plans, DIY; convert a tire inflator-type air compressor into a vacuum pump

Source: by drcrash at http://www.instructables.com/id/convert-a-tire-inflator-type-air-compressor-into-a/

Vacuum Pump Build Plans, DIY; make a manual vacuum pump for under $20 by converting a bicycle pump

Source: by drcrash at http://www.instructables.com/id/make-a-manual-vacuum-pump-for-under-$20-by-convert/

 

[squrl78]

Thanks for the help with it. I got it to run halfway decent and the oil pressure is low and it has a very light knock in it. I’m probably going another route now.