New guy needs help!

[bigkaw815]

Hello from Colorado /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> I have been having a weird problem with my 1993 Bronco and could use some sage advice. It drives fine short distances, but during extended driving it will stutter and eventually stall. The only solution is to let it sit for at least a couple hours and it will drive like new again. Here are the facts:

1) KOEO test passed.

2) KOER test fails : 311 thermactor exhaust system failure. EGR getting good vacuum, crossover tube not rusted/broken, TAD/TAB getting good vacuum

Also, I know the stuttering is coming when there is a loud banging coming from the engine compartment. It sounds like someone hitting the firewall/fender/frame (not sure where it's coming from) with a hammer. Rate of sound is about once or twice every 30 seconds.

I'm going crazy trying to pinpoint this. Does anyone have any advice? My wife, friend and I got stranded yesterday driving to Denver for a concert. We made it finally with the help of some friends. When we returned, the truck started and drove home fine.

 

[Rons beast]

Welcome Big,

When you say, "extended driving", Do you mean highway driving? Long stints at highway speeds....then when you slow down the engine stalls?

I suspect the "banging" is the engine missing, and possibly the exhaust shaking enough to hit the frame.

I have encountered this when my EGR valve started sticking. Cleaning helped but the problem came back in about a month. New one fixed it for good, (or at least the last 3 years)

If your problem is that it runs good and just stutters and dies, while at highway speeds, I have encountered that cause to be 2 things.

Either the ignition module and / or pickup coil in the dist. Or the fuel pump relay overheats from an internal short, and shuts down.

When this happens again check if you have spark at cranking. That will lead you in the right direction.

Good Luck

 

[miesk5]

yo B,

Welcome!

Re; "...but during extended driving it will stutter and eventually stall..."

Let it idle and do some driving loops around home area until it stalls and will not run again. Then check for Codes before it cools down. Because this appears to be a bad Ignition Module or Hall Effect (also called the; Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) Signal, Stator, or RPM) (inside distr.)

I found a new, pretty good, except for some wiring colors and PCM pin numbers referenced that need to be vaildated for your year;

Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition

by easyautodiagnostics.com @ http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_ign_fender/fender_mounted_module_1.php

Skip to Spark at the Ignition Coil; He suggests a HEI Spark Tester, but since you know the Self Test drill and posted codes by KOEO & by KOER, do it your way.

Until then,

DTC 311 - & BACKFIRE

The control system can divert air injection UPstream (into the heads), DOWNstream (into the catalyst), or DUMP (to the atmosphere). This is assuming the air pump is actually delivering air to the system, and that the pipes, hoses, check valves, control valves, solenoids, and vacuum lines are all working. Clogged air injection tubes are common, as is rust-through. Believe it or not, a leaky vacuum reservoir (coffee can looking thing on the passenger side fender liner) can cause codes such as this; there simply might not be a strong enough vacuum to control the valves properly.

by SigEpBlue

Thermactor air system inoperable. "...The computer determined that for some reason the fresh air injection from the Thermactor system was not present. There are several components that make up this system. The initial component is the smog pump. The first checks I would make are the hoses and plumbing from the smog pump back to the diverter valve (behind the pass. cylinder head) and then on to the crossover pipe at the back of the heads and down to the catalytic converter. The check valves that are at the center of the cross over pipe and the top of the metal tube from the cat are often the culprits as they can and do snap in half as the get old. If the plumbing looks to be in good order we can discuss the slightly more complicated aspects of the system. The diverter valve also has two vacuum lines running to it. Make certain they are in place and intact. (Computer needs to be able to control the flow of fresh air by the Thermactor system)..."

Source: by greystreak92

During engine deceleration, the air by-pass valve opens, momentarily diverting the air supply through a silencer and into the atmosphere, thus preventing backfires within the exhaust system when deceleration supplies larger-than-normal amounts of unburned fuel to the exhaust ports

DTC 311 - Thermactor air system inoperable; "...because of the possibility that (following is an excerpt of a condensed discussion of how a bad TAB/TAD/vac line DTC 311 ... and so-on problem could cause the rich aroma; Your smog pump... blows fresh clean air up through a hose to the diverter valve. The solenoid next to the diverter valve which has a .... pink little hose plugged into ... it, creates a vacuum (sucking) that opens up the valve, and allows the fresh air to pass through the valve and make it's way to the exhaust, where the cats burn the unburnt gas more efficiently since this all happens during "open loop mode". Open loop mode happens when you turn on your car and it revs at 1200rpms for the first 15-20 seconds. During this process, your ECU feeds more gas to the engine to warm up the car quickly before driving. (also known as choke on older cars). During this open loop procedure, the extra unburnt gasoline will usually cause your exhaust to smell very rich, and the air that this diverter valve sends to the cats, causes it to burn the extra unburnt gas more efficiently like I mentioned above...thus eliminating the rich gasoline smell from..."

Source: by 006 (Speedconcepts) via miesk5

Visually inspect Air Pump for broken or loose Air Pump Belt.

"Secondary Air Injection system consists of a belt-driven Air Pump, single or dual AIR Diverter valve(s), an AIR Bypass valve, and AIR Bypass solenoids, air silencer/filter, Powertrain Control Module and connecting wires and vacuum hoses. The Belt-Driven Secondary Air Injection system provides either upstream/bypass air or upstream/downstream/bypass air. The number of these system configurations vary significantly with AIR Bypass and AIR Diverter valve combinations (Figure 179).



The 2ndry air system is known to fail in a wide variety of ways. The check valves that prevent hot exhaust from entering the rubber hoses age, rust, leak, & crack open melting the plastic TAB & TAD valves, creating exhaust leaks that can damage other components, raising exhaust oxygen levels (setting lean codes or rich adaptive limit codes), and making rattling noises. The hard steel tubing between the exhaust & the check valve can rust or crack (especially the infamous "crossover tube" on the backs of V8 heads). The vacuum controls leak (including the "coffee can" reservoir on the R wheelwell), get misrouted during other repairs, or the diaphragms rupture. The electronics that control the vacuum controls can fail electrically or mechanically, or the wires can be damaged. But all of these failures are either A) relatively cheap & easy to repair, or B) cheap & easy to prevent with normal inspection & maintenance."

by Ford via Steve83 @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/589993 read more

 

[bigkaw815]

Hey All, Thanks for all your help. This sight is awesome because of dedicated people such as yourselves. Replicating the problem is going to be difficult, as it hasn't happened (before the other day) for about a year now. I know it has to be hot and I have to be driving consistently fast. Heat seems to be the real predictor. I will try to do some major loops around here tomorrow and try to pull codes. Thanks again for your help. I'll report the findings soon.

 

[bigkaw815]

Hello Again,

I did the seafoam vacuum treatment, cleaned the EGR valve, and replaced IAC sensor. No codes after that! However, today the truck died again after my wife driving it on the highway (100+ degree temp outside). I took my code reader when I rescued her and pulled the following codes:

KOEO: 628 excessive converter clutch slippage

KOER: 632 (my fault for not actuating the O/D tranny switch at the right time)After I ran the tests, the truck seemed stable, so I drove it home with no problems.

Could this 628 code be the source of my problem?

Thanks in advance for all your help. This problem is very enigmatic!

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Great DIY work so far!

DTC 628 is a tough one and doesn't seem to be related to a complete shut down w/heat.

As Ron advised; it is a Ford situation w/hall effect (and or Ign. Module) and heat

Try the self test again so you don't have to do all this testing for 628 and worry about a TC $

MARCH 2, 1998

LIGHT TRUCK:

1989-97 F SUPER DUTY, F-250 HD, F-350

1989-98 ECONOLINE, F-150, F-250 LD

1990-96 BRONCO

1997-98 EXPEDITION

1998 NAVIGATOR

This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to correct the vehicles listed.

ISSUE:

Some vehicles may exhibit a flashing Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) 62, 628, and/or 1728 may be stored in memory. These DTCs can be set by any internal transmission element slippage or potentially by torque converter slippage.

ACTION:

Refer to the following text when servicing these codes.

NOTE:

WHEN SERVICING A VEHICLE WITH A FLASHING TCIL WITH DTCS 62, 628 AND/OR 1728, DO NOT REPLACE THE TORQUE CONVERTER UNLESS PROPER DIAGNOSIS HAS PROVEN THE TORQUE CONVERTER TO BE THE CAUSE.

Always verify the customer concern. Proper diagnosis for DTCs 62, 628 and/or 1728 may require talking to the customer to find out if there were any other symptoms associated with the TCIL flashing, (i.e., shift concerns, erratic/early/late, proper torque converter operation, etc.), prior to noticing the TCIL flashing.

Prior to transmission repairs for DTCs 62, 628 and/or 1728 or investigating other causes, repair all non-related transmission DTCs first, then repair all other transmission DTCs other than 62, 628 and/or 1728.

Some of the other causes that may result in DTCs 62, 628 and/or 1728 are as follows:

Aftermarket modifications (i.e., performance enhancers, electrical modifications, etc.)

Missing shifts (some/all)

Transmission fluid leakage (internal and/or external)

Erratic shift timing

Valves, springs or retainers in the main control/accumulator body not assembled correctly, binding or sticking

Check balls missing and/or mislocated. Damaged, unable to seal/seat properly

Higher or lower than normal line pressure

Transmission fluid restrictions and/or level

Erratic/inoperative vehicle speed and/or rpm

Poor engine performance concerns

Any vehicle system concerns that could cause the strategy to detect a perceived internal slippage or change in the expected rpm of internal transmission rotating components may cause DTCs 62, 628 and/or 1728 to set.

NOTE:

ONCE DTCs 62, 628 AND/OR 1728 SET, OTHER TRANSMISSION FUNCTIONAL DTCs MAY NOT SET.

Solenoid, Coast Clutch Solenoid (CCS) 7M107 in a 96 from 1996 All F-Series and Bronco with E4OD Automatic Transmission Workshop Manual; "...The Coast Clutch Solenoid provides coast clutch control by shifting the coast clutch shift valve. The solenoid is activated by pressing the transmission control switch or by selecting the 1 or 2 range with the transmission gearshift selector lever. In manual 1 and 2, the coast clutch is controlled by the solenoid and also hydraulically as a fail-safe to ensure engine braking. In reverse, the coast clutch is controlled hydraulically and the solenoid is not on. NOTE: On certain applications, the coast clutch is controlled by the PCM in the overdrive position (TCS OFF) in gears 1, 2, and 3. Symptoms: Failed on — Third gear engine braking with (D) range selected. Failed off — No third gear engine braking in overdrive cancel. DTC 626,* 628,** 643,* 652,* P0741,** P0743,* P1754.* (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)..."

Source: by Ford

Solenoid Body Connector Location; "...Disconnect, clean clean clean the **** out of the socket and connector with electrical contact cleaning spray, and re-apply dielectric silicone grease to the solenoid pack connector

It's on the passenger side of the transmission. You'll need to remove a small heat shield (two bolts) next to the catalytic converter, and probably clean away a TON of gunk before yanking it. Ford wasn't too bright in designing the placement of this connector. The connector has a single press-in tab latching it in place, and there's only one locking tab on it technically. But if you look at the bottom of the picture, there's one of those Ford-style mechanisms that should (repeat should) separate upon pulling the connector. You may find it helpful to pinch both sides of the connector while pulling on the harness (it won't hurt the connector). The corrosion can really be a bitch to pull against. If you still can't pull it off, you may find it beneficial to use a flat-blade screwdriver and apply some leverage to it from underneath. Make sure you've got plenty of light under there to see all..."

DTC 628; "...I did things in a stupid-simple way when the 628 came up: I tapped into the TCC line, and attached a voltmeter between that line and chassis ground. While driving, I could watch for it to go between zero volts (meaning the PCM was commanding the converter to lock) and battery voltage (meaning the converter should be unlocked). It sounds counterintuitive at first, but that's a matter of perspective, I suppose. Anyhow, if you see the PCM trying to lock the TCC and nothing happens to the engine speed, or if you can give it a little more throttle and the engine speed rises while it's commanded to lock, then you're assured a problem exists. If there was an electrical problem, then the PCM should also be giving you a code 627 as well. The 628 indicates excessive converter slippage. At a steady cruise, say your 60 mph, if you tap the brake the engine speed should rise slightly, and then come back down as the TCC re-engages. This condition can be intermittent, and it's more of a mechanical problem than an electrical one. The fix for a slipping TCC is to replace the torque converter and stator shaft seal, nothing more. You'd be out a little over a hundred bucks probably, and a few hours' labor, if you get one through a reputable transmission shop. I wouldn't buy anything but an OE-type replacement. You may even be able to get a Motorcraft/Ford replacement through a local dealership, but I've no clue how much their price would be..."

Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve)

=======

Transmission Solenoids and Sensors Resistance Tests

EPC Solenoid

Set ohmmeter to 100-200 ohm range.

Connect negative lead of ohmmeter to the electronic pressure control (EPC) jack.

Connect positive lead of ohmmeter to the vehicle power (VPWR) jack.

Record resistance.

Refer to the following charts for values.

If out of specification, refer to «Pinpoint Test E» in this Section.

Shift Solenoid 1, Shift Solenoid 2, Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, Coast Clutch Solenoid

Set ohmmeter to 100-200 ohm range.

Connect positive lead of ohmmeter to the appropriate vehicle power (VPWR) jack for the solenoid being tested.

Connect negative lead of the ohmmeter to the appropriate solenoid (shift solenoid 1 [sS1], shift solenoid 2 [sS2], torque converter solenoid [TCC], coast clutch solenoid [CCC]) jack and record resistance.

Refer to following charts for values.

If out of specification, refer to Pinpoint Test A (Shift Solenoid 1, Shift Solenoid 2); Pinpoint Test C (Torque Converter Solenoid), Pinpoint Test G (Coast Clutch Solenoid).

Solenoid Body Connector Pin-Out Diagram

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/Trans_harness.gif

Transmission Application E4OD:

Solenoid Resistance (Ohms)

Shift Solenoid 1 : 20-30

Shift Solenoid 2 : 20-30

Torque Converter Solenoid : 20-30

Coast Clutch Solenoid : 20-30

Electronic Pressure Control : 4.0-6.5

 

[bigkaw815]

Update: Checked my coolant this weekend and it was very rusty. Begain flushing, realized all tubes were clogged with rusty crud. I blew them out (took a long time), removed and replaced the thermo, stuck hose in until clean came out, then replaced all hoses and fluid. I think this could be part of the problem at least... Got a new ICM since they were cheap. Perhaps now it's fixed?

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Hopefully!

Ever do those tests on the Ign sys?